1967 Body Lift for Chassis & Frame Restoration

[Richard M.]

Re: 1967 Body Lift for Chassis & Frame Restoration

Rich, thanks for posting all of the great pictures and information. I am in the process of restoring my 67 roadster. I also had a broken left gusset, which led to a frame off instead of just getting the car road worthy and drivable.I had the frame blasted an they replaced the gusset for me. The crossmember fits well and it seems to be the right height. The owner of the blasting company said that I had one of the best Corvette frames that he had ever seen and all of the steel is solid except for the left rear body mount, which is rusted just like the one that you replaced. I was originally going to try to repair it with a large washer, but now I may be rethinking this. Will you have to adjust the body shims as a result of the replacements? Looking forward to more helpful photos and information. Thanks again.
Tom

Hi Tom, Glad the pictorial helps.

When you replace it, just take reference measurements to get the replacement in the same position. However, the shim count may change anyways due to variations in the body placement back on the frame. In particular, on the convertible, the door gap at the top on each side will most often determine the shim count. It's trial and error as you tighten the mount bolt also.

Here's an example of another '67 convertible. It had a large gap at the door top to the rear quarter. Additional shims had to be added to get it aligned better.

This was the gap at the top of the door.
P2230009.jpg

#4 deteriorated and sagged the rear quarter, bolt seized, cage & nut rusted and replaced. (this was needed both sides) I tapped the steel undercar body mount to 10-24 as I did not have the body removed to replace it using original style rivets.
P2230001.jpgP2230002.jpgP2200249.JPGP2240023.jpgP2240024.jpg


By placing temporary shims I was able to close the gap.
P2230012.jpg

New vs old
P2230016.jpgP2230017.jpg

Final shims and new mount
p2240026.jpg

Result
P2230013.jpgP4030016.jpg

[Richard M.]

Re: 1967 Body Lift for Chassis & Frame Restoration

Update.....

Prepped, cleaned, weld-thru primed, and internal frame coated the end cap cavities and welded both end caps to the frame rails. I had to make a few filler repairs of the rust through on the DS also.

This concludes the frame repairs. Full internal coating next up and then the PPG DP90L epoxy black goes on. I also received the rebuilt trailing arms, and Gary Ramadei has the steering box rebuild underway as I write this(so-to-speak). He's sending me pictures of his process along the way and he sure is meticulous and a great guy to work with. I'll post some pics of that in a later update. I am prepping the rear differential for shipment to him for rebuild as well, as soon as I get some cycles to get a crate made up for shipping.

Here's the end cap work. Remember the "before"?
P1300001.jpgP1300006.jpgP1300013.jpgP1300014.jpgP1300015.jpg

Here's the "after". Also "Holly" my new shop helper girl. We got her Christmas Eve from a shelter at 8 months old. She's a sweetheart.
P3160001.jpgP3160002.jpgP3160003.jpgP3160004.jpgP3160005.jpgP3160006.jpgP3160007.jpgP3160008.jpgP3160009.jpgP3160010.jpgP3160011.jpgP3160012.jpgP3160013.jpgP3160014.jpgP3160015.jpgP3160016.jpgP3160017.jpgP3160018.jpgP3160019.jpgP3160020.jpgP3160021.jpgP3160022.jpgP3160023.jpgp3160024.jpgP3160025.jpgp3160026.jpgP3160027.jpgP3160028.jpg

===

[Richard M.]

Re: 1967 Body Lift for Chassis & Frame Restoration

Gary is done with the steering box.

It was pretty nasty inside and appeared to be full of metal pieces. It made jerky crunching sounds when it was on the car with the steering column disconnected.

Before shipping it to him.....

P3040001.jpgP3040002.jpgP3040003.jpgP3040004.jpg

Some of Gary's pics that he sent me during his rebuild/restoration process. He is very meticulous about his work.

Opened up and looking in dire need or repair.
cover off.jpglash bolt.jpgnut off.jpgorig cover bushing.jpgorign gears (2).jpgorign gears (3).jpg

orign gears (4).jpgremove cover bushing.jpgremove gears (1).jpgremove gears (2).jpg

In process....Beadblast and clean, POR-15'd, rebuild, lashes set, then finish painted.
blasted (1).jpgblasted (2).jpgblasted (3).jpgblasted (5).jpgPOR15 base coat (2).jpg

Final Prep (2).jpgFinal Prep (3).jpgFinal Prep (4).jpgFinal Prep (5).jpgfit custom bushings (3).jpgfit custom bushings (4).jpg

fit custom bushings (5).jpgnew end bearings.jpgnew gears (1).jpgnew gears (2).jpgpolish ball screw.jpgset final preload (1).jpgset final preload (2).jpgset final preload (3).jpgLash bolt & nut treat with RPM (1).jpgLash bolt & nut treat with RPM (2).jpgLash bolt & nut treat with RPM (3).jpg


Completed. Gary is shipping it out to me today.
Finished (1).jpgFinished (2).jpgFinished (3).jpgFinished (4).jpgFinished (5).jpg

===

[Richard M.]

Re: 1967 Body Lift for Chassis & Frame Restoration

No pictures today, but I have a question. Yesterday I prepped the frame for the Eastwood internal frame coating. I used the tractor to raise it so I could get access underneath and use the air gun to blow out and media and loose particles.

I taped every hole on the frame. I'll be using a wand to apply the paint, un-taping appropriate holes where needed to get each internal section.

How many holes did I tape off ????

For the Poll, go to this Thread....
https://www.forums.ncrs.org/showthre...rame-are-there

[Richard M.]

Re: 1967 Body Lift for Chassis & Frame Restoration

No guesses on the hole count?

Update...

Internal frame coating applied. The gun I used came with a spray wand to reach deep inside the channels. I moved around the frame and pulled the tape back from the large holes and inserted the wand to apply the paint, slowly pulling back to the entry point, then back 2 more times. Each channel got plenty of coverage.

The Eastwood product is quite thick so I reduced it with thinner about 30%. It sprayed much easier with better coverage. One quart thinned out a bit was just enough for this frame.

A messy job but worked to protect the frame internal channels very well. The product soaks into any rust and encapsulated it. The green is a bit of a contrast to the black, so now I'm thinking if I should leave the tape on all of the (#) of holes and use the black DP 90 epoxy primer over it using the same spray wand process. I'm gonna sleep on that idea, but I'm anal so I know what the answer may be. I just want to check in with Eastwood to verify that their product can be re-coated.

Rich

P3210001.jpgP3210002.jpgP3210003.jpgP3210004.jpgP3210005.jpgP3210006.jpgP3210007.jpgP3210008.jpgP3210009.jpgP3210010.jpgP3210011.jpgP3210012.jpgP3210013.jpgP3210014.jpgP3210015.jpgP3210016.jpgP3210017.jpgP3210018.jpgP3210019.jpgP3210020.jpg

[Robert B.]

Re: 1967 Body Lift for Chassis & Frame Restoration

Rich, after viewing the pic's of the frame, thus substantiates our decision to go ahead with the frame off...scary stuff! Re steering box, good call to have Gary restore it, as I could feel something just not right with steering, he did a nice job. The pictures save a thousand words...keep it up! Thx - Rbert

[Tom K.]

Re: 1967 Body Lift for Chassis & Frame Restoration

Rich, Thanks for the new pictures. I am getting ready to spray my frame with the spray can version of that and I hope that I can come up with close to the same results that you got from thinning and applying with a gun. Since my frame is already painted, it sounds like I will have to do some touch up work. I knew that I would have to mask all of the holes and open up one at a time. Does the frame coating set up hard enough not to drip out later? I did not apply it first because I did not want it to drip out if it did not set up.
Tom

[Richard M.]

Re: 1967 Body Lift for Chassis & Frame Restoration

Rich, Thanks for the new pictures. I am getting ready to spray my frame with the spray can version of that and I hope that I can come up with close to the same results that you got from thinning and applying with a gun. Since my frame is already painted, it sounds like I will have to do some touch up work. I knew that I would have to mask all of the holes and open up one at a time. Does the frame coating set up hard enough not to drip out later? I did not apply it first because I did not want it to drip out if it did not set up.
Tom

Tom, I hope it's thinner than my quart size can contents. It came out pretty thick, which is why I thinned it out to use with this gun.

It was drippy for sure, so tape it off very well, and also in the corners of the crossmembers and the gusset welds which may not be fully closed up.

Another option....go to a HD or Lowe's and get a roll of that strettchy shrink wrap/plastic wrap and wrap the entire frame. That is if the body is off the frame.

Rich

[Richard M.]

Re: 1967 Body Lift for Chassis & Frame Restoration

Today I used the PPG DP90LF epoxy coating on the inside of the frame. I used the same gun and wand that I used for the Eastwood coating. I loaded it up quite heavily.

The DP90 is a catalyst based product, mixed at a 2 to 1 ratio. A 3M high efficiency breathing mask was used during the task. Because of it's thickness, I had to add Acetoine as a thinner to help it through the wand. I also added a portion of DX 685 flattening agent to tone down the gloss. The DP401 catalyst requires a 30 minute "kickoff" time before spraying. This gave me some time to check and prep the differential crossmember for internal spraying and masking off the rubber bushings. I also prepared a few sprayout panels to check my flattener ratio.

This covered all previous internal coating and put a additional black epoxy layer of protection inside the frame for the future.

Rich
P3240001.jpgP3240002.jpgP3240003.jpg

[Richard M.]

Re: 1967 Body Lift for Chassis & Frame Restoration

DP90 Epoxy Black dried overnight. I pulled all of the tape from the holes just a short while ago.

..............196.........................

P3250001.jpgP3250002.jpgP3250003.jpgP3250004.jpgP3250005.jpgP3250006.jpg


I also setup my JD for a frame roll after paint of the top sections. I plan to paint the top first, then roll over to paint the bottom. Then after curing, begin assembly of the chassis.

Rich

[Richard M.]

Re: 1967 Body Lift for Chassis & Frame Restoration

Update......

I used the "All Metal" filler product on a dozen or so areas of the frame to fill in some imperfections before paint. These areas were simply some shallow pitted spots that the DP90 probably wouldn't cover so I wanted to smooth them out.

The product was a silver color and heavily filled with aluminum. It cures to a silvery gray color, just like the bare steel. It cures in a short time, but it was a bit tough to sand. I spent most of the day doing this finish work but pleased with the results. I marked the repair areas with tape so I could see where they were. The product cures quickly so I didn't want to waste time finding them.

Here are a few sample areas that I resurfaced. You can see the shadows of the imperfections.

P3250007.jpgP3250008.jpgP3250009.jpgP3250010.jpg

The hardener is a special type only for this product. About 12-15 drops per golfball size filler amount. I made about six batches altogether during the process.
P3250013.jpg

Applied filler, apx 15 minute cure, then sanded using my DA loaded with 80 grit, then hand finished with 180 grit.
P3250014.jpgP3250021.jpgP3250022.jpgP3250023.jpg

Late afternoon after all areas resurfaced and prepped, I was ready for the DP90 Black. I used a HVLP gun with a 2.0 tip. The mix ratio(2:1) with flattening agent for a proper semi-gloss/slightly satin finish was:

16 oz DP 90
8 oz DP catalyst
1 oz flattener

(I learned this ratio years ago while helping my good friend Chuck McSheehy with his Top Flight '65 Coupe and Convertible restorations. Chuck and I would always help each other and had so much fun working together. Here are a few photos of his '65 convertible after we put the chassis back together, and a few from Kissimmee a few years ago. He no longer owns the car.
PC120058.jpgPC120061.jpgPC120066.jpgPC120067.jpgPC120068.jpgPC120069.jpgPC120070.jpgP1280004.jpgP1280005.jpgP1280015.jpgP1280016.jpgP1280017.jpgP1280018.jpg

I owe so much to my recently deceased Corvette Pal that I had to add this. All day yesterday I couldn't get him off my mind while working on and painting this frame. I miss you Chuckie!)

Sorry, back to the '67......
Because this is a epoxy based catalyst system, I only mixed what I would use immediately. This gave me enough product and time to use 2 fill cups in my gun per mix.

The top and sides of the frame are now back to black. I plan on rolling it over today to resurface any areas "bottom-side", then apply the black to both the bottom, and after a scuff up of the sides, to do a complete re-cover of those areas. I had a few drips/sags when I first started on the sides so I'll recover the entire horizontal area again. This will also add another several coats of protection for the future.

P3250025.jpgP3250026.jpgP3250027.jpgP3250028.jpgP3250029.jpgP3250030.jpgP3250031.jpgP3250032.jpgP3250034.jpgP3250035.jpg

More to come,
Rich

[Richard M.]

Re: 1967 Body Lift for Chassis & Frame Restoration

Today I rolled the frame...
P3260001.jpgP3260002.jpg

After removing the tape covering the holes, I had to clean them of the leftover paint. BTW, I found one other under the rear body mount, and 4 more on the differential crossmember that I forgot about, so the total was reall 202 holes.
P3260003.jpgP3260004.jpgP3260005.jpgP3260006.jpg

Now came the task of preparing the metal with the All-Metal filler to cover some of the imperfections, mostly on the drivers side and rear areas of the frame.
P3260007.jpgP3260008.jpgP3260009.jpgP3260010.jpgP3260011.jpg

Prior years had shown some dents and dings in the frame. I wire-wheeled and 3m Scotchbrite disk'd the entire lower frame. The #2 crossmember had a sizable ding. And the front crossmember had signs of the infamous floor jack pad.

I decided to use my puller, using a bolt threaded into a adapter to the end of the tool. A oversize washer helped keep it in position. I was able to pull it to near original position.
Before.....
P3260012.jpgP3260013.jpg

P3260014.jpgP3260015.jpgP3260016.jpgP3260017.jpg

After....
P3260018.jpg

Unfortunately, my can of All-Metal filler was no good halfway down into the can. A trip to my supplier for a warranty replacement can was in order and the new can was fine. A bit of "bodywork" commenced, but the rains came in and I had to call it a day.
P3260019.jpgP3260020.jpgP3260021.jpgP3260022.jpgP3260023.jpgP3260024.jpgP3260025.jpgP3260026.jpg

--

[Richard M.]

Re: 1967 Body Lift for Chassis & Frame Restoration

Yesterday I completed the bottom side frame "visual" repairs. This required a substantial amount of "all-metal" filler prep and repair work. There were about 20 areas over 6" long that needed attention. Some areas had slight to moderate pitting that I felt that the paint wouldn't cover, so I felt it best to clean up those areas well. Most pitted areas were from the midpoint of the frame rearward, and mostly on the driver's side. The entire area of the frame form the differential area rearward needed attention.

There were also several "dents" and "dings" in the frame along the main crossmember and other areas of the frame. Structurally they were fine, but it certainly had some battle scars from days gone by.

Here is the main crossmember "before". As you can see it must have hit something hard in the past. The heavy gauge steel is too difficult to pull here, so I opted for filling and re-finishing.
P3260010.jpgP3260011.jpg

Here it is after mult-fill, sand, re-fill, sand, dress, etc.
P3280038.jpgP3280039.jpg



Here is the front crossmember before.
P3260012.jpgP3260013.jpg

Here it is after using my slide hammer puller(pics in previous post) and refinishing. I also had to fill some pits on either side of center alongside the suspension control arm support brackets. This entire section took some effort to improve it's appearance. It was tricky to reform the arc of the member while keeping the center hole looking normal. After initial prime I may have to dress it up a bit more. After this work, I'm hoping no one uses a floor jack there ever again. Maybe I'll stencil a sign there facing forward......"NO JACK HERE".
P3280040.jpg

Here are the rest of the areas that were prepped, filled, sanded and finished. I used every air sander in my cabinet for this work, DA, 18" flat sander, Jitterbug, and hand block sanders. The "All Metal" filler hardens like metal, tough to sand, and even smells like metal when sanding.(when I took my respirator off of course)
P3280034.jpgP3280035.jpgP3280036.jpgP3280037.jpgP3280041.jpgP3280042.jpgP3280043.jpgP3280044.jpgP3280045.jpgP3280046.jpgP3280047.jpg

Paint up next.....

Rich

[Gene M.]

Re: 1967 Body Lift for Chassis & Frame Restoration

Rich,
Are you not a bit concerned about some of the dark looking pits not holding up in the long term? Filler over oxidation is not known to be long term. A fine glass beading or acid might be more successful at getting it all out. It is still in my mind that aluminum (in the filler) and steel do not get along. Maybe with it all sealed up in epoxy it will be fine......... Finished frame looks good.

[Richard M.]

Re: 1967 Body Lift for Chassis & Frame Restoration

Rich,
Are you not a bit concerned about some of the dark looking pits not holding up in the long term? Filler over oxidation is not known to be long term. A fine glass beading or acid might be more successful at getting it all out. It is still in my mind that aluminum (in the filler) and steel do not get along. Maybe with it all sealed up in epoxy it will be fine......... Finished frame looks good.

Gene, Yes i was concerned. So I also used a air-drill die grinder with a wire brush on all of those areas to get them deep cleaned. Actually, I air-powered the entire bottom frame surfaces and sanded with my air-file & DA using 80/180 grit as well. I feel the stronger metal based filler with aluminum will seal it all under the epoxy paint product. This better than just a Bondo polyester based product.

Certainly time will tell, but I had to do something with the pitted areas.

Rich
p.s. final paint today.....