1967 Body Lift for Chassis & Frame Restoration

[Gene M.]

Re: 1967 Body Lift for Chassis & Frame Restoration

Rich,
Agree Bondo polyester would not be a good choice. Aluminum and steel are on opposite ends as far as "getting along". That my reason for suggestion of Devcon with stainless particles. A more neutral with steel selection. Sealing it all under the epoxy paint should help keep it all impervious.

[Richard M.]

Re: 1967 Body Lift for Chassis & Frame Restoration

Frame paint complete.

Before.......

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After.......
(late day lighting shadowed and sunny in some different shots)
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I used about 3/4 gallon of DP90 total on this frame, including the recoat of DP90 black over the Eastwood green internally with the wand gun.

After a 30 minute cure(PPG spec) between coats, I applied 3 coats on the entire bottom area and a recoat of 2 coats on sides. A recoat of previous DP90 can be performed within one week, and since those areas were done 3 days ago I was well within their recomendation. Total 3 coats on the entire frame. I am pleased with the results, albeit a few areas that need touchup due to a bit of orange peel. The rear 1/3 of the frame originally was the worst. That area now looks very good with hardly any evidence of pitting. Hours of prep work yielded a nice appearance after paint.

I will let the paint cure for several days before I roll it over and prepare for reassembly. I've acquired the proper stencils with frame part number data and build date to apply using white paint. I also have the appropriate markers for shim marks and other frame markings to apply. All threaded holes will be cleaned and prepped using my thread restoring tools.

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[Mike E.]

Re: 1967 Body Lift for Chassis & Frame Restoration

Richard,
The frame looks great! I would be little concerned the DP90 might turn chalky after while because it has no UV protection. Granted it is a below the car so it probably won't see that much direct sunlight. I used about exactly the same process as you on my frame. Several coats of DP90 epoxy primer then top coated with Eastwood ceramic semi gloss chassis black just to be on the safe side. It only took a quart because the primer coverage was so well. The second photo was taken the day after I painted the frame. The gloss has "died down" considerably since.

Primed:


Eastwood 2K Semi Gloss Ceramic Chassis Black


Mike

[Richard M.]

Re: 1967 Body Lift for Chassis & Frame Restoration

Richard,
The frame looks great! I would be little concerned the DP90 might turn chalky after while because it has no UV protection. Granted it is a below the car so it probably won't see that much direct sunlight. I used about exactly the same process as you on my frame. Several coats of DP90 epoxy primer then top coated with Eastwood ceramic semi gloss chassis black just to be on the safe side. It only took a quart because the primer coverage was so well. The second photo was taken the day after I painted the frame. The gloss has "died down" considerably since.

Mike

Thanks Mike, and thanks for the information. Yes I see you've been there too. Yours came out very, very nice. You and I and others doing this task can appreciate the efforts involved.

About 7 & 5 years ago respectively, I helped my friend restore his 2 '65 Fuelies. Those pics of his frame of one of them are in a post above. He'd been using just the DP90 for years on his frames and in the engine bay, just flattened a bit more in there.

He was convinced over the prior years on his other frame work that the DP90 was resilient under the cars and not adversely affected by UV light. Both of his '65's frames are still defect free using the DP90 product. I feel confident based on his experience that the topcoat is not needed in these "undercover" applications.

Rich

[Richard M.]

Re: 1967 Body Lift for Chassis & Frame Restoration

Over the last several days I've changed my mind regarding the Topcoat on this frame. After the DP90LF fully cured, I started thinking more about adding a Topcoat. Rethinking what Gene and Mike have decided on theirs, I too have decided to add a Semi-gloss Black topcoat. Thanks for bringing it to my attention guys. I'm glad now you brought it up.

I went to my Auto Body Supply yesterday and chose a 2k Semi-Gloss Black. I spent time on one side of the frame after a few spray-outs. However, as luck would have it, it seemed a bit too glossy to me after curing overnight.

First thing this morning I returned the paint to the shop. He remixed a new batch, using a more Satin blend. This time it was fine when I did a spray-out on a few panels.

I decided to use my rotisserie setup so I could shoot the entire frame on one side, then roll it over to shoot the other side without waiting to dry overnight. I use 2 2x4's, one bolted to the front frame horns and the other at the rear crossmember held by long studs.
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Total 3+ coats of the new blend applied.
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I also masked and painted the trailing arms yesterday. That was tedious. After a thorough solvent cleaning of the E-coated arms, I sprayed 2 coats of DP90 epoxy primer.
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The following day they both got Semi-Gloss Black. I forgot to take pics.

Rich

[Gene M.]

Re: 1967 Body Lift for Chassis & Frame Restoration

Rich
You made the best decision. I'm sure you will be pleased with the results even years from now.

[Robert B.]

Re: 1967 Body Lift for Chassis & Frame Restoration

I would like to think the semi gloss under the satin finish would add more integrity to the paint, albeit...more work for you Rich! Rbrt

[Richard M.]

Re: 1967 Body Lift for Chassis & Frame Restoration

Rich
You made the best decision. I'm sure you will be pleased with the results even years from now.

Like I mentioned Gene, thanks to you and Mike for some good advice. I really like the outcome better. Now was certainly the time to do this.

I would like to think the semi gloss under the satin finish would add more integrity to the paint, albeit...more work for you Rich! Rbrt

Yes, overall extra protection for long time. This frame certainly deserves it. This Satin blend really is a Semi-Gloss outcome, which was originally used. I've learned that paint manufacturers have different recipes for their named finishes. They're all different it seems. Black is tricky, Semi-Flat, Semi-Gloss, Gloss, Satin.........

At the paint shop, we spent about a hour mixing several batches and did a few samples, let them dry in the sun outside, then came up with the right recipe. My paint shop guy was a great help.

BTW, for prosperity, even with several coats of paint on this frame, the vin number over the left rear horizontal member is still legible.

Funny, after I finished and cleaned up yesterday afternoon, I sat down outside with a refreshment in hand and said to myself......."Hmmm, too bad it'll be all covered up with a body on it!"

A few "before" pictures are in order as a reminder of what we started with.,,,
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Happy Easter...

Rich

[Robert B.]

Re: 1967 Body Lift for Chassis & Frame Restoration

Yes, the body will cover the like new frame, however, we will always know what's there! Rbrt

[Richard M.]

Re: 1967 Body Lift for Chassis & Frame Restoration

Update...

Well, the flu got me two weeks ago and knocked me down. Only progress has been co-ordination of materials acquisition, engine related rebuild research, occasional phone calls to vendors and a few trips to some of my local suppliers and vendors. My energy level has been minimal, and I'm just sick and tired of being sick. Anti-biotics have worked, but didn't help the energy level. Not trying to make excuses, but just want to explain why I've been out of the picture lately.

So.....the latest discovery. It the process of cleaning chassis related parts from the bins, I got a surprise. The front hubs and spindles and arms have been my latest quandary. I knew I had the wrong hubs, but I then discovered something about the spindles/knuckles and arms on this car. They were all replaced with the later 78-82 versions. I admit I should have thought of this sooner, but was too involved in the bare frame repairs and repaint at the time. Live and Learn. Thanks to the archives here and great info from Joe Lucia, I am now better educated on the differences of 1965 to 1982 Corvette steering parts.

Thank You Joe!

For reference, here are some of the posts that helped me become smarter.....
About Spindles & Arms

More Spindles

About Everything


The present arms from this car, forging numbers 465071 & 465072, are the version with only one tie-rod end hole, as such only for the PS cars of 1978 up. This must have made the standard steering on this car more difficult. Although these are more robust than the earlier versions, they are wrong for the car. They also use the larger 1/2" mount bolts to the later incorrect knuckle/spindle. Now is the time to correct these errors.

This week I was in the process of locating correct spindles, arms and hubs. I just had a nice conversation last night with a gentleman from California who saw my Want-To-Buy ad I placed elsewhere. He has everything I need and we're likely going to do a deal this weekend when he gets the parts together and we talk again. He has no computer so we'll have to do it all over the 'wire'.

I saw individual pieces from others online but this will be a complete package for both sides including original hardware, etc. I'm hoping we come to a mutual agreement.

More to come....
Rich

[Richard M.]

Re: 1967 Body Lift for Chassis & Frame Restoration

Spindle and Steering Parts Update and about Eaton Detroit Spring.

Bought the Front Steering Parts from the man from California. After the Post Office sent my Bank Check to Elk Grove Illinois instead of Elk Grove California, a week and a half later it finally arrived, and after a 6 day wait for the box to arrive, the correct 1967 parts are finally here.

Correct Spindles - 3864023, Arms - 3817593 & 3817594, Correct Hubs, 7/16" mount hardware, and 2 original Backing Plates. I also got 2 original correctly numbered(7/16" mount holes) caliper brackets a while ago and presently having them zinc plated.

I have to clean everything, get new bearings and prepare for reassembly. I'll media blast the backing plates and if feasible will have them zinc plated. The spindles have traces of orange paint but generally were raw forgings. I notice the nuts have yellow paint on them. More inspection marks?
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I also have the two F41 Front Springs already media-blasted and ready to re-finish and then get the original labels reattached. I know they were never factory painted but I may likely do a dusting of Satin Clear on the springs for "driver" protection. I'll use contact cement to glue the labels back on. Since these have no "Flat-End", I'm proposing it makes no difference which way they go back in(?)....... Opinions welcome.
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I'll have the completed Front A-Arms back next week from rebuild along with rebuilt Half-Shafts. The original U-Joints were so badly seized that they had to be cut from the flanges in 4 pieces to free them up.

Rear Spring. When I painted the leaves and got to the main leaf, there was a Silver Dollar sized crater, about 1/8" deep, from prior rust hidden under the adjoining leaf. The crater was about 6" from the edge of the upper leaf. I decided it cannot be used. I've heard that others have bought a complete reproduction Eaton F41 spring and used the main leaf. Don't have to do that.......

Kim at Eaton Detroit Spring had their guys make just a Main Leaf for me. Took a week, shipped today. Correct 0.262" thickness with correct cut ends. $30 plus $17 Shipping. I'll take a few comparison photos to the original when it comes in.

Rich

[John H.]

Re: 1967 Body Lift for Chassis & Frame Restoration

Since these have no "Flat-End", I'm proposing it makes no difference which way they go back in(?)....... Opinions welcome.
Rich

Rich -

That's correct - makes no difference which end is up with linear F41 springs - only the standard spring (#3851100) is progressively wound with a variable rate and must be installed with the closely-spaced coils up.

[Richard M.]

Re: 1967 Body Lift for Chassis & Frame Restoration

Rich -

That's correct - makes no difference which end is up with linear F41 springs - only the standard spring (#3851100) is progressively wound with a variable rate and must be installed with the closely-spaced coils up.

Thanks John.

One other thought. Inside the spring tower up top is a spring seat(relief). These photos were after disassembly and I can see traces of where the coil ends were placed.
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I recall in has been discussed here that the spring is to be installed in the tower with it's coil end aligned to that relief. There is also a spring seat in the lower control arm. In that seat at it's end is a small hole. The hole is mainly there as a drain hole. Correct? I've heard that the proximity of the lower end coil may not mate with the seat, and more important to align the coil to the "upper" tower seat. Correct?

However, in the 1967 Service manual, page 3-15, under Corvette Spring "Installation", paragraph 8, states......"End of coils must be 3/8" from coil stops in spring seat." Note the plural. Is this meaning that each end should be at that location? Were the springs designed for that tolerance to be maintained?

When I get my control arms back and start reassembly I will pay close attention to the assembly and proximity of the coils to seats.

Rich

[Richard M.]

Re: 1967 Body Lift for Chassis & Frame Restoration

Quick Update. I installed the fuel tank and fuel line and the brake lines and new junction blocks.

The car was missing it's original fuel line clamp at the top of the frame were the line ends before the tank hose. It looks like this.....

Photo courtesy of LI Corvette.
clamp.jpg
I've located one and will install later.

I knew someone took it off long ago, probably when they added a inline filter between the tank and line. Remember what I found before? I never like to see a fuel filter at the tank, and always felt it's hiding something about the tank, not to mention the safety factors of vibration and bouncing around.

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I mapped out the "anti squeak" pad locations from the original tank and glued them onto the new tank.
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Fuel Line. I had some difficulty and had to do some rebending up by the front end. The end of the repro line wasn't at a exact 90* so I fixed that. I set the fabric loom to spec by the AIM(22.25" from the end of the pipe. Fed the line into the kickup with the plastic "grommet" in place. Clamped it all down and added the new hoses. BTW, these hoses are SAE 30R7 specification which will tolerate today's ethanol enhanced fuels.

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I am a bit confused by a hole in the frame up front near the end of the line at the 90* bend. I think there is a hole there on frames, but unsure if it's meant to be for a clamp or not. The AIM does not show the fuel line for the Bog Block cars, so unsure of the arrangement. I found one there on disassembly.

I found a file Photo from John Hinckley but it shows no clamp there, but it looks like a hole is near the bend.FuelLineBB_from_John_Hinckley.JPG
Ideas?

Rich
p.s. My Eaton Main Main Leaf Spring is on the way, however a little mix up about the price. It's $145.

[Richard M.]

Re: 1967 Body Lift for Chassis & Frame Restoration

Brake Lines. The long line needed some coaxing and rebending near the left rear junction block. I saved the old line and used it as a reference for the correct bends.

The clip to tie the 2 lines up near the master cylinder will be installed later.

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