1967 Body Lift for Chassis & Frame Restoration

[Rob M.]

Re: 1967 Body Lift for Chassis & Frame Restoration

Just for the record, this is better than a weekly TV series in my book any day!! Thanks and keep it coming.

[Richard M.]

Re: 1967 Body Lift for Chassis & Frame Restoration

I finished removing the front suspension. Using my spring compressor, pullers and tie-rod forks, it all came apart quite easily.

The inside of the front crossmember has some interesting crusty items in there. The brake lines were seized and were coated with shiny black paint over rust.

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Wrong size cotter pin here(very thin). Both front wheel bearings were loose and not set to proper spec when I took them apart. I could rock the wheels and they made clicking sounds. Not good for bearings and spindles. All bearings/races will be renewed.
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Nice frame horns.
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You must use the proper Pitman arm Puller here. Very tight. Index marks made for reassembly. The steering box was noted to have crunching sounds when I toggled the steering assembly back and forth on disassembly. It desperately needs to rebuilt. Someone adjusted it too tight and caused internal problems.
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When removing the upper control arms, I noted and bagged the shims to get me in the ballpark on reassembly. The car will be trailered to my alignment shop after completion.
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The bolts in the spring towers to hold the upper arms are serrated. Thread the nuts back on flush with the tip of the bolts and hammer them out.
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Some of the pieces removed. I have much cleanup to do while the frame is out being stripped of rust and paint. I'll have a bucketfull of hardware for my plater soon.
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This is the Pressure Differential switch. It turns the "BRAKE WARNING" light on if theres a imbalance in the front to rear hydraulic system. I'll open it up and change the o-rings on the internal piston after thorough cleaning and test of the switch. All new brake lines and hoses are going on. I will flush and rebuild the brake calipers and master cylinder using denatured alcohol to prepare for DOT 5 silicone fluid in this system.
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This is what the PD switch looks like inside(previous car rebuild). The double piston inside has a center rod(looking down when contactor removed). When it moves to one side, it makes contact with the threaded connector contact, which then completes the ground path to the telltale lamp. These are often seized so they don't work properly. When bleeding brakes they can activate, so you have to do a little more fiddling at each end of the system to get it balanced. Gravity bleeding is my preferred method, and that keeps it centered by default.
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Keep in mind, that when the weight of the hardware is eliminated from the front of the frame, it will get much lighter. I chained the frame to my forward lift arm in preparation.
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These are views looking up into the spring towers.
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Here is some of the nastiness inside the front crossmember and the rust and junk that can collect in the spring towers. All welds look good. I'll clean out all of the loose pieces before media blasting. I'll check integrity after that and hopefully it will be free of problems.

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Rich
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[Richard M.]

Re: 1967 Body Lift for Chassis & Frame Restoration

Rear chassis and associated assemblies removed today.

Before the tools hit it.
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What wrong with these photos? Someone didn't do it properly.
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Release the tabs on the French Locks and removed the half-shafts.
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Pieces adding up again.
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I used my brass drifts to get the shock mounts removed.
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Before I removed the spring I tied a few rubber bungees up to hold it when I released the spring bolts. Safety first.
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The Park Brakes on the midyear disk system is not a favorite. I remove the adjuster first, then the lower spring. I
then pry the shoes inward to remove the hold-downs. I then lift out and up and the top spring pops off.
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Here the rearward hold-down pin can be seen. It's between the backplate and the hub carrier.
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I loosened all hub to arm bolts in preparation for rebuild at a outside shop.
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I loosened the snubber bolt but left the bolt & nut loosely attached for safety. I positioned the differential on some blocks and removed the 4 attach bolts at the crossmember. They were not very tight and the hardware was a mixed bag of wrong pieces.
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With the differential resting on the blocks, I raised the frame up and away.
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Mostly done. I need to remove the differential crossmember and the fuel tank crossmember and it's done.
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I'm hoping to get the frame and major parts to the media blast shop by Tuesday.

Rich
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[Richard M.]

Re: 1967 Body Lift for Chassis & Frame Restoration

The Frame is totally bare now. Due to some unforeseen frame issues found, the frame will not go to the media blast shop until early next week. The reason will be explained later in this post.

The rear differential crossmember came off easily and is in good condition. The rubber mounts appear in good condition, however I have to inspect them very closely to decide if they will be replaced. My gut feel is to replace them if they are 48 year old originals. That's a fun task.
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The "sombreros", the nickname phrased for the mating frame attachment points for the rubber mounts, are in very good condition.


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There was one minor casualty when removing the rear sway bar. One of the 5/16" bolts attached to the frame snapped on me. I had to step drill it clear it and pick out the pieces. No threads in the captive nut-plate were damaged. I cleaned it out with a thread restorer.
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However....... as suspected, the rear frame-rail end caps and frame have issues. This is a common area where rust builds inside the end cap cavity. This cavity can be blocked from airflow. As you can see, by design, the lower inner corners have a void where the endcap is welded to the frame-rail. It's a triangular area about 1/2" per side. This gets blocked over time from road debris. Once this happens, air cannot penetrate the cavity. Moisture and rust then occurs. Over time this area of these frames becomes a hidden hazard.

Left - Totally blocked
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Right - Partially blocked
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I started to dig into the right. This is what came out. Small greenish pieces of material came out. I'm unsure what this is. Possibly old pieces of welding rod flux. I usually don't photograph "dirt" but this time was an exception. Quite a pile hidden is the right cavity. I need to cut the end caps out on both sides to go "cave-hunting".
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These cavities are hidden due to formed reinforcement gussets welded into the frame a few inches forward of the endcap. The gusset and the endcap blocks airflow to the frame cavity and is a haven for rust.

Here is where the gusset is welded to the oval holes in the frame-rail. The gusset is also welded internally when the frame channels were assembled. Side view of the welds to hold it in. The cavity resides from the endcap to the welded ovals.
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================================================== ================================================== =====
This is a similar, but much more involved repair to a midyear frame I performed years ago. This is to show what the internals of the cavity look like. This is not the above 1967 frame.

The gusset on this one was not doing it's job. It's the inner plate with the hole in it. The end cap was 90% gone. I formed a gusset from a end cap, attached the repair section, and welded the replacement endcap. Then weld filled the oval holes to the new gusset. As you can see, rust never sleeps, and as you dig more, you find more. The crossmember needed attention too. This was a extensive but very necessary repair.

Before...........
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Repair procedure........
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After......
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Back to the '67.....As I dug deeper, it got worse. The left side has areas at the bottom of the rail that are perforated. I poked underneath and it pierced easily. I spent about 5 minutes pulling rust out with a magnet.
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Holes in the bottom of the frame.
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So there will be a delay to get it to the media blast shop. I need to cut out both end caps and investigate further. This will also show me the condition of the crossmember end caps and will allow the media blasting to get into both cavities to uncover any other weak areas.

More to come,
Rich
p.s. No updates until after the Winter Regional. I'll be there all 4 days working with Tyler and Tom. I'll be at the Vendor Gate with Tom Wednesday(tomorrow) and Thursday, and running around on a golf cart. Hope to see some of you there.

[Ara G.]

Re: 1967 Body Lift for Chassis & Frame Restoration

Funny about the tank sticker. I saw parts of my original tank sticker still on my tank on my silver L79 when I bought it. It was covered with dirt and filthy. I brought the car home and did the usual vacuum, wash, fluids, wipe down, fun etc....When I went to vacuum the car, I moved the driver's seat forward to vacuum behind the driver's seat. Low and behold, I find a mound of burlap, mice poop, paper, and paper napkin pieces. Disgusting. I went to vacuum the "mound" as fast as possible, and paused.....wait a minute, what the heck is that paper..???? I decided to don a pair of rubber gloves and tweezers (sorry Deb, I told you I had no idea what happened to your tweezers but they greatly assisted me with this project) and holy cow there were pieces of my tank sheet in the mound of you know what. I didn't get much, but I did get am/fm and leather trim. Apparently the mice had made a nice nest under the drivers seat from the burlap from the seat, pieces of my tank sheet and a paper napkin at some point in the car's life.
Then when my sending unit (the original) started leaking I wanted to have it restored, so to remove it I lowered the tank and dusted more off the remains of the tank sheet that were still on the tank. Using my wife's new makeup brush (read:clean) I dusted off 48 years of dust and crap and I clearly see, Air injection reaction, tinted glass, L79. But the coolest part was when I removed the tank straps, pieces of the tank sheets had fallen off and gotten trapped in between the straps and the tank near the bends. In there I found the shocking one.....the piece of the tank sheet with QB1 - red line tires of course. I took more pictures of this process than I did at our wedding....lol....oh well....Special thanks to my wife's make up items, they served a good cause on that day and have never been seen since.....LOL......ARA

[Richard M.]

Re: 1967 Body Lift for Chassis & Frame Restoration

Cool story Ara.

I still have some places to search on this one. Nothing yet.

[Richard M.]

Re: 1967 Body Lift for Chassis & Frame Restoration

Update.....Slight delay.

End caps removed to make it easier to clean those cavities. As you can see, surprises abound. I also found the end cap of the #3 cross-member had a soft spot, so I poked it bigger to get the rust removed from there also. I used John Deere to tilt the frame at all angles while rapping it with a heavy brass hammer to knock out any loose pieces. I spent a half day playing with this frame.

I extracted over 2 lbs of rust and debris from this frame. All faulty areas will be repaired and new end caps installed before paint. Going to the sand booth on Monday.

Rich

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[Dan D.]

Re: 1967 Body Lift for Chassis & Frame Restoration

Hi Rich, just something for you to think about here. A couple of years ago someone on this forum posted a thread concerning frame rust. This person had two mid years - I think both were 1965s. Both were nearly identical but one had a new frame installed and other one was original. While there was no noticeable perf through with the one with the original frame, he said there was a distinct difference in the integrity and rigidity between the two cars. When on a rough road or like going over railroad tracks, the car with the old frame would shake and feel loose, while the one with the new frame was very tight, like it was new. He indicated that a new frame would be in the works.

Certainly any loss of metal will reduce the strength of the fame, it is just a question of how much rust and how much less strength. The mid-years were definitely prone to frame rust, especially at the rear kick-ups, and it appears that yours has some hidden treasures, some of which you probably cannot see. If you search, I'm sure you could find the old thread. I will look too, because it would be interesting to see how his car played out; did he install a new frame and if so, what was the result.

Just thinking out loud for you Rich. Been following your postings at Lakeland, and all the pics you are posting with this car. Wish I had done that when I started my car. You are doing a stellar job. Very impressive. You are my Saint!

-Dan-

[Robert B.]

Re: 1967 Body Lift for Chassis & Frame Restoration

Rich, finally successful in logging in and really enjoyed the thread watching "Midnite" dismantled...sure hope u remember how to put her back together, just kidding! The pictures substantiate the endeavor to bring her back to a SAFE ride, as we need to keep this big block around for a while... Great Job, Rbert

[Richard M.]

Re: 1967 Body Lift for Chassis & Frame Restoration

Rich, finally successful in logging in and really enjoyed the thread watching "Midnite" dismantled...sure hope u remember how to put her back together, just kidding! The pictures substantiate the endeavor to bring her back to a SAFE ride, as we need to keep this big block around for a while... Great Job, Rbert

Welcome and thanks for joining in!!!

Everyone, Please welcome new member Robert Bonanno to the NCRS and here to the TDB. This is his Corvette which he acquired a few years ago. He also owns another fine 350 hp '67 convertible, acquired a few years before this one that is gorgeous and my favorite color combo, White/Red interior.

I've been after him to join the NCRS for a few years now, and after I told him I started a "chassis restoration" thread here regarding his car and sent him the links, I suggested again that he join NCRS for all of the great people and wisdom here and he ultimately decided to join. Welcome!

.....If I forget anything don't you worry, the guys here will set me straight. (BTW, taking all of these before pictures really helps on re-assembly too!)

If you can make time, see this thread for the Tech Session we're having on March 7 on a '67 BB in Ft Lauderdale. I know it's a hike across the state to get there, but it's shaping up to be a great session. It's about 2 1/2 hr drive for me and I may take either my '59 or my '07, not sure yet.

https://www.forums.ncrs.org/showthread.php?108675-NCRS-Tech-Session-Ft-Lauderdale-FL-on-March-7th

Rich

[Richard M.]

Re: 1967 Body Lift for Chassis & Frame Restoration

Hi Rich, just something for you to think about here. A couple of years ago someone on this forum posted a thread concerning frame rust. This person had two mid years - I think both were 1965s. Both were nearly identical but one had a new frame installed and other one was original. While there was no noticeable perf through with the one with the original frame, he said there was a distinct difference in the integrity and rigidity between the two cars. When on a rough road or like going over railroad tracks, the car with the old frame would shake and feel loose, while the one with the new frame was very tight, like it was new. He indicated that a new frame would be in the works.

Certainly any loss of metal will reduce the strength of the fame, it is just a question of how much rust and how much less strength. The mid-years were definitely prone to frame rust, especially at the rear kick-ups, and it appears that yours has some hidden treasures, some of which you probably cannot see. If you search, I'm sure you could find the old thread. I will look too, because it would be interesting to see how his car played out; did he install a new frame and if so, what was the result.

Just thinking out loud for you Rich. Been following your postings at Lakeland, and all the pics you are posting with this car. Wish I had done that when I started my car. You are doing a stellar job. Very impressive. You are my Saint!

-Dan-

Dan, Yes after removing over 2 lbs of rust and debris from this frame I began to think about it too. But I feel I've isolated the worst areas and will be strengthening those along with some now frame brackets and attachments. The rear kickups are very solid, and after the endcap cavities are reinforced, along with new rear gussets repaired it will give new life to the old skeleton. Since this frame, as shown earlier, is original to the car I feel it must be kept together. Of course, safety is the main concern, but I feel we've overcome that issue after a good inspection after media blasting and with the work slated to be done.

......and thanks for the nice words.

Rich

[Richard M.]

Re: 1967 Body Lift for Chassis & Frame Restoration

Update.....

The frame is at the media shop as of Tuesday. There was rain in the forecast Monday so I decided to wait a day. Ole' Johnny Deere helped me get it loaded on the trailer for the ride over along with some of the long frame crossmembers and sway bars loaded in the pickup.

I disassembled the F41 7 leaf rear spring for clean up as well. I have replacement liners and will refinish the leaves to gray as original before reassembly.
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On it's way to the media shop.
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FYI, I started a separate thread(for specific exposure) regarding issues with the differential crossmember frame gussets and sombreros here......

https://www.forums.ncrs.org/showthread.php?109405-1967-Frame-Sombrero-and-Receiver-Gusset-Question&p=734248#post734248

Rich

[Richard M.]

Re: 1967 Body Lift for Chassis & Frame Restoration

Back from media blasting late Friday morning. However, on the way back my Silverado decided to act up. "Reduced Engine Power" and I had to limp to the side of the road. Had my son bring my scanner to me. Couldn't get code, so I called my friend who own's a shop catering to this new-fangled stuff.

"Key to Run, don't start it." he said..... "Then smack the gas pedal to the floor and release about 5 times, then Key off, then Key on to Start".

Doggone thing started right up and failure was gone. Put it in drive with the E-brake on...."ALL FIXED!". Full power is back.

I said to him on the phone....."What the heck did you do? You fixed it!"

He said I need a new Throttle Body Assembly. The motor driving the throttle plate has a dead spot and although you can get away with the "pedal trick" a few times, he said it'll fail you eventually at absolutely the wrong time. I took his advice, got home okay, then promptly ordered a new TB from my NAPA right away. Due in the morning so Corvettes will take a sideline while my Chevy Pickup gets a new throat.

So............back to the car stuff. Here are the frame and misc photos back from their interrupted ride. I plan to coat it with Metal Prep very soon. Thankfully we're in dry season here in FL this time of year.

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Crossmembers, sway bars, 7 leaves.
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Here is the left sombrero gusset. As shown now clearly in poor condition, broken welds, poorly repaired. I was surprised to see it has been brazed. Not a good method for strength. This has to come off and be replaced. Parts were ordered Wednesday but this side was backordered.
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This is the right side. Not nearly as bad but it has much pitting and a cracked area. TBD.
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More to come later.

Saturday will be Silverado Throttle Body Day. I've not done one before, but it doesn't look extensive.....yet. We'll see.

Rich

[Edward J.]

Re: 1967 Body Lift for Chassis & Frame Restoration

Rich, I read your last post from yesterday, and was wondering about your truck troubles, GM has a there campaign on there 08 to10 trucks on the throttle position warranty, which is a common issue. which is housed in the throttle body.

[Richard M.]

Re: 1967 Body Lift for Chassis & Frame Restoration

Rich, I read your last post from yesterday, and was wondering about your truck troubles, GM has a there campaign on there 08 to10 trucks on the throttle position warranty, which is a common issue. which is housed in the throttle body.

Hmmmm, Thanks for that heads-up Edward, I just found a link to that campaign, '08-'11 V8's of various models. However, my Silverado is a '06(built Aug '05 so almost 10 years old now, yikes where did time go), with only 51k miles, so I'm on my own. Rats!

I decided to get a New part versus a rebuilt from Napa. I have to do this today, but I'd rather work on the Corvettes. Maybe later after I fix it.

Thanks,
Rich