1967 Body Lift for Chassis & Frame Restoration

[Richard M.]

Re: 1967 Body Lift for Chassis & Frame Restoration

Some info regarding Half Shaft Bolts Here......

https://www.forums.ncrs.org/showthread.php?110567-1967-Big-Block-Outer-Flange-and-Inner-Half-Shaft-Cap-Bolts&p=744104#post744104

[Tom K.]

Re: 1967 Body Lift for Chassis & Frame Restoration

Rich, I took a few pictures of my 67 big block frame today. I don't have that hole in my frame that you have by the fuel line bend at the front. I have never posted a picture before and so far I haven't figured out how to do it. If you need to see the pictures and I will figure out how to post them later. Hope this helps.
Tom

[Richard M.]

Re: 1967 Body Lift for Chassis & Frame Restoration

Rich, I took a few pictures of my 67 big block frame today. I don't have that hole in my frame that you have by the fuel line bend at the front. I have never posted a picture before and so far I haven't figured out how to do it. If you need to see the pictures and I will figure out how to post them later. Hope this helps.
Tom

Tom, Thanks for checking. I was looking for pictures of that area here and online and came up short.

I suspect that someone may have drilled a hole there on this frame and added a clamp at some time in the past. The AIM does not show a clamp there.

Rich
p.s. to add a photo, on the top bar of the "Reply" box, click on the "Image" icon(3rd from the right). Click "Select Files". It'll open a dialog box of your file folders. Click around to the folder where you photos are. Click on the file that you want to load. You can select multiple files by holding the "CTRL" key momentarily between "clicks". It will highlight the selected files. Then click "Upload" in the entry box. It'll add the file(s) in the post when you submit it. Notice it'll put the pics in your post where the cursor was placed in the text of the post. You can move them around with a Left Click drag 'n drop operation.

[Stephen L.]

Re: 1967 Body Lift for Chassis & Frame Restoration

No hole at that location on my April 67 build BB Chassis/frame...

[Ara G.]

Re: 1967 Body Lift for Chassis & Frame Restoration

Rich, I noticed the fuel line clamps were "safety" clamps with rounder tangs and not square tangs like known originals. I have a bag of NOS clamps if you want some. Just let me know. Heck of a lot easier to swap the clamps out before that body goes back down. Just let me know if you want them. I will mail them out to you tomorrow. Thanks, and your work is FANTASTIC.....................ARA....Nice job....

[Mike E.]

Re: 1967 Body Lift for Chassis & Frame Restoration

I mapped out the "anti squeak" pad locations from the original tank and glued them onto the new tank.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]60728[/ATTACH]

Rich
On my '65 the AIM show a nut-push on for the tank strap bolt, I'm not really sure what it was for. My car had it and the repo bolt kits did NOT include it but I was able to save the original. Perhaps the '67 is different or maybe yours does have it but I just can't see it in the picture, I also don't know if you can even see it when the spare tire tub is installed so it may not matter anyway.





Mike

[Stephen L.]

Re: 1967 Body Lift for Chassis & Frame Restoration

Mike,
More than likely the "push on" nut was to capture the bolt onto the strap and keep the square shoulder of the bolt in the strap hole during assembly.

[Richard M.]

Re: 1967 Body Lift for Chassis & Frame Restoration

Rich, I noticed the fuel line clamps were "safety" clamps with rounder tangs and not square tangs like known originals. I have a bag of NOS clamps if you want some. Just let me know. Heck of a lot easier to swap the clamps out before that body goes back down. Just let me know if you want them. I will mail them out to you tomorrow. Thanks, and your work is FANTASTIC.....................ARA....Nice job....

Hi Ara, The originals were badly rusted so I didn't want to re-plate and re-use them.

That's what was in the kit that I got. That's a great offer and yes I'd prefer the correct ones. I'll drop you a email.

Thanks!
Rich

[Richard M.]

Re: 1967 Body Lift for Chassis & Frame Restoration

Rich
On my '65 the AIM show a nut-push on for the tank strap bolt, I'm not really sure what it was for. My car had it and the repo bolt kits did NOT include it but I was able to save the original. Perhaps the '67 is different or maybe yours does have it but I just can't see it in the picture, I also don't know if you can even see it when the spare tire tub is installed so it may not matter anyway.





Mike

Mike,
More than likely the "push on" nut was to capture the bolt onto the strap and keep the square shoulder of the bolt in the strap hole during assembly.

Mike, sorry I missed your query......My "email notifications" often hiccup, as it must have this time.

Yes Stephen is correct. It's hard to see in the AIM, but that "push-on" nut(9) goes on the bolt(12) after it passes through both the guide(11) and the strap(10). It holds the 2 pieces together while you 'fight' that strap/guide/bolt/push-nut assembly into the hole in the support brace, while keeping the tank in proper lateral position, then with the other hand trying to get the nut started on the few threads of the bolt sticking down.

You get the idea.......not as easy as it appears as the push-on nut keeps falling off as you work the bolt down.

In fact, in your photo, you can see the push nut on yours has fallen down and resting on the locknut. Just like what was happening to me. I had to take them apart a few times and bend the push-nut so it would grip the bolt better. Barely enough unthreaded shank on the carriage bolt to keep the nut secure.

Rich

[Richard M.]

Re: 1967 Body Lift for Chassis & Frame Restoration

I received the new Main leaf Spring from Eaton. I took some measurements and it looks like a correct match. Apx 0.262" thick.

I took some measurements of the flaw in the original spring. The rusted area(discovered before I painted it near the end of my recoating exercise), has about 0.043" of missing metal. This is why I opted to get a new main leaf. There were also some worn areas from the adjoining leaf.

The big crater on one end and some similar pitting on the other.
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Reference.....Apx 0.263"
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The crater....Apx 0.220"
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I put the new leaf alongside the original spring. Interesting that now I can see the original leaf has some offsets from wear.

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I primed and painted the new leaf last night and will be assembling the 6 other leaves with new liners and through bolt, when my Rustoleum ....."takes forever to dry"..... paint actually dries. I love/hate Rustoleum.

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[Richard M.]

Re: 1967 Body Lift for Chassis & Frame Restoration

A question about rear strut rod bracket differences......Here.

[Richard M.]

Re: 1967 Body Lift for Chassis & Frame Restoration

Misc items recently worked on. Rear Leaf Spring and Misc Suspension pieces.

It took a while but the new main leaf paint dried so I assembled the retainers and swedged the flanges. I used my various 1/2" drive impact sockets and a beveled tool. Final swedge using a proper OD sized drive socket.

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Next step was to cut the liners to size. It's important to save the old pieces for reference.
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Once the liners were cut I was ready to assemble the spring leaves..............BUT

I checked the new center bolt against the original and the head was quite taller. I took it to the differential to check the depth of the hole. The hole in the diff to accept the head of the bolt is apx 0.250" deep and the outer edges. This bolt could have caused some trouble.....
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Here you can see it doesn't fit flush or below flush.
P5260025.jpg

I ground it down for a proper fit. Another wrong reproduction part. I will send a note to my supplier to warn them of this issue. I can imagine the unwary assembler torquing the spring up tight to their differential later and wondering why the spring moves around. Maybe even break the diff cover.
P5260026.jpgP5260027.jpg

I then assembled the leaves using 2 C-Clamps to get them set tight then tightened the bolt & nut.
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I cut the excess bolt leaving about 3 or 4 threads and peened the end.
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Done
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Here's what it looked like before...
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........
These are the correct spindles, arms original backing plates for front suspension. I decided to do the "all orange" paint version of the spindles, similar to how some cars have been observed. Maybe this car originally had them that way/ I'll be cleaning the machined areas of paint later. I decided to cast coat the arms, I know, deducts, but I know this will keep them fresher for a long time. This car is a "driver". The original backing plates need a little more media blasting to remove the remaining zinc plating bits. They will be zinc plated this week. Note that reproduction backing plates do not include the part numbers on them. I still need to cleanup/media blast the 2 hubs and install new bearings and seals.
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I also decided to prime and paint the rear diff and the front springs. I know it wasn't done this way originally and will get a deduct if judged. I want these items protected from the elements for longevity.

Primed
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Cast coated
P5260012.jpg

Rich

[James G.]

Re: 1967 Body Lift for Chassis & Frame Restoration

Yes that's what I think it is also. I researched this morning and found this photo from a archived thread.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]57369[/ATTACH]

AS usual Rich, you add a lot to this hobby. The fuel ines tell the story. LARGE ENGINE.......And yes, ''DUEL'' Side exhaust

[Richard M.]

Re: 1967 Body Lift for Chassis & Frame Restoration

Some assembly work Saturday and today. A few items missing from my orders will delay a few days. Appears I forgot the rear sway bar bushings and a few small items in my previous order lists. Parts will be here Wednesday.

Saturday....Differential, rear spring, trailing arms and some miscellaneous refinishing of some of the suspension parts. When working alone, it takes some interesting methods to install these heavy parts. I was able to lower the frame to the differential and jack it up to bolt to the crossmember. Rear spring weighs a ton, but used straps to hold it up while loosely attaching the 4 bolts. These will not be torqued to spec until all of the weight is applied after engine and body. The front differential bracket is the later '78+ type with the heavier reinforcements. We will keep that for better strength. I also painted the new brake rotor hubs to protect them from rusting. Won't see that with wheels installed.

Sorry the photos are a little blurry as the lighting wasn't ideal.
P6010014.jpgP6010015.jpgP6010016.jpgP6010017.jpgP6010018.jpgP6010019.jpgP6010020.jpgP6010021.jpgP6010022.jpg

When I removed the old trailing arms I recorded the shims location and thicknesses inner and outer on each side. I replicated them and used new shims upon reinstallation. Before connecting the rear spring I will try to come up with a method to check rear toe to minimize "shim changes" at the alignment shop when done and running. For the record, I truly hate this early method of shimming with the requirement to pull the TA forward bushing bolt to move shims around. I really hate that part. I wish they did the later slotted type shims with the giant cotter pin through the frame to hold them in. Did I mention that I really hate these rear shims? I really don't like them. Really.


Today......Acquired some original Front Bumpers and did a test fit before taking to the chrome plater. I also have original rear bumpers and had to drill out a broken bolt on one of them. That's always fun.
P6010007.jpgP6010001.jpgP6010002.jpgP6010003.jpgP6010005.jpgP6010006.jpg
More bumper info in another thread I posted yesterday regarding original bumper mysteries....Here.

I hope to get all of the front suspension pieces back this week and will update when that goes back together too. I also have correctly cast numbered brake calipers on the way. I sent the old incorrect calipers back for cores to Lonestar Caliper this morning. The box was 55 lbs.

Rich

[Richard M.]

Re: 1967 Body Lift for Chassis & Frame Restoration

Still waiting for calipers(shipped to me Monday from Lonestar) and some other suspension pieces, but just got the brake backing plates in from the plating shop....

This was Before....
P5140001.jpg

During....After lots of cleaning, wire brushing the crud before media blasting. They had a heavy dirty tarlike residue on them. The traces of plating were removed in a muriatic acid/water bath at the plater. Blasting wouldn't even take it off.
P5260039.jpgP5260039.jpg

After.....
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Here you can see the impression the original stamp left.
P6040023.jpg

Can't recall if you saw these earlier....The original Front Caliper brackets and large "M" bolts were done also.
P6040025.jpgP6040026.jpgP6040027.jpgP6040028.jpgP6040029.jpg

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