Rust removal

[Gary B.]

[Frank D.]

Re: Rust removal

I agree...anybody that's dealt with caustic stuff like Ospho will embrace EvapoRust. The only issue is that the original solution is meant to "dip" parts in to soak, there is an EvapoRust gel for vertical and hard-to-reach surfaces but it cones in a smaller volume and isn't cheap.

[Ed S.]

Re: Rust removal

I agree...anybody that's dealt with caustic stuff like Ospho will embrace EvapoRust. The only issue is that the original solution is meant to "dip" parts in to soak, there is an EvapoRust gel for vertical and hard-to-reach surfaces but it cones in a smaller volume and isn't cheap.

For larger parts that are too large to be submerged overnight I wrapped them in paper towels or old terry-cloth rags that were dripping with Evapo-Rust. Then, I wrapped the paper towels in a clear plastic food wrap (Saran Wrap) and let it sit overnight. The clear plastic wrap prevents the solution from evaporating. This would probably work on vertical surfaces as well.

[Floyd B.]

Re: Rust removal

FWIW, I use cosmoline as a preservative / rust inhibitor. I don't know if the General ever used it but it has been around for more than a hundred years and used by the military to coat and preserve just about anything metal.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cosmoline

https://www.cosmolinedirect.com/

[Patrick H.]

Re: Rust removal

Patrick, do you prefer the 400 over the 350? If so, just curious as to why. I have been using the 350 to clean things up and leave it on for storage . If 400 is better than maybe I should switch. Thanks

Each has their purpose.

I use the 350 as well on chassis parts to maintain a "less rusty" look.
The 400 is thicker, and closer to what was on the springs originally.
I think that Cosmolene is too thick.

While you can spray them on, I often brush them on or use large swabs to apply.

[Mark E.]

Re: Rust removal

For larger parts that are too large to be submerged overnight I wrapped them in paper towels or old terry-cloth rags that were dripping with Evapo-Rust. Then, I wrapped the paper towels in a clear plastic food wrap (Saran Wrap) and let it sit overnight. The clear plastic wrap prevents the solution from evaporating. This would probably work on vertical surfaces as well.

What a great tip. I use the gel for large parts or parts on the car. But I like this idea.

Also, for plated metal, be careful how long EvapoRust is applied.

Not long enough ==> Still rusty
Too long ==> Plating removed
Just right ==> Rust gone, plating intact

[Michael G.]

Re: Rust removal

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The finished springs

Evapo Rust did a great job, with minimal work… I also had set of springs that I had blasted, with nowhere near the the clean, rust-free result obtained with the Evapo Rust.

There are coatings available that would last essentially forever on these, with no rust, but I opted to to mimic the original look, rather than worry too much about corrosion on a car that will likely not be driven in the rain. (It’s a C2 convertible, so it rains inside the car during a storm - with the top up). My coating does protect them from exposure to water spray, and is flexible, but I’m not absolutely sure of its long-term durability on a spring. Wish me luck.

[Gary B.]

Re: Rust removal

Mark,

The Caswell Plating website, on their EvapoRust page, says:


In my experience with using EvapoRust, if a zinc-plated fastener shows an obvious rust bloom and is a candidate for soaking in EvapoRust, then the zinc plating is no longer sufficiently or uniformly intact and the item likely needs to be stripped and replated in order to fully restore it.

Gary

[Brian M.]

Re: Rust removal

Very nice.

[Floyd B.]

Re: Rust removal

Evapo-Rust (and other similar products) will remove ANY and ALL sacrificial coating on the metal part. It's great for removing rust from parts that should have a natural finish or stripping any existing/remaining coating in preparation for re-coating but you don't want to use it if want to keep any existing plating that remains.