1967 Body Lift for Chassis & Frame Restoration

[Richard M.]

Re: 1967 Body Lift for Chassis & Frame Restoration

Dan, That HL switch was new? I forgot. Yes please drop it back to me when you can. I recall you wanted to test the circuit breaker. It appears the repros have various CB properties and quality since that one tested good. I've had other HL switches act like Flashers!

Speaking of switches, another one of those cheap repros was on this '67. This time the stoplight switch. I reinstalled the pedal support yesterday also, and tested the stoplight switch before installation.

Failed! It tested OPEN, always! This car had no stop lights before it came here. I can't remember if Bob said it was a problem or not. But then again, you don't know as you can't see them coming on when driving unless it's at night and you look back to check.

Here it is. You can see whey it didn't work. Three contact points were missing. 2 went flying when I popped the lid and one fell on the bench. I just came back from NAPA to get a new one, Part# ECH SL169, and when I looked at it, it was identical to the bad one I have. I passed on it and will get a better replacement, or look for a NOS original. If I find a used one I can take it apart to repair/clean. I forget the part# so I'll have to research.

Bad Poor quality switch.....
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Rich

[Richard M.]

Re: 1967 Body Lift for Chassis & Frame Restoration

Yesterday was frustrating as everything I touched seemed to have a issue. But this is all typical on a 48 year old automobile.

When I reinstalled the pedal support I found I had the incorrect hardware fro the engine bay side. I finally found the original nuts in a bag marked for the Master Cylinder mount, which was wrong. My pictures showed that whoever assembled it in the past, took the nuts for the upper studs and used them to mount the MC to the Brake Booster. They used flatwashers and regular nuts for the studs. This car has J50 Power Brakes, and the MC hardware to Booster should be LW and Nut, not flange nut.

The flange nut with flat backsides is part# 1361640. Here's the AIM drawings for reference.....

Standard Brake AIM drawing. You can see the Item 21 nut.
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J50 drawing, not showing it installed which is a bit confusing.
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136140
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I got them installed after a blackening treatment assuming originally black phosphate. Note that the stud on the outward side may appear shorter when the nuts are tightened, but I discovered that the internal firewall reinforcement makes it appear shorter once the nuts are tightened. You can see the "sandwich" effect in the photo below on the right. I ended up taking it apart and checking that the inner flange of the support wasn't crushing the insulation. It wasn't. I was tricked into that because the stud seemed shorter. I put it back together again and it was fine. Frustrating little nuts.
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More troubles......
So then I went to clean the tach and speedo cables to ready installation. Someone it the past used grease on the speedo cable, and it was a mess. I think they used a grease gun and just pumped a pint inside the cable. This caused a major problem in the speedometer which was repaired last year.
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This speedo was corrected when I restored the speedometer some time ago, but the cable wasn't properly cleaned out by the installer up north and started creeping up into the speedo head again. There was so much grease in the past, it was dripping down on top of the cluster/dash support crossbar(yellow box in pic below). This car has A31 Power Windows, and the PW harness runs on top of the crossbar behind the cluster on it's way to the console switches. The harness was covered with grease and a oily film. It took a while to clean the mess.
When I pulled the cluster now(a year later), the grease was still working it's way inside the speedo head.
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Now on to the next issue......Transistorized Ignition.
I finally got to take a close look at the TI module mounted up front next to the grille. It looked original, albeit some newer 1/4-20 TR headmarked bolts holding it in. I removed it for inspection and preparation for using it in the engine break-in on the restored chassis. I have to make up a engine harness to run the engine with the TI box.

Bare fiberglass behind the hardware in the wheelwell.
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This appears to be original, but it may be a OTC replacement as it has some features to help identify it as such.
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I opened it for inspection. Original style circuit board.
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For longevity and future reliability, I am acquiring a new internal module from K & B via my supplier. I have used these many times in the past and have had very satisfactory results. Plus K & B has a lifetime warranty on their TI Module.

However, while back in the engine bay, I got a surprise when I was ready to pull the nice original TI harness out for use later on the engine run up. A large fray with a bare spot in the main power feed wire. New harness on the way.
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I plan to replace the lower skirts seals and these are hard as a rock. Replacement in hand and staple fun later.
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So I decided to go back to less stressful tasks for the rest of the afternoon like media blasting, refinishing, and installing various tidbits I previously removed for refinishing.

Original all cleaned after these pics and painted semi-gloss and will detail the White letters by hand while not caffeinated.
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Accelerator parts. There was blackout paint, red primer splats and remnants of the heavy sealant all over the throttle arm. I was under the understanding that the arm was installed after blackout, but it appears it was installed before the heavy sealant was applied to the firewall. This is observation, not fact. Opinions of original process? The JG makes no mention of sealant application time frame and if it may hit the arm or not.
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I cleaned all hardware, applied black phosphate appearance to the internal lever, and cad appearance to the arm. I don't really like the arm result so I may get it plated.
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More later...
Rich

[Richard M.]

Re: 1967 Body Lift for Chassis & Frame Restoration

While STILL waiting for the engine machine shop due to their internal delays and their supplier delays for new valve guides and other parts, I have been busy with other body restoration tasks. As I go through various areas, I have seen many things that needed attention. This has created some new discoveries that I'm thankful to correct now. Prior years have also shown some shortcut activity which I am now correcting.

I kept looking at the heater floor diverter and had to do something with it before the harness went in. I cleaned the metal, sanded, masked the FG areas, and repainted the metal low gloss black as original. Looks much better.
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In the process of installing the new Dash Harness, I found that with the addition of A31(PW) and U15(Speed Minder), that a few of the clips holding the wiring on the dash reinforcements were either missing or improperly placed. This left the wires loosely attached and prone to falling and potential rubbing of sharp metal edges. I referred to the AIM, which had individual references for each harness, but no diagram for all inclusive. I did what I thought would be typical.

U15 and A31 wiring. Org & Wht wires go to the buzzer mounted under the reinforcement. One attach bolt is different. This is to capture the Dash harness ground wire later. Red lead is A31, Org lead is U15. Both plug into the ACC terminals in the fuse panel.
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A31 continues to the Pass side and eventually to the right door. Dash harness extension wires for glove box & courtesy lamps shown also. I used the string I left in the pillars for the door switches to feed the wires through. Note all the clips to hold the wires and keep from drooping down. There is also a special clip(3rd photo) to bring the A31 harness down to the floor under the carpet to get to the Console area for the PW switch. Power to A31 comes from a special connector made to plug into the Dash Harness Brown wire, and U69 Capacitor.
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A31 harness ACC Brown wire connector.
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I added several missing U69(Radio) suppression capacitors to the cluster. The Ammeter Capacitor is still missing and I'm trying to locate a original. That can be installed easily later as it's at the bottom of the cluster. I also removed the reproduction Ignition switch plug housing and replaced it with the original opaque white housing with it's locking tabs.
Original Ign Sw housing. Notice the rubber insulator molded onto the Pink ignition wire. I suspect the rubber sleeve was to aid in preventing "hotwiring". IMO, a paper clip would push right through so it probably didn't really deter too many thieves back then.
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Repro housing, and the original replaced onto the new harness. I installed a rubber sleeve on the Pink wire before insertion for that "TFP" look.
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I added the capacitors for the Park Brake Lamp and ACC circuits. I deviated from the norm and put a small piece of tape over the brass nail on that plastic clip shown. If it was to touch the cluster housing ground when the Park brake/PDS warning lamp is on, it could short circuit.
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The Cluster and Harness was installed as a assembly. I tested all lamps on the bench using a battery/circuit breaker feed. The original GE #257 flasher bulb failed when tested it, but I had a spare. I then set the cluster/harness assembly in position, fed the Fuse panel and wire bundles through the openings, then used my five 8" 1/4-20 bolts to support it while connecting all wiring and cables.
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Here are the A31(Red) and U15(Org) feeds, circuit breakers and associated connections. The lower 40A Circuit Breaker is for the Headlight Door motors. The one above is for A31. There is also a relay mounted above the A31 breaker, very difficult to get at. You can barely see it in the 3rd photo below just above the courtesy lamp. The 2 Red leads for the Headlight Motor breaker are 2 different lengths. The shorter red wire is the "BAT" feed, short lug on the breaker. The longer red lead is the output of the breaker which goes out to the motors via the HL motor doors underdash switch.
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Under cluster photos. The cluster is being held by the long bolts so I can connect the speedo/tach cables and U15 plug(White Wire with black connetor). Oil line can connect later as it's at the bottom and relatively easy to get at. Last photo is from the Pass side looking at the clock and console wiring. THis area take some dexterity to get everything connected.
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The U15 Buzzer inboard mount screw and Ground wire. There is a lock washer above the lug, as described in the AIM.
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I fed the harness bundle through the firewall and into the engine bay, connected the plugs to the wiper motor and Purple wire solenoid plug, etc. I used the original large grommet with it's traces of sealant as original, orienting the "drips" toward the ground. I added some 3M Strip caulk(dum-dum) behind it also. It took some soapy water to help get the grommet installed back into the firewall hole. I also replaced the defective TI harness and attached the proper harness ties as opposed to the "tie-wraps" that were on it before. I then noticed the engine harness ground lug at the voltage regulator. I noticed the lug was loose. It was attached to the wrong place.....the rubberized mount bolt. I wonder if this caused some problems before. It should be attached to the side of the regulator through a bolt, where the radio capacitor also mounts.
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After a little stretching and rearranging of the engine harness, it is now where it should be, a good tight ground connection. Note the AIM shows no lock washer there. A error in the AIM?
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More miscellaneous "fixes"......

Inner skirt seals. I used the original staple holes, even where they originally "goofed". I remove the old staples, tape the new seal up, poke through the holes to mark the new seal, and simply push the staples through and squeeze them with pliers. I have to touch-up the shiny staples on the control arm skirt seals with some black paint later. These were replaced some time ago.
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Glove box frame surface rusted and scratched pieces media blasted and refinished. I also fixed the missing captive nut hardware, found when I removed it from the dash.
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===
Rich

[Leif A.]

Re: 1967 Body Lift for Chassis & Frame Restoration

Great pics, as always, Rich. Would you take a pic of the VR from straight on now that you have connected the alt ground to the correct (capacitor) location on the VR. I had the same issue with the ground wire on the new harness being about 1 1/2" short and routed the best I could (see attached). Thanks and keep up the terrific work.

[Richard M.]

Re: 1967 Body Lift for Chassis & Frame Restoration

Leif, Yours looks fine. That ground wire on all forward harnesses is quite short. Why it wasn't originally a few inches longer was likely a cost issue. Similar to servicing the cluster bulbs after it's in, very tight in there.

I think they put this one on the wrong place thinking is wouldn't make it to the proper place. Here are a couple of pics I had left over.

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edit....A different car(blue '67) with a new forward harness from a few years ago pictured below. This one came from M & H and had a longer Ground wire. The one on this black car, above, was replaced before but I'm unsure who the manufacturer was. LL I'd guess.
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Below is the original Forward harness I removed from that blue '67. I think I still have it and can take a measurement of the ground wire.
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The original also had a separate Fusible Link at the buss bar connection at the horn relay. Reproductions don't have that, but instead a direct wired non-removable link.

This might also be a good time to show that some wiring diagrams have erroneous information for the Ground connection there at the Horn Relay. It shows a direct connection short between 12V and ground at the relay. Enclosed are some notes in my files to help avoid disasters.
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[Leif A.]

Re: 1967 Body Lift for Chassis & Frame Restoration

Thanks, Rich. Mine is an LL harness.

[Richard M.]

Re: 1967 Body Lift for Chassis & Frame Restoration

Yesterday in between stormy weather and lights flickering, I got the wiring completed and restored a few small items.

The Headlight Rollup switch was previously intermittent. I don't care for the reproductuons, and these are relativly simple to repair.

I cleaned the contacts using fine sandpaper, stripped and repainted the housing using a low-gloss black(which should match the cluster finish), scraped and wiped the "HEADLIGHTS" chrome letters free of the paint, reassembled and installed.

Here are a few photos....
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The clips can only go in one way. Check the tabs to make sure they'll clip into the housing.
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I tested both contacts using my ohm-meter. The brass terminal is the common.
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Bend the upper tabs a bit in to capture the harness plug.
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Plug the connector to the switch. Install the ears ABOVE the cluster edge, screws exposed under the cluster only. Flatnuts above the ears of the switch.
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Also attached the Odometer cable with a new knob. Note the AIM is wrong in it's view. It shows the fitting at the back of the cluster directly behind the speedometer. It's actually closer to the tach side. It routes through the dash reinforcement hole, then over the pedal support and down to the bracket.
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Restored Brake Release cable and new grommet at the firewall. These were installed at blackout so I'll dab a little black around it later in the engine bay.
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Restored Glovebox back in with all the right hardware and lamp.
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Looking like a Interior again....
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My pretty black doggie helper. She is great company when I'm working on this pretty black car.
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===

[Richard M.]

Re: 1967 Body Lift for Chassis & Frame Restoration

Late in the day I got a call from the engine machine shop that the heads are done and the rebuild went fine. New valve guides arrived last week and were installed, slight regrind for the valves to mate with the new guides, pressure tested and complete. I will be at the shop tomorrow to assist with assembly to the engine. One of the machinists is on vacation so I offered to go down to help. The lead machinist gladly accepted my offer. The AMA specs lash at Intake 0.024", Exhaust 0.028". I need to check the Cam Card as well to verify it is the same. I have installed some cams that had non-stock lash specs, even though the grind was to match spec. IIRC, I also need to add ~0.001" to the lash when cold to allow for expansion when hot. Any feedback on this is welcome.

Edit.....According to Crane, the recommended cold lash is +0.002"

http://www.cranecams.com/pdf-tech-tips/mech-lift.pdf

===========

Miscellaneous activity on the body today while waiting for that glorious phone call......

Cleaned and refreshed the antenna ground plane then reinstalled with a new ground strap. I replicated the original bends in the new strap.
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The tunnel insulation was deteriorated, but before I replaced it I had to clean the greasy mess nearby. I had to work on this under the dolly on the floor. The transmission pinion seal had been leaking in the past and sprayed a generous amount of lube under the floors and tunnel. I had to use a plastic scraper to remove the heavy deposits, then washed using rags and industrial strength 409 cleaner. Even that product had trouble breaking up the grease. This was not a fun task. My neck is sore tonight.

Before....They forgot to bend the a few tabs of the clips at the rear locations. The glue originally used was dried out.
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After cleaning....
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Replacement insulation....Fortunately, all of the clip tabs were intact and bent over without a problem.
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I could then remove the shifter boot mount plate, removed the rust, then refinished and reinstalled.
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While under the area I noticed they forgot to swedge one of the seat reinforcement rivets. It had been like this for 48 years. Will fix that after refinishing the reinforcements later. I chuckled when I saw that.
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To rest my back and neck from being twisted up earlier, I decided to sit at the bench and ready the re-sleeved master cylinder for rebuild. I started by replacing the brass output port seats. The seat kits come with a self-threading screw to remove them.
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After a thorough cleaning and wash in warm soapy water, then a drying out using compressed air, I then installed the new seats using clean spare flare fittings.
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I cleaned it again, then I refinished in semi-gloss black after masking off the machined surfaces. These were originally painted before the machining process. Probably to minimize corrosion while waiting their turn.
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Continued MC rebuild later. Engine day is next.

Rich

[Richard M.]

Re: 1967 Body Lift for Chassis & Frame Restoration

Engine day yesterday and today. Heads completed and installed using Felpro composition gaskets. Our reproduction Intake Manifold needed to be milled to fit the block and heads, which obviously over time have reduced the overall height of the rotating assembly. Yesterday afternoon we called it a day after taking measurements and test fitting over and over again.

It was decided to just mill and test-fit, mill and test-fit. It's actually much easier and reduces the risk of taking too much. It is however more time consuming.

So today the intake was setup on the milling/decking table. I got there around 3PM and he was still working on it in between other customer interruptions. His partner is away this week.

Here are a few photos from yesterday before the work began on the intake. You can see it needed a fair amount of milling.

We cleaned the block deck surfaces and heads. A final check for foreign objects in each bank and the heads went on and were torqued in 3 stages. We stopped at 75 lbs/ft. Spec is 80 but I wanted to reduce risk. We used new bolts, dipped in Permatex.
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We then test fit the Intake. Not happening, as i suspected.
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I carefully filed the edges to get it to eventually sit in the valley for a better idea of machining depth.
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Today it was milled on the sides and the ends for proper fit. I forget how much was finally removed but the fit is much better and the bolt holes now line up.

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Also took a quick video of the machine running.....

https://youtu.be/ZBGT54_oQzY

However, there was one issue that became apparent that it was fortunate this intake didn't fit initially. This is what we found when I removed the carburetors and splash heat shield.

P8120010.jpgNNOOOOOO........look more closely.

Ceramic Tumbler Stones. There were several under the center carb in the heat chamber area and in the crossover area. I have no idea where the rust in the shield came from.
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Before I went to the machine shop I managed to get the body seat belts and seat reinforcements off for refreshening. They were a bit unsightly. The Passenger side Seat Belt anchor stud broke away from it's reinforcement when I removed the nut inside the car. It is now re-welded. All pieces will be media blasted and refinished then reinstalled using original type soft aluminum rivets.
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===

[Don H.]

Re: 1967 Body Lift for Chassis & Frame Restoration

Just an unbelievable degree of attention to detail on this restoration Rich. If you are being paid under $1 million for this job, it is not enough.

[Richard M.]

Re: 1967 Body Lift for Chassis & Frame Restoration

Just an unbelievable degree of attention to detail on this restoration Rich. If you are being paid under $1 million for this job, it is not enough.

LOLOLOL - Thanks Don.

===

I got back with the engine about a hour ago. I spent the afternoon at the engine shop. Thankfully, the machinist was determined to help get the Intake set right and wanted to mill a little more off the ends for a better gap at the china walls. We got that worked out, then the rains came again. I didn't want to load the engine in the truck with it raining, so we decided to do some more assembly work. I loaded the new Melling pushrods, installed the rockers and performed the lash measurements. I used assembly lube on all moving surfaces.

The cam I used in this build is the Sealed Power CS 165R Mechanical Lifter camshaft. Lash specs, as suspected, are different from the original AMA stock spec. Intake is 0.020", Exhaust is 0.024". (Stock is I 24 / E 28). Using a go-no-go feeler gauge borrowed from the machinist, I set them to 0.021" and 0.025". I added a thousandth to the cam lash spec. It is sometimes recommended by some to add two thousandths to lash when cold. However, here in Florida the temperature in the shop today was about 95 with a heat index of around 105. The AC wasn't working today, only fans.

Figuring the engine was already over half way to temperature normalizing, I dropped that one thousandth.

Rich
ps I'll post up today's pictures in the morning.

[Richard M.]

Re: 1967 Body Lift for Chassis & Frame Restoration

Pictures of the next issue in a separate thread for future reference here....

https://www.forums.ncrs.org/showthread.php?111463-Big-Block-Head-Intake-Bolt-Thread-Repair&p=751745#post751745

[Richard M.]

Re: 1967 Body Lift for Chassis & Frame Restoration

Back where I left off a week ago after repairing the heads. Heads reassembled using the 2nd new set of head gaskets, properly torqued, pushrods installed and lash set. I reinstalled the various block plugs and masked some areas. I am NOT going to paint the engine with the aluminum intake installed as originally done. And I will not install exhaust manifolds before orange paint is applied. I will use a high temp POR-15 product there for longevity. Factory type overspray and excess coverage on this rebuild is deliberately not happening. Strategic points-hit decisions are applicable.

I removed the harmonic balancer, cleaned the assembly with solvents, scuffed and wiped the glossy items and painted the engine assembly with several coats. I'll paint the water pump and balancer separately then install and shoot the gaskets and bolts with more orange later.

Scuffed, wiped, cleaned, masked. Valve covers will be shot separately later, just used to cover the heads for the paint job.
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It's amazing how long it takes to get paint in all of the nooks and crannies.
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More assembly later.

Rich

[Richard M.]

Re: 1967 Body Lift for Chassis & Frame Restoration

Reinstalled balancer using proper method of using a puller. I thought I had one, but didn't for the BB. It uses a 1/2"-20 NF thread.

I cut a 1/2-20 bolt head and did a quick rethread on the other end to 1/2"-13, cut a screwdriver slot on the end and good to go. Threaded it into the crankshaft until snug, then used varying thicknesses of washers until it got home. Installed the bolt and torqued to 85 lbs/ft while holding the balancer with a bar through 3 long 3/8" bolts int the hub.

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Next to go on was the water pump. I acquired a more correctly dated unit as the one on the engine was over a year out. However, before paint and assembly I didn't like the look of the bypass outlet tube. This can be nasty work but it had to go. I cut the end off and sliced the tube lengthwise at 12 and 6 oclock using a saw blade. I ended up removed the backplate so I could blow out the debris when done.
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The replacements outlets are 3/4"(0.752" actual), but these pump outlet holes are actually a bit bigger on these pumps for some reason, around 0.760". I've had to do this before. I have a small mandrel just for this task. I insert and drive it down into the tube downward over a wood block to enlarge the OD. I opened it to about 0.762" or so for a good press fit, then added a little permatex for a good cured seal and drove it to the proper depth.
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A airgun to clean anything out and a look-see of the rebuild and curiosity of the impeller and overall build. I prefer original cast iron impellers to the stamped steel units and was glad to see cast iron. I didn't have a rear cover gasket so I made a new one up from thick stock, sealed it all up with permatex, masked, painted, and ready for assembly to the engine.
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..............
Then when I was walking by the engine I noticed a broken 3/8" bolt deep down in the hole at the front where the alternator bracket mounts. Now if I saw this before, I thought, I could've put that head on the right side of the engine where no one would ever know......nahhh, I couldn't do that. I'd have drilled it out anyways.

This is a blind hole, no big deal I thought, just step drill it out. Well as it often goes, as I was step drilling, the broken piece freed up and screwed itself right into the end of the hole. Only me.

Thankfully, my left hand reversing 9/32" drill bit walked it right back out after a shot of Freeze-Off inside. I would recommend you get a few of these left hand drill bits and keep handy for times like this. I have several sizes and they certainly save trouble sometimes.
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Rich

[Richard M.]

Re: 1967 Body Lift for Chassis & Frame Restoration

Edit, that broken bolt I removed is not used for the alternator bracket on this Standard Steering equipped car, but it's for the alternator bracket on a N40 setup which is a totally different configuration. But at least it's out now and like it should be. I didn't like the looks of it.

More assembly today. A question.....

P8240015.jpgP8240016.jpg
The threaded ball socket for the clutch cross shaft mounted to the block. JG doesn't specify painted or natural steel. Was it painted at engine assembly with the other items? I'm assuming it was on a Tonawanda built JE coded engine as it was only available with manual transmission.

Rich