1970 ZR1

[Jack Alexander]

Re: 1970 ZR1

Hi Dan,

Thank you for getting in contact with me. It sound like you are someone I very much need to know. I have your E Mail adress and will get with you when I know a little more. Sadly this car is in nowhere in the condition your is. Doubly sad if it turns our to be a true ZR1. I am trying not to get too optimistic about it, but there are some eccouraging things so far. This could be one for the "Restorer"

Regards,

Jack Alexander

[Jack Alexander]

Re: 1970 ZR1

Hi Dan,

Thank you for getting in contact with me. It sound like you are someone I very much need to know. I have your E Mail adress and will get with you when I know a little more. Sadly this car is in nowhere in the condition your is. Doubly sad if it turns our to be a true ZR1. I am trying not to get too optimistic about it, but there are some eccouraging things so far. This could be one for the "Restorer"

Regards,

Jack Alexander

[Jack Alexander]

Re: 1970 ZR1

Hi Joe,
Hopefully in the next few days I will get a look at the elusive motor.

Jack

[Jack Alexander]

Re: 1970 ZR1

Hi Joe,
Hopefully in the next few days I will get a look at the elusive motor.

Jack

[D S.]

Re: 1970 ZR1

To get the tank sticker off is quite an adventure. If there is one left. Before you embark on the gas tank search look for a build sheet that may have been left in the car. There have been several reported places people have found them. Behind the right dash pad, between the tachometer and speedometer, under the bulkhead carpet behind the seats, under one of the seats tucked in the seat springs. If you can't locate one anywhere in there then the next step is to carefully pull the rubber boot from around the gas tank neck so that you can see the top of the gas tank in all directions. Use a flexible neck flashlight. If you see one do not attempt to pull it off. Chances are it is brittle but still glued to the tank so feel around with care. To remove the tank will require that the gasoline will have to be evacuated from the tank as it will have to anyway after all those years. Then you have to drop the gasoline tank. Refer to the assembly manual or Corvette Automotive Repair Manual for steps on how to remove the tank. Below are engine suffix codes to help you determine which engine is wrapped up.

CTD: 350ci, 300hp MT, Casting number 3970010 (left rear)
CTG: 350ci, 300hp AT
CTL: 350ci, 300hp MT
CTM: 350ci, 300hp AT
CTN: 350ci, 350hp MT
CTO: 350ci, 350hp MT, AC
CTP: 350ci, 350hp MT, IG
CTQ: 350ci, 350hp MT, AC, IG
CTH: 350ci, 350hp MT
CTJ: 350ci, 350hp, MT, AC
CTK: 350ci, 370hp MT, IG
CTR: 350ci, 370hp MT, IG
CTU: 350ci, 370hp MT, IG
CTV: 350ci, 370hp (ZR1) MT
CGW: 454ci, 390hp AT, Casting number 3963512 (Left rear)
CRJ: 454ci, 390hp AT, IG
CRI: 454ci, 390hp MT, IG
CZU: 454ci, 390hp MT

[D S.]

Re: 1970 ZR1

To get the tank sticker off is quite an adventure. If there is one left. Before you embark on the gas tank search look for a build sheet that may have been left in the car. There have been several reported places people have found them. Behind the right dash pad, between the tachometer and speedometer, under the bulkhead carpet behind the seats, under one of the seats tucked in the seat springs. If you can't locate one anywhere in there then the next step is to carefully pull the rubber boot from around the gas tank neck so that you can see the top of the gas tank in all directions. Use a flexible neck flashlight. If you see one do not attempt to pull it off. Chances are it is brittle but still glued to the tank so feel around with care. To remove the tank will require that the gasoline will have to be evacuated from the tank as it will have to anyway after all those years. Then you have to drop the gasoline tank. Refer to the assembly manual or Corvette Automotive Repair Manual for steps on how to remove the tank. Below are engine suffix codes to help you determine which engine is wrapped up.

CTD: 350ci, 300hp MT, Casting number 3970010 (left rear)
CTG: 350ci, 300hp AT
CTL: 350ci, 300hp MT
CTM: 350ci, 300hp AT
CTN: 350ci, 350hp MT
CTO: 350ci, 350hp MT, AC
CTP: 350ci, 350hp MT, IG
CTQ: 350ci, 350hp MT, AC, IG
CTH: 350ci, 350hp MT
CTJ: 350ci, 350hp, MT, AC
CTK: 350ci, 370hp MT, IG
CTR: 350ci, 370hp MT, IG
CTU: 350ci, 370hp MT, IG
CTV: 350ci, 370hp (ZR1) MT
CGW: 454ci, 390hp AT, Casting number 3963512 (Left rear)
CRJ: 454ci, 390hp AT, IG
CRI: 454ci, 390hp MT, IG
CZU: 454ci, 390hp MT

[Jack Alexander]

Re: 1970 ZR1

Hi Scott,

Thanks, I'll keep you up to date. You have been very helpful. Did they put the same selection indicator on the console whether the car came with that option or not? This car and several 70's I saw at a show yesterday showed "AC" when in fact it it not have it. I have seen this in many cars of that era and wondered if true on the 70?

Jack

[Jack Alexander]

Re: 1970 ZR1

Hi Scott,

Thanks, I'll keep you up to date. You have been very helpful. Did they put the same selection indicator on the console whether the car came with that option or not? This car and several 70's I saw at a show yesterday showed "AC" when in fact it it not have it. I have seen this in many cars of that era and wondered if true on the 70?

Jack

[D S.]

Re: 1970 ZR1

Without having a non-a/c control in front of me and reading from the judging guide it states that non-a/c '70-'72 Corvettes have the word AIR and DE-FOG on the control panel while the a/c Corvettes have A/C and BI-LEVEL. These units can be switched out. The things I look for in the interior are the two air levers with the black knobs on the shift console and no vents below the wiper switch bezel above the gauge console for non-a/c.

[Jack Alexander]

Re: 1970 ZR1

Hi Scott,

Thanks for getting back to me on that. I will check it out.

Jack

[Jack Alexander]

Re: 1970 ZR1

Thanks Chuck and Mark,

I know I am a long way to determining if this is a ZR1 and all of your info will help greatly. I will look into every suggestion on this thread. I have been a little disappointed in the valuation of such a rare car. As to the "little old lady", remember she wasn't old in 1970. She is someone you would have to meet to appreciate. Very wealthy and currently drives a ZO 6. Not like my Grandma.

Jack

[Chuck S.]

Re: 1970 ZR1

I was suggesting that possibly Chevrolet didn't allow anyone to order a ZR1 unless they were well-known as a racing competitor, and could demonstrate a genuine racing purpose for the car.

It doesn't appear that the ZR1 package was even on the 70 RPO list, but the L88 (~$1000) was listed as an RPO from 67 to 69. With only 25 sold, it seems more likely that corporate approval, rather than wealth, was the criterion for owning one. There also doesn't seem to be enough content in the ZR1 package to really make it cost prohibitive to the average owner if they wanted one to drive around town...seems like they might have sold more if anyone could order one.

[Dan Pepper]

Re: 1970 ZR1

Chuck-

I don't believe it took any special "in" with GM to buy a ZR1 optioned C3. Rather, there were only 25 sold in 1970 for a few reasons:

First, the ZR1 Special Purpose Engine Package cost $987 (20% of the base cost of the car) and you got no power options or radio. That took-out most of the boulevardiers right there.

Second, there was no mention of the ZR1 package in dealer literature until well into the already late '70 model year. It was obvious that Zora cobbled these cars together out of existing parts bins (as only he could do so well) as a way to stay competitive on the track in SCCA class B competition. In his biography he was quoted as saying he was disappointed in ZR1 sales - but also called the package, "my last great white hope for Corvette racing." Not to mention there was more buzz and media emphasis put on the stillborn LS7 then there ever was on the ZR1.

Last, the guys who really wanted to race competitively were still flogging/building L88's and ZL1's. And after having the L88 available at roughly the same price ($1,032) a year earlier and the '70 LS7 taken off of the table, the LT1-powered racing package probably seemed a bit underwhelming compared to what was winning SCCA A production racing titles in '69 and '70. Not to say the ZR1's aren't spectacular performing cars. It's just that they wouldn't beat a 427 - all other components being equal - except perhaps on a tight course.

Finally, based on the authenticated ZR1's I'm familiar with, they do not appear to have been raced hard, meaning no roll bar, fuel cells, adjustable suspension components, etc. appear to have ever been installed. That doesn't mean they weren't raced, just not raced at a professional level.

[Chuck R.]

Re: That interior looks like my 69

This isn't a Maine car is it?

Back in the day when I owned my blue 69, I had the seats re-upholsterd with the blue velour.

Not original but the girls sure loved it!

Chuck

[Chuck S.]

Re: 1970 ZR1

Awesome info, Dan...Thank you very much.

Say...I think the same guy that did those seats also did mine!!! Crushed blue velour...Mmmmmm. You didn't buy that car in El Paso, did you?