Do I need to double clutch?

[Bill H.]

Re: Do I need to double clutch?

Bill, it's a 1967 convertible. It seems as if the brake pedal is much more forward positioned compared to the Accelerator and, To make things worse I have small feet. I'll probably have to practice on another car but I am anxious to learn more about this.

Well, I'd try it in my 67 but it doesn't have pedals right now.

What Duke said (along with the other good points) about learning double clutching first is the easiest way to do it.

IF you have another car to practice with, what I teach my students is to practice using the upper gears, 6-5 or 5-4. These are the much easier to work with. Guys who go into a parking lot trying to use the lower gears just get frustrated. You can work on downshifting on a highway/interstate (with no other vehicles close to you) easily.
You'll know you are getting it when the car neither speeds up or slows down as soon as you let the clutch out (revs matched correctly).
These downshifts can be as smooth as silk.

Having the brake pedal forward of the gas pedal does make it a tad harder but it still can be done. I'd suggest that you practice some in the 67 without the engine running.

Have fun.

[Bill H.]

Re: Do I need to double clutch?

Another example: The replacement (and known to be delicate) Borg-Warner T-50 five-speed in my Cosworth Vega has survived for over 70K miles including 5000 miles of race track hot-lapping. The original T-50 failed at 7K miles when first gear seized to the mainshaft, which was a common problem with the T-50 in the high-revving Cosworth.

BTW, the only vehicles I have ever owned that have/had near perfect pedal placement for heel-and-toe are my '91 MR2 and long gone '81 Diesel Rabbit both of which have small throttle pedals that pivot from above, and one of the worst layouts IMO are old Porsche 911s. Go figure!

Duke

Yea, rev matching doesn't spin up the input shaft.

You can tell a lot about a driver when you start pulling trannys apart.
Even on our dog ring transmissions, I like to get the drivers to dab the clutch even on an upshift , sort of a "shock absorber" affect.

I think the C4/5/6/7's have reasonable pedal placement. I find it easy to heel & toe in all of them (drove a C7 on the track last month). Too bad they aren't easily adjustable from the factory.

[Timothy B.]

Re: Do I need to double clutch?

You learn real fast if you ever drive a Mack truck, if you don't double clutch and spin it up it's not going in gear when downshifting. Going up in the gears is easier unless you are pulling a grade then you don't want to miss the gear but if you do just spin it a little faster then clutch and let it come down to engage.

[Stuart F.]

Re: Do I need to double clutch?

Having spent most of my youth driving 3 speeds (pre 1957), I learned to downshift even into non synchro first gear by simply holding my foot steady on the gas, clutch it quickly and pull into the next lower gear (2nd or 1st). The engine would assume the correct speed match (if done correctly). My joy used to be approaching the top of the hill leading down to my home at say one in the morning and let my 290 Fuelie scream at 6000 rpm + all the way down the hill in first gear. Did I mention it was my 56 Chevy with glass packs? The neighbors loved it.

This also came in handy when commandoes challenged you while rolling down the street at the speed limit (25mph).

Stu Fox