1967 Body Lift for Chassis & Frame Restoration

[Richard M.]

Re: 1967 Body Lift for Chassis & Frame Restoration

Visited the engine shop Thursday, things progressing and hopefully will have it back soon.

Chassis moved around under it's own wheelpower...
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Body moved into new position for #4 Body Mount repairs. I needed to remove both mounts so I needed to support the body to support my weight inside the "hole". I used 2 2x4's under another 2x4 beam which I positioned under the rear deck area. I screwed everything together to keep rigid. With the assistance of a helper, the decklid hinges were marked with tape for ease of re-installation, decklid removed and placed in safe-keeping.
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The process of removing the spring towers is a stressful operation. There are 2 bolts up high which bolt it to the upper gutter reinforcement. It is very difficult to get at the outer bolt on each side. The bolts are in a difficult access point and require some extra effort to remove. Rust never sleeps, and the outers on both sides were slightly seized. You do NOT want to break the bolts or break the riveted nutplate in the reinforcement. I was able to get all 4 out but it took some nervous time.

As you can see, years of moisture intrusion from the decklid gutter or top down rainstorms take it's toll. I had already cut the heads of the bolts underneath so I just had to pull the broken bolts through from the top after freeing up the shims underneath.
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Here are the towers after removal. You can see there were 2 shims under each. Interestingly, there were only 2 body mount shims on the left, but 6 on the right. Since I replaced the chassis #4 frame brackets, this count may need adjustment later.
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Here is the driver side mount before removal. I used a sharp chisel to cut the swedged ends of the 6 soft aluminum rivets to free it from the body.
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Here you can see the nut-cage rivets in their counter bored section of the fiberglass body. Very corrosion prone in this area. All rivets were badly corroded here and also on the passenger side.
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Right side
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The bottoms of the springs are prone to rust so I have replacements. This is how I remove the springs. Clamp the tower in a vice and insert tongue depressors in between each coil while streching the spring using the decklid arm leverage. Once it's a bit loose a pry bar lifts it off. Note the position of the top link(1 of 3) for re-installation, but may need adjustment with new springs.
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Here are new cages and nuts with rivets.
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I media blasted, primed and painted the mounts. Note the configuration of the left side mount versus the right mount.
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Body areas cleaned and prepped for re-installation of the hardware using original type rivets. I just need a low weight helper to assist with the rivet bucking bar while underneath with the rivet set gun and hammer.
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Media blasted the remaining pieces....bolts, shims, and the bottoms of the towers. Red-oxide primed, painted, and installed the new springs.

Everything ready for reassembly.
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I stretched the springs using my shop press and inserted 4 sticks in each coil, then they fit into the towers slots easily, swung the lever and removed the sticks.....
Done
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My helper didn't show up today to help buck my rivets so that'll have to wait until next time.

Rich

[Richard M.]

Re: 1967 Body Lift for Chassis & Frame Restoration

Pulled rear harness and placed the new harness in position. Cleaned the underside body area and the mount areas for the #4 Mounts. This is job #87. Not sure what the yellow "X"'s are specifying, but I've seen them before.

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Old Harness & New harness.
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I tied a string to the Park brake lamp Switch before pulling the Tan wire out. This to install the new Tan wire under the carpet. The switch was loose due to a stripped screw. This may have may the Park Brake Lamp intermittent. Rethreaded and fixed using a new screw and toothed washer.
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I pulled the backup light housings, antenna, and rear emblem to prepare for some rear deck paint repair. I refinished the light housings and repainted the internals white. Someone in the past got some black overspray on the housings. Keep in mind a pair of these in reproduction lists for $350 these days.
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#4 nut cages and underbody mounts installed both sides. My rivet bucking helper showed up. As you can see the nut cage rivets are behind the mounts so the mounts must come out to replace the rivets. There are other ways to do this with the body on though.
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Pulled the entire pedal box to dig out a broken support bolt in the dash crossbar. While I was at it, well.... you know what happens.... I refinished the box, the 2 pedals, and freshened up the mechanicals. The broken bolt in the dash crossframe came out reluctantly, and I think may have been broken for a very long time. It's remnant had welded itself to the captive nut, as a tap wouldn't even break through it. I had to drill a bit out to get a tap in there. The reason was because the holes in the bracket didn't line up with the crossbar nuts. I had to file the pedal box brace so get the bolts will fit better on reassembly.
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Spring towers reinstalled, then decklid reinstalled. I had to shim(2 ea) the upper hinge bolt position on each side for better fit. The decklid was too high originally.
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This was done after several hours of paint repair on the rear deck. 2000 grit wetsand and buff using a fine-cut cleaner then a glaze compound. This was done to remove some flaws in the paint from a accidental fuel spill last year, which appears that ethanol dug into the paint a bit before it was noticed. Happily, we were able to remove all traces of the spill with our repair process. It's hard to see here but it came out very well and I'm quite pleased with the results. I'm glad we didn't have to plan a lacquer respray of the area.
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Will then finish up the rear harness install now that I can reinstall the backup lamps, etc.

Rich
===

[Richard M.]

Re: 1967 Body Lift for Chassis & Frame Restoration

Rear Harness Configuration question.....

This has always confused me and I typically ignored the AIM because it's misleading and unclear but this time I want it right. Every midyear I've worked on, this part is either missing or loose. It has to do with the harness clips. I removed 2, one at center over the license light was missing. These are metal clips with a rubberized coating. I refinished the rusted clips and used wide black heat shrink to to emulate the deteriorated rubbery coating.

Here in the AIM UPC 12, it shows 3 clips holding the rear harness. 2 are mounted to the top of the tail lights, outer left and inner right via the mount studs. But the center clip over the license light isn't showing the exact mounting method. The clips, Item 2 on Sheet C6, have holes for mounting them.

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Where and how is the center clip mounted? Is it bonded(not described in the AIM), or is it held by the license light hardware?(not specific) Here are some views for reference. Any of the chassis folks are welcome to set me straight. I can't recall this when I OJ'd the '67's in Lakeland at the Regional.

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Here's the rest of the harness for reference. Not often seen in this detail with a body on it's frame.
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Everything back on the rear end....
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Tuxedo Black buffed out is amazing. I find myself dusting it off every time the car cover comes off to work on the body prep. Note 3rd photo is NOT a picture of my bench & stool, it's a photo reflection off of a buffed out area next to the license frame.
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===

[Donald O.]

Re: 1967 Body Lift for Chassis & Frame Restoration

Richard,
the clip in question was used on the 65 thru 67 mid years and not he 63 and 64.
I'll have to check my databases for any sharks that might use it.

Don

[Richard M.]

Re: 1967 Body Lift for Chassis & Frame Restoration

Richard,
the clip in question was used on the 65 thru 67 mid years and not he 63 and 64.
I'll have to check my databases for any sharks that might use it.

Don

Thanks for the info Don.

I found a appropriate replacement for the one that was missing, but it's more of a placement issue as to where and how it attaches to the area above and next to the license light. The AIM is unclear.

Rich

[Leif A.]

Re: 1967 Body Lift for Chassis & Frame Restoration

Thanks for the info Don.

I found a appropriate replacement for the one that was missing, but it's more of a placement issue as to where and how it attaches to the area above and next to the license light. The AIM is unclear.

Rich

Rich,
I can't convey in words the respect I have for your patience and attention to detail and wanting to get "it" right every time. I like using the attachment point, you show, using the license plate light fastener. It certainly looks like a logical place. It will keep the harness out of harms way (from hanging down). And, once the spare tire tub is in place, no one will ever see it again. JMHO.

[Richard M.]

Re: 1967 Body Lift for Chassis & Frame Restoration

Rich,
I can't convey in words the respect I have for your patience and attention to detail and wanting to get "it" right every time. I like using the attachment point, you show, using the license plate light fastener. It certainly looks like a logical place. It will keep the harness out of harms way (from hanging down). And, once the spare tire tub is in place, no one will ever see it again. JMHO.

Thanks Leif, yes now is the time to try to get more detailed. Since things are apart it's best to try to replicate what was done originally. I know I've "deviated" a bit on certain things but mostly for strategic reasons with some being partially economic reasons. I have to set limits on some decisions.

Yes, I agree that probably that clip was attached to the license light hardware. Since not many jumped in with the answer I guess it'll remain a mystery for now.

Thanks,
Rich

[Richard M.]

Re: 1967 Body Lift for Chassis & Frame Restoration

The engine rotating assembly is done. Cylinder heads need new valve guides as there was too much side play. The guides had sleeves so we decided new guides are due. Here you can see a example of the marginal guides.
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I've learned that when guides were originally installed the valve stems were not necessarily centered in the guides. Since these have been reworked a few times, we felt oversized valve stems are not a viable option. We may need new valves and associated newly machined seats to realign. The guides will also be machined topside for positive seals. I hope to get the engine back this coming week....... according to the machinist.

So back to the body for continued work. I removed the original Dash harness and prepped the instrument cluster I restored with the new harness.
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Upon closer examination of the harness that I removed, I believe it was a service replacement harness as all of the instrument lamp sockets are black plastic. Here's a better view.
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The new harness and instrument cluster will be installed as a assembly as done originally. This will also ease back pain. I will reinstall the pedal support assembly before the cluster/harness work as that will make it easier also. I think the factory did it in that sequence as the firewall insulation was installed after the pedal support assembly. I had to sneak it out past the insulation to repair/restore with insulation in place.
I believe the sequence was....Pedal support, Firewall Insulation, Cluster/harness assembly.
Some of the original bulbs were wrong, burned out or corroded. I used new 1816's and a few of the originals, like a real GE #257 flasher bulb for the LIGHTS indicator. I'd rather keep that then the replacement #257's which don't blink properly.
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Before I install the harness assembly to the car I need to change the Ign Pink source lead terminal as this has Transistorized Ignition. The spade for the non-TI ballast gets removed and blade terminal attached in it's place. This connects to the TI White power lead to power the TI module when IGN on.
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While I had the harness wiring out of the way, it was then a good time to tackle the heater box removal. When I removed the glovebox earlier, I noticed it was missing one screw and I see why. I found a screw and nut in the ashtray and found out where it goes. Somehow in the past it broke free from the nut cage. I'll fix later before assembly. Just another one of those "little" things along the way.
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Heater box removed. Quite dirty inside with loose foam pieces falling out. Core frame rusty and looking nasty. Inside box was dirty and inner surfaces surface rusted. The core was changed once before as it wasn't a Harrison with a date, but because of time uncertainty I have a new core going in. As usual, now is the time to do this while things are apart. It was missing the inner dense foam seal and had the outer foam seal in the wrong place.
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There was the original hard rubbery petrified sealant around the edges of the outer cover, but someone also sprayed the cover with some flat black making a mess and hitting the blower too. This wasn't factory blackout as that was applied before the heater was installed. I'll be cleaning that off but will preserve the "drips and runs" of the original factory sealant of the cover.
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Overspray.....???
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I cleaned the entire box inside and out. I removed the surface rust in the housing with Scotch-brite and coated with some black. Media blasted all of the loose pieces and painted. New seals, lubed the mechanisms, and new core.
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Note if you change to a new core watch the screw length of the clamps. Use washers if it's close or shorter screws. Replacement cores have different tank configurations.
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Apply sealant at the edges before installing core/frame assy.
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After cleaning the outer cover with some lacquer thinner to restore it's "whitish fibers" and gray glass look, I installed it back in the car with the repainted semi-gloss black blower motor and original restored capacitor.

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Rich
P.S. I got the Master Cylinder back from Apple Hydraulics after re-sleeving. I'm glad Joe Lucia piped in with his good advice. I feel much better with a brand new bore inside.
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[James G.]

Re: 1967 Body Lift for Chassis & Frame Restoration

You are dedicated to detail Rich. I love your approach to do it once and do it right.

[Richard M.]

Re: 1967 Body Lift for Chassis & Frame Restoration

More body related "fix-ups"........

While the dash area was still accessible and before I install the new harness/cluster assembly, I removed the wiper motor for restoration and testing. I never ran the wipers and the motor needed a refresh so out it came There was no motor to firewall gasket, instead it was loaded up with gray sealant putty. I tested the motor and washer pump on the bench and it ran properly.

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I took it apart to prepare for media blasting and refinishing. I decided to use a coating rather than removing the internal brush plate rivets and zinc plate. My objective was to clean it up, retest, and reinstall.

Upon dissassembly I found a few problems. The grease was like wax and found a wire connection issue. The power lead to the Park Solenoid was ready to break off with only a few copper strands holding it on, and a improper blade terminal fastener. Someone was in here before, albeit a long time ago.
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I lightly media blasted and coated the steel items, cleaned the entire gearbox and gear mechanisms, reassembled with clean grease, tested operation, reset the armature end play for smooth operation, and all was well. The washer pump had a recent seal set installed and appeared good too and operated properly.
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Done.
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I then lubricated the underdash wiper arm joints and reinstalled the motor assembly after a thorough cleaning of the engine bay firewall surfaces. This firewall is in remarkable original condition so I did not try to alter it's appearance, just a cleaning up. Factory applied sealant was everywhere with typical drips and sags which I tried not to disturb.

Since I work alone, in order to install the motor is a bit tricky. I use two 2" long studs and thread them into the top 2 mount bushings on the back of the motor. I then place the motor into the firewall and use rope to tie it to the harness clamps. This holds it in position. I then go inside and install 2 mount bolts in the other 2 positions loosely, remove the 2 studs and replace with the bolts, then snug them all up tight.
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Next up was the kick panel vents. The inner door seals were good but doors a bit rusted and the grilles had 48 years worth of dirt. Now was the time to do this task. However, I recalled the passenger side lower drain had some pine needles and needed a cleaning. I suspected is was plugged up a little but got a interesting surprise when I got the vent door out. The mirror shot shows it was totally blocked with over a dry quart of jute pieces and debris and turds from a mouse haven. After a good cleaning out with tongs and vacuuming it was clear.

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I pulled the grilles and doors, washed the grilles in hot soapy water, media blasted and painted the doors and reassembled to the car.
Before...Both doors were like the left one in the 3rd pic.
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After...
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Since I removed the speaker and grille, I decided to fix a large gap in the grille to dash. This is a pet peeve of mine and I hate those big gaps in this area. It's typical to see some gap, but this one was very large as you can see here. I suspect that when the nuts get tightened too much causes this. This may have been at the factory or at some later time. I wanted to fix it while it was accessible.

Ugly grille to dash gap. I have a flashlight behind the grille.
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I've done this fix on many grilles in the past and it works good for me. But it's possible to damage the grille so be careful if you try it.

Here you can see the culprits. The design of the tabs which hold the captive studs can easily be pulled further away from the grille frame if the nuts are overtightened. IMO, the tabs should have been designed with less assembled height, but a moot point now. BTW, the nut spec is 20-30 lbs/inch.
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My fix. I carefully pad and support the grill frame. I then use a press to push the center of the tab downward to deform the tab slightly. This shortens the depth of tab to frame. Don't press too much. THis will tilt the studs slightly but the holes in the dash and speaker will accommodate it.
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When reinstalled, the gap is gone and looks much better as shown. Do not overtighten the nuts or the studs will pull out again. I have a flashlight behind the grille to show a gap free installation. No light can be seen at the joint.
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For reference, a few pics of the speaker and radio. Anyone know where that Exxon Station was? Car was originally shipped to Grand Rapids MI. I just did a quick search and there's a Exxon/Mobil in Yarmouth MA with a 398 exchange but not sure of what area code the number on the radio refers to.
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I pulled all original metal control knobs and buffed the chrome while all was apart too. Looking much better.
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More later...

Rich

[Dan D.]

Re: 1967 Body Lift for Chassis & Frame Restoration

Hi Rich,

Just commenting on your wiper motor. My 57 is very similar to what you have, only without the pump. I also cleaned up everything, did basically what you did, but did not media blast or re-coat. Now wish I had. Just curious to what you use for media blasting and what coating you used. I'm learning a lot from you and reading all your postings very carefully. You sure know how to do it.

By the way, I owe you a headlight switch. E-mailed you a while back but did not hear back from you. Have not bothered you as I know it was not a priority for you and I know you are very busy. But you are my hero!

-Dan-

[Joe R.]

Re: 1967 Body Lift for Chassis & Frame Restoration

Hi Rich,

Just commenting on your wiper motor. My 57 is very similar to what you have, only without the pump. I also cleaned up everything, did basically what you did, but did not media blast or re-coat. Now wish I had. Just curious to what you use for media blasting and what coating you used. I'm learning a lot from you and reading all your postings very carefully. You sure know how to do it.

By the way, I owe you a headlight switch. E-mailed you a while back but did not hear back from you. Have not bothered you as I know it was not a priority for you and I know you are very busy. But you are my hero!

-Dan-

Hi Rich,

I want to piggy back on what Dan said, you are my hero, too!!! This is the best restoration thread, hands down!!!

Joe

[Richard M.]

Re: 1967 Body Lift for Chassis & Frame Restoration

Hi Rich,

Just commenting on your wiper motor. My 57 is very similar to what you have, only without the pump. I also cleaned up everything, did basically what you did, but did not media blast or re-coat. Now wish I had. Just curious to what you use for media blasting and what coating you used. I'm learning a lot from you and reading all your postings very carefully. You sure know how to do it.

By the way, I owe you a headlight switch. E-mailed you a while back but did not hear back from you. Have not bothered you as I know it was not a priority for you and I know you are very busy. But you are my hero!

-Dan-

Hi Dan, I thought I replied to you email about that HL switch but it's been so long. It was a extra original I had here collecting dust. You did a great job testing the circuit breaker functions. You should do a Restorer article with your findings. You really should. Lots of folks are having continued problems with those reproduction 1958 to 1963 HL switches.

As for the Wiper Motor above, I used a light glass bead. I then give it a dusting of Eastwood Silver Cad. It's a good product, not exactly like true zinc, but for good overall protection against corrosion and to make these look better it's my favorite product. If you put it on too heavy it loks too thick so if you use it do some experiments on test panels.

The motor housing has to be thoroughly sealed for the blasting process. I use heavy masking tape on the inside edge to seal up the big opening, and a few pugs at the bolt holes. Before taping I also put a soft rubber plug at the inner bearing opening as a precaution. I set the cabinet pressure to about 20 PSI and carefully hit the metal and stay away from the taped area at the backside so it doesn't blow through.

Now in order to do this on the motor case, I had to de-solder all of the wires on the brush plate board. If you do this, just take note of the wiring color codes and placement.
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Another option if you don't have access to a media blaster, and if you have a bench grinder/wire-wheel, is to take off the housing and use the wheel to remove the old paint or corroded plating.

The 1956 to 1962 motors are different, but similar disassembly and restore steps. I did a full blown restoration on a '61 wiper motor I have here for a ongoing '61 restoration that's on hold until this '67 is done. I did this a while ago and decided to completely disassemble, send out aluminum for refinishing, and also all steel items out for cad plating. The whole enchilada is attached below. You may not want to do the complete re-do like I did, but you can follow along some of the steps to help you get it "pretty" again.

Rich

[Dan D.]

Re: 1967 Body Lift for Chassis & Frame Restoration

Thanks for the info Rich. Wished I had this when I did my motors. I did the windshield motor and both power window motors, which are similar.

The brown feed wire was, well to say least, saying it was pretty bad would be being kind. So to do this I had mine pretty much apart, except I did not remove the brush plate, as my brushes were good and I just cleaned the breaker contacts with sand paper. Power window motor leads were just as bad. I like your homemade rivets - I have done similar on other projects.

I noticed that you did not mention the 2 small bronze spherical bushings that are the output end armature bushings. These usually fall out when you remove the armature from the case.

I can send the headlight switch back to you. I was wondering why you sent it, as it tested perfect. I though it was a bad one. Did not know it was new.

Thanks again Rich.

-Dan-

[James G.]

Re: 1967 Body Lift for Chassis & Frame Restoration

Where is the BASS RIVER? You never know, you might find a missing owner.