Acrylic Lacquer Brand

[Edward S.]

Re: Acrylic Lacquer Brand

Robert,
Why don't you find out where your C3 owner had the car painted and when? In the Chapter I belong too we have had 2 major restorers come in to give paint seminars - plus one of our members worked for Dupont Paint for over 30 years and all 3 said in no way is lacquer paint of today anywhere near the lacquer paint of old. I agree that if the painter knows his stuff todays paint can be made to look like the old days.
By the way I seem to remember that with today's judging if it does not look like a duck, smell like a duck, etc. no one is allowed to try to bring up paint. Correct me if I am wrong.

[Robert S.]

Re: Acrylic Lacquer Brand

I'm new to the Corvette hobby. I'm glad lacquer isn't required for top points and it shouldn't be required as you said its not the same..not available in its (previous) exact state. why not go lacquer though if it comes CLOSER to the factory finish whether lacquer is different today or not. It would never look like 400 degree baked factory lacquer, but it beats spending crazy money for a low milage original paint Corvette which i probably wouldn't find in my desired color and model, but it wouldn't cost much more to have a more factory appearing finish on my car, would it? So Why not? Talk me out of it....It seems to me enamel is third down the list for an original appearing car.. first being factory original, second an acrylic lacquer single stage job. Not to mention spot repairs and blending is much easier with lacquer down the road.
It just has to be kept out of the sun is the only disadvantage I know. The polishing I enjoy anyway.
Most C3 Corvettes I've seen in photos are 2 stage enamel and they look beautiful. But there is something about an original or original appearing car (in person)...know what I mean?

[Chuck S.]

Re: Acrylic Lacquer Brand

...So Why not? Talk me out of it....It seems to me enamel is third down the list. first being factory original, second an acrylic lacquer single stage job.

Talk you out of it?! Read the archives...this debate has been going on here for almost a decade. Think of today's lacquer as a poor reproduction of the acrylic lacquer used in the seventies.

[Robert S.]

Re: Acrylic Lacquer Brand

Like I said I'm new to Corvettes but I like the original lacquer job on my Vega much better than my other one refinished in two stage enamel. If I can get a job done close to the look of the original lacquer finish (on the 73 Vega GT) for the 74 Corvette I'll be very happy. orange peel and all which was also included on the Vette as everyone knows. I'm sure some people have gotten (current) nice lacquer jobs..haven't they?
The only difference I know is no lead in current lacquer. everthing else is the same including the application and preperation. How much difference could the elimination of the lead make to the final finish? (non-metallic red)

[Kenny C.]

Re: Acrylic Lacquer Brand

Robert
I don't think any one's trying to talk you out of anything, but merely tying to point out some issues so you can at the very least make an informed decision. If at that point you go one way as opposed to the other at least you know why you made that choice. You seem to want to go lacquer to have a close to original "Look" and that's fine but I have to emphasise that look may not be achievable no matter the material if not applied properly. And conversely a good painter can actually reproduce that dull orange peal look with urethane. So you need to be at least as concerned with the person as you are with the paint. As for your feelings on going over the existing paint well all I can say is don't be penny wise ect ect ect. After all your research and effort the last thing you want is for the paint to start showing lifting or swelling after a year. Like Paul said its not a pick up truck or the daily grocery getter. As for the oil comparison possibly you miss the point which was not to see what oil you use but to point out that today's technology offers us more and often better choices in many areas. I certainly love the nostalgia aspect and collect all sorts of old stuff. But let me tell you I used to ride a ridged shovel chopper cross country and loved the pain, then I discover full dress touring bikes with windshield and radio and I embraced the technology and change (and stopped pissing blood). Sometimes change is good.

[Bill C.]

Re: Acrylic Lacquer Brand

With care and effort you can make a BS/CC or Single Stage appear to be "lacquer -ish".

You can purchase different types of clear, some are more clear than others. When it is polished out, just cut the clear with a wheel and do not so ANY wet sanding - you will be amazed at how close the finish is.
Hand rub the car after being painted and buffed with an extremely fine compound, it will leave some swirl marks and put just a itty-bitty haze on the finish.

I can go on and on ---------

the BIG PLUS ---- paint will last REALLY long time, more durable in weather and much easier to match on when doing spot work (for repairs, blemishes later on).



My 2 cents.

[John D.]

Re: Acrylic Lacquer Brand

Any suggestions on brand of lacquer paint for best color match-74 mille red.
thanks. also any prep suggestions for application of acrylic lacquer over 2 stage repaint. Thanks.

In my area -SW Corner of PA- the only brand we have available that handles some of the lacquer paint is PPG. Some is the key word. JD

[Ridge K.]

Re: Acrylic Lacquer Brand

Robert, I wouldn't try to talk you out of having your car shot in acrylic lacquer period, but would encourage you to do a lot more in depth research. I think that everyone who's commented on this today, has only tried to provide some helpful advice, not talk you out of your final decision.
I'm a little older than you (55), and have been having muscle cars painted for coming up on 40 years. In acrylic lacquer's heyday, I wouldn't consider any other paint choice for a GM vehicle. The key word here, is "lacquer's heyday". Today's lacquer is nothing like the acrylic lacquer our beloved Corvettes were painted in from '57 (silver) up until the time Corvette production switched to modern paints.
Don't take my word for it however, do as I have done and actually talk to some of the top classic car painters in America. Not just young guys, but also those who were painting in the first generation acrylic lacquers. I've talked to twelve of the top painters in America, since purchasing my low-mileage, original "67 Corvette. Out of 12, only one even wanted to even discuss today's acylic lacquer. It's pointless for me to discuss the technical issues of today's lacquer, as I am not a painter, or a chemist. I have however talked in depth to people who prepare million dollar+ cars, and could easily demand huge dollars for shooting lacquer on Corvettes. Hands down, the experts say today's lacquer is at best, a shadow of what it once was.
No offense to my fellow members who still believe in it, and use it. I am simply stating what my own research has concluded. I have no dog in the hunt. use the paint you want, BUT,....talk to at least a few of the top experts in America. If after talking to true experts (not just senior judges who are experts the correctness or lack of, vintage Corvettes, but not necessarily an expert on today's automotive paints),.... you want to go lacquer, by all means you should go for it.
Best of luck to you in your final decision, Ridge.

[Robert S.]

Re: Acrylic Lacquer???

Having checked the archives I knew I wouldn't get even one post in favor of it so I gave my reasons. No one has said it doesn't look more original however and that is what I want. Until someone says enamel looks more like a factory finish I guess lacquer it will be regardless of its current composition...The painter in question is willing to do it either way. He did an acrylic lacquer job in '88 for me duplicating the factory finish on a Cosworth Vega with the proper texture. No judge could tell it was a repaint. He's very good. As far as the painters Ed mentioned, besides the current composition of the paint any comments on the results of a properly applied acrylic lacquer finish versus enamel ? Does anyone have a Corvette painted in lacquer recently that is happy with the finish?
Thanks for all the input and suggestions.

[Jim D.]

Re: Acrylic Lacquer???

Robert

You have been given some very good advice regarding todays lacquer. Listen or don't listen. It's your car. As long as you store your car in a garage, trailer it to shows and never subject it rock chips or possible damage, you'll be okay with todays lacquer. Regardless of what you choose, not stripping the car of its current paint is nothing more than cheap shortcut with nothing to gain and everything to lose.

[Robert S.]

Re: Acrylic Lacquer Brand

I haven't been convinced that a full strip is needed. if eurathane enamel is so good it can stay there. sanding and sealing it for lacquer should be enough....I haven't decided yet if its really needed.
WHY should it be stripped if its so durable and lasts so long to cause trouble sanded then primered and sealed?
In closing, I don't care if the paint has changed. I care about the results of the finish. I know the difference in the look and I like lacquer's look better. clear coated enamel makes too many fine lines in the finish over time and actually requires more work to rub them out. Lacquer is harder and it should still look similar to what it used to look like. Two or three coats wet sanded in between then polished in 24 hours. and polished and waxed once a month. Anything wrong here?

[Rich P.]

Re: Acrylic Lacquer Brand

Robert,

What ever paint you use is only as good as the painter PERIOD. If you want a car to look like it has a factory lacquer paint job on it you need to reasherch the painter/shop and examine cars they have done and inspect the finish in person.
But a factory style paint job can only be applied to a body that is prepared to look like a factory body NOT some sealed over urethane paint job. You really need to think this WHOLE thing through not just what paint you want to use. Just trying to help you with my 2 cents (in todays economy that comes to .00000032 of a cent)

Rich

[Jim D.]

Re: Acrylic Lacquer Brand

I haven't been convinced that a full strip is needed. if eurathane enamel is so good it can stay there. sanding and sealing it for lacquer should be enough.
WHY should it be stripped if its so durable and lasts so long to cause trouble under the primer/sealer?
In closing, I don't care if the paint has changed. I care about the results of the finish. I know the difference in the look and I like lacquer's look better. It should still look similar to what it used to look like.

You obviously have your mind made up and it's a waste of time to discuss this any further but I will add - A fiberglass body shrinks and expands with temp. changes. It also flexes unlike a metal body. The thicker the paint film, the more likely cracks will appear. Regardless of the paint used, if the underlying substrate cracks, it will show in the top coat.

Do whatever you want but don't argue with those that are trying to help you make an INFORMED decision. I'm done.

[Robert S.]

Re: Acrylic Lacquer Brand

I have a guy that did an acrylic lacquer finish 20 years ago for me. He did not strip the original paint, but did fully prime and seal it. The car always won trophys and nobody ever knew that car was redone. I just wanted to know if anyone has had a lacquer job done...recently. Is the strip really required?? why is the sealer not enough?

[Rich P.]

Re: Acrylic Lacquer Brand

I have a guy that did a factory lacquer finish 20 years ago. He did not strip the original paint, but did fully prime and seal it. The car always won trophys and nobody ever knew that car was redone. I just wanted to know if anyone has had a lacquer job done...recently. Is the strip really required?? why is the sealer not enough?

Robert,

Like I stated before it is not the paint finish alone that makes a corvette look original. It is all the little things such as:
Do you know what part of the hood surround/fender to door gap should have a sharp ground edge and which part sould have a rounded edge? How round or sharp should the fender peak lines be? How much of a lump should you leave where the fender and hood surround are bonded at the front bumper? I and others could go on with these for hours.
I have painted corvettes in every substrate under the sun. I am just finishing a lacquer job right now as well as a few urethane jobs. Do you even know if the car has had any panels replaced? Have the repairs been done properly. How old is the paint job? What did they use for undercoats??? Are you willing to chance a 10,000 or so scuff and shoot on that??? When they shot the urethane did they mix it properly? There are over 1000 reasons to question the undercoats.

Rich