Acrylic Lacquer Brand

[Rich P.]

Re: Acrylic Lacquer Brand

Here is lacquer applied to give a factory appearance.

[Robert S.]

Re: Acrylic Lacquer Brand

Ok Rich-
Do you recommend an acrylic lacquer finish as opposed to a single stage enamel to duplicate a factory finish and do I need to have the enamel stripped in all cases?

[Rich P.]

Re: Acrylic Lacquer Brand

Let me put it this way. Lacquer is the easiest paint to use to get a factory look. But it can be done with ither paints. Do you need to strip in all cases. I can't answer that but I do know that there is no shop on GOD's green earth that will give you a guarentee unless it is stripped. Lets say that you have the best applied urethane job to start with then you might be able to keep it the most important thing to look at is how the body is. Are the gaps correct... is the fit typical factory... too many things to determine over the internet once you have found the shop to paint the car this will be thier call and the best ones to help you determine the answer. With these cars it is never cut and dry. There are always things to concider. And you did the best thing which was to ask the advice of people who care about these cars and helping others. But you also have to be open minded to good advise. What is good advise...you'll know it when you hear it and it makes sence.

Rich

[Robert S.]

Re: Acrylic Lacquer Brand

Rich-
I do know the painter is more important than the paint, like the muscian is more important than the instrument. let's assume the painter has the skill necessary to achieve the best possible results with either paint. which paint will make the car look like it was painted at the factory... They do look different to some degree. I'm assuming even without the lead the lacquer wins. Oh and which would give the better paint match for the millie red. I've read new paints don't match the original colors as good as long gone factory packs. this will be an important factor. I want the color to be as correct as possible? Thanks

[Rich P.]

Re: Acrylic Lacquer Brand

When I paint a car I will spend a conciderable time getting color matches from all different paint companies. Then I will compare them to original examples of that color. This is not an overnight process. Last year it took 2-1/2 months to get the right paint mixe in PPG lacquer for a Goodwood Green 67. First we got over a dozen paint samples and none were close. So I was able to have one of my good customers with an original paint 67 have the paint company come out with thier photo spectrometer (fancy name for a paint camera) it gives the paint company a good formula to start with. From there we tweaked the color 2 or 3 times to get it right.
So your best bet it to find someone with an original paint car to compare to.
As far as what paint will give the most correct look....for a metallic it is hands down lacquer for a few reasons but most importantly for the "ringing" or "Cherring" you want to get from coat to coat as you hand rub the finish. But for a solid color like your red it would be easier with lacquer. REMEMBER THIS IS JUST MY OPINION. Now would I recomend lacquer for your car...I don't know. The cars I paint lacquer are all trailer queens that live in climate controlled filtered garages. Let me tell you the biggest down fall of lacquer. IT IS SOFT AND WILL ALWAYS BE SOFT. wHEN EVER YOU WORK ON THE CAR AND LEAN OVER THE FENDER YOU'LL NEED TO POLISH OUT THE MARKS FROM THE FENDER COVER. So if that is something you can live with the lacquer may be your best bet. But if you are going to use it at all I would suggest otherwise.

Rich

[Alan S.]

Re: Acrylic Lacquer Brand

Hi Robert,
I have PPG Duracryl on my 71. It's Mille Miglia Red.
The car was sprayed about 4 years ago. The fellow who sprayed it hasn't ever painted with anything but lacquer and has seen it change over those years.
I continue to be pleased with the result. I full well realize that this car in NO WAY lives a normal life! At least in my mind it looks like it did the first time I saw it in March of 1971.
Today's lacquer was the right choice for me but I'm in a tiny minority.
It was a very difficult decision, especially after hearing Tom Ames' and Ken Schow's presentations.
Regards,
Alan

[Terry M.]

Re: Acrylic Lacquer Brand

Any suggestions on brand (PPG, DUPONT) of lacquer paint for best color match-74 mille red.
thanks. Thanks.

Bob,
The debate about the different lacquer paints available (modern v old) is moot. If you tried to repaint your Corvette in 1973 the paint you could buy at the paint store was, even then, different than what the factory used. The factory paint was designed to reflow on heating, but the paint store material was designed to air dry.

Many hundreds of us own Corvettes with the original paint that are 30 and 40 and more years old -- and the paint is fine. It just requires care and proper storage. Will these paint jobs ever look like a modern paint job done with modern materials? No way, and they are not supposed to.

If your Corvette were a 1968 to 1972 I would recommend DuPont -- as that was the brand mostly used at St. Louis during that era. I suspect it would also be a safe choice for a 1973 -- but there is so little market for automotive lacquer now days I suspect you will no longer have the choice of brands and will have to settle for what is available.

Even if you can find DuPont paint, your painter will have to match the color to the original (find a place that is hidden from sun for minimal fading) because the mixing colors and formulas have changed over the years. You would have to have the same thing done if DuPont is not available to you -- so no harm, no foul. Be prepared to shoot a dozen or two dozen test panels.

You may want to send a PM to Tom Aimes and or Steve Stefenson for their words of wisdom. I suspect Steve is the person mentioned with 30-years paint industry experience in one of the earlier posts. Tom has hands-on experience painting today, and may be able to help with a place to start your color match. I suspect tom will be leading a paint seminar at the Killeen Texas Regional next week. Check with the leaders of that event to be sure, but if he is I would strongly urge you to attend it.

[Donald T.]

Re: Acrylic Lacquer Brand

I won't try to talk you into or out of lacquer. However, I would not dismiss it as a viable option. I'm certainly in the minority opnion, but I prefer lacquer. I am not a professional painter, but as a hobbyist I have sprayed BC/CC and lacquer. Lacquer is much easier to work with and is more forgiving. It is also much easier to spot repair. It is not nearly as durable, so it does require care. I think I have about 3 years on this paint job and I drive it regularly on nice weekends. Looks just as good now as the day I finished buffing it out. It has been judged twice without issue. Not bad for a garage job!


http://www.flickr.com/photos/1273288...87209691/show/

[Joe M.]

Re: Acrylic Lacquer Brand

See the attachment in the last message for further input.

https://www.forums.ncrs.org/showthre...cquer&uid=3031

[Dick W.]

Re: Acrylic Lacquer Brand

Shortcut the process by not stripping and it will come back to bite you. NO warranty from the paint manufacturer, NO warranty from the painter, possible adhesion issues....

Strip the car or forget about painting it. Period.

[Robert S.]

Re: Acrylic Lacquer Brand

Donald-
Your red '65 is something else!!
Robert

[Edward S.]

Re: Acrylic Lacquer Brand

Rich,
I take it you did the paint - nice job.

[Donald T.]

Re: Acrylic Lacquer Brand

Donald-
Your red '65 is something else!!
Robert

Thanks Robert. It's just good ol' fashion lacquer sprayed in my garage.

[Robert S.]

Re: Acrylic Lacquer Brand

Jim-
I was stating my preferences not arguing. Most of the feedback I recieved compared todays lacquer with yesterdays. I'm more concerned with how close I can get it to a factory look and prefer lacquer's look anyway as opposed to the wet look of enamel with or without clear. My initial question was color matching (which brand) of lacquer. Not whether or not to do it in lacquer. I was aware the majority prefers enamel. Two owners with "today's" lacquer finishes are happy with their paint jobs and they pretty much erased any doubts I had. Anyone who has chosen lacquer has said it looks like when the car was new...There seems to be a consistancy there. And there doesn't seem to be a durability issue with care. Rich who paints with both mentioned its only preference as enamel can be made to look like lacquer, but I'm doughtful I would be happy with poly enamel as I own a car with factory lacquer. I'll probably see the difference. The stripping or not I'll leave for the painter to decide. If it will affect the quality of the finish I'm sure the strip will be recommended, but I wont require it. I was concerned about temperature and durability and wasn't aware of those fiberglass characteristics..very helpful info..thanks. The only decision I have yet to make is whether or not to clear. Its not really needed on non-metallic red but will prevent bleeding and color change over time. A previous lacquer finish I had done (Mahogeny Met. Cosworth Vega) years back was cleared and looked just beautiful..It looked like a factory paint job with a "show-prepped" gloss.
Rich answered my questions about color matching and I do appreciate all the feedback.

[Ridge K.]

Re: Acrylic Lacquer Brand

Jim-
I was stating my preferences not arguing. Most of the feedback I recieved compared todays lacquer with yesterdays. I'm more concerned with how close I can get it to a factory look and prefer lacquer's look anyway as opposed to the wet look of enamel with or without clear. My initial question was color matching (which brand) of lacquer. Not whether or not to do it in lacquer. I was aware the majority prefers enamel. Two owners with "today's" lacquer finishes are happy with their paint jobs and they pretty much erased any doubts I had. Anyone who has chosen lacquer has said it looks like when the car was new...There seems to be a consistancy there. And there doesn't seem to be a durability issue with care. Rich who paints with both mentioned its only preference as enamel can be made to look like lacquer, but I'm doughtful I would be happy with poly enamel as I own a car with factory lacquer. I'll probably see the difference. The stripping or not I'll leave for the painter to decide. If it will affect the quality of the finish I'm sure the strip will be recommended, but I wont require it. I was concerned about temperature and durability and wasn't aware of those fiberglass characteristics..very helpful info..thanks. The only decision I have yet to make is whether or not to clear. Its not really needed on non-metallic red but will prevent bleeding and color change over time. A previous lacquer finish I had done (Mahogeny Met. Cosworth Vega) years back was cleared and looked just beautiful..It looked like a factory paint job with a "show-prepped" gloss.
Rich answered my questions about color matching and I do appreciate all the feedback.

Robert, I think you were very fortunate to get some very superb feedback in.
I thought Rich's comment about his last few lacquer jobs went on trailer-queens spoke volumes. You did get a couple of helpful posts from fellow members who were happy and content with their recent lacquer paint.
The archives however, reflect many others with a not so positive outlook on lacquer. For a while, soft foam "fender tenders" were being blamed for paint damage. Then someone noticed, that in virtually 100% of the instances, the paint was recently applied acrylic lacquer. Sorry, I can't tell you the brand of paint.
Here's another fairly recent thread from a member who shared your desire to have the paint look "as original".
https://www.forums.ncrs.org/showthread.php?t=68851

I really like your understanding that the "right" painter.... is key.
Good luck and let us know the final outcome. Ridge.