1967 Ball Joints

[Mike E.]

Re: 1967 Ball Joints

That looks great Mike. How did you compress your coil springs to get everything apart?

Thanks,

Don

I had the body off the chassis so taking things apart was easy, putting them back in not so much, I did it the way Ralph mentioned. Even using lots of grease on the treaded rod it was pretty much shot after installing the second spring. It was galled bad!

If I were to do it again I would try the method show in the tread linked below, by Patrick Boyd.

https://www.forums.ncrs.org/showthread.php?98327-Easy-way-to-install-coil-springs-in-bare-chassis&highlight=coil+spring+installation

Mike

[Stephen L.]

Re: 1967 Ball Joints

Mike, I hope you used grade 8 threaded rod!! The rods from LOWES can't take the forces and easily gall. The are also subject to breaking....

[Donald H.]

Re: 1967 Ball Joints

I had the body off the chassis so taking things apart was easy, putting them back in not so much, I did it the way Ralph mentioned. Even using lots of grease on the treaded rod it was pretty much shot after installing the second spring. It was galled bad!

If I were to do it again I would try the method show in the tread linked below, by Patrick Boyd.

https://www.forums.ncrs.org/showthread.php?98327-Easy-way-to-install-coil-springs-in-bare-chassis&highlight=coil+spring+installation

Mike

I looked at Pat's technique, but I don't have a bare frame. I'll look, but I'm not sure I can get to the frame enough to use his approach.

Don

[Joe L.]

Re: 1967 Ball Joints

Mike, I hope you used grade 8 threaded rod!! The rods from LOWES can't take the forces and easily gall. The are also subject to breaking....

Stephen-----


Yes, definitely, but grade 8 threaded rod can be hard-to-find in local hardware stores. My recommendation: use the rod from a high quality, internal type coil spring compressor. An additional advantage of this rod is that it uses an acme thread (with compatible nuts and thrust bearings supplied with the tool). Is a high quality, internal-type coil spring compressor expensive? Yes, it is but a lot less expensive than a long stay in the hospital or a funeral.

[Joe L.]

Re: 1967 Ball Joints

Good chance the original joints were manufactured by Moog.

Dick------


In this case, I don't think so. If they were manufactured by Moog, then they were of a different design than any they ever sold under their own brand.

Actually, I believe these ball joints were of internal GM manufacture, perhaps manufactured in whole or part at Chevrolet-Buffalo or some Inland-Fisher-Guide plant. Some of the part numbers used for these ball joints were Inland-Fisher-Guide part numbers and some were Chevrolet part numbers but I believe the Chevrolet part numbers were just part numbers for the Inland-Fisher-Guide part. The ball joints available under either division's part numbers were exactly the same in every way.

[Donald H.]

Re: 1967 Ball Joints

The only thing I have been able to find in threaded rod is at Grainger and it is 5/8-11 grade B7. I'm no engineer but from what I can find, B7 is close to grade 8. I.e., Tensile Strength of 133k versus 150k for grade 8.

By the way, can anyone recommend a good internal type coil spring compressor kit? Why not just use one of these?

Don

[Joe L.]

Re: 1967 Ball Joints

The only thing I have been able to find in threaded rod is at Grainger and it is 5/8-11 grade B7. I'm no engineer but from what I can find, B7 is close to grade 8. I.e., Tensile Strength of 133k versus 150k for grade 8.

By the way, can anyone recommend a good internal type coil spring compressor kit? Why not just use one of these?

Don

Don------


I think if you were to get one manufactured by K-D Tools or Lisle Tools you'll be in good shape. I don't think you need to go as far as Snap-On or Mac.

By the way, you can't really use one of these tools as-is for a Corvette. You need to modify it and, primarily use the center bolt. The existing "hook" ends just don't work with a Corvette although if you really struggle you can use them on one end only. I don't recommend it, though. I would not use a rental tool, though, because you have no way of knowing how abused to the tool is (and, therefore, how safety-compromised it might be).

I don't know anything about "B7" threaded rod so I cannot advise if it's suitable.

[James B.]

Re: 1967 Ball Joints

Don------


I think if you were to get one manufactured by K-D Tools or Lisle Tools you'll be in good shape. I don't think you need to go as far as Snap-On or Mac.

By the way, you can't really use one of these tools as-is for a Corvette. You need to modify it and, primarily use the center bolt. The existing "hook" ends just don't work with a Corvette although if you really struggle you can use them on one end only. I don't recommend it, though. I would not use a rental tool, though, because you have no way of knowing how abused to the tool is (and, therefore, how safety-compromised it might be).

I don't know anything about "B7" threaded rod so I cannot advise if it's suitable.

Joe, Can you share any details regarding the modification required to make an internal type compressor work for a Corvette? -Jim

[Jack H.]

Re: 1967 Ball Joints

The only thing I have been able to find in threaded rod is at Grainger and it is 5/8-11 grade B7. I'm no engineer but from what I can find, B7 is close to grade 8. I.e., Tensile Strength of 133k versus 150k for grade 8.

By the way, can anyone recommend a good internal type coil spring compressor kit? Why not just use one of these?

Don

From what I recall from my Materials classes, B7 is a high temperature application material. Probably better than Grade 2 or Grade 5 or the unrated stuff at big box stores, but its not Grade 8. It's kinda sad/disappointing that Grade 8 All-Thread is not easier to get.

FWIW, a quick web search found this (not sure about any minimums or shipping):

http://www.boltsplus.com/shop/catalog.aspx?CategoryId=FAF|ALL+THREAD+ROD|GRADE+B7+%2F+GRADE+8&custom1=&custom2=&custom3=&custom4=8&custom5=&custom6=6%27&custom7=&custom8=&custom9=&custom10=

Joe, Can you share any details regarding the modification required to make an internal type compressor work for a Corvette? -Jim

I think all Joe was suggesting was to use the threaded rod portion of the tool. As has been mentioned by someone already, many of the compressor tools use Acme (square) threads which are better suited for this compressing application than traditional fastener threads. That coupled with the fact that high grade threaded rod is apparently hard to find now?

[Stephen L.]

Re: 1967 Ball Joints

James Burell, I used an internal spring compressor in the photo configuration. Use the hooks from one end and the screw/bolt thru the shock tower hole. Before starting, insure that the hooks will pass thru the shock hole in the bottom "A" arm. You may have to slightly grind off the square corners of the hook holder and a small amount of the hole configuration on the "A" arm, which is not evident when the job is complete. The tips of the hooks will need to be slightly tapered for clearance between the coils when compressed. Neither "grinding" will compromise the tool integrity. Compressor made by OEM TOOLS #27035

[Joe L.]

Re: 1967 Ball Joints

Joe, Can you share any details regarding the modification required to make an internal type compressor work for a Corvette? -Jim

James-----


I've used a compressor modified pretty much like Stephen has pictured above. However, I installed it from the bottom and used a thick steel plate between the lower a-arm and the thrust bearing of the tool. It worked but it was a bear.

[James B.]

Re: 1967 Ball Joints

James-----


I've used a compressor modified pretty much like Stephen has pictured above. However, I installed it from the bottom and used a thick steel plate between the lower a-arm and the thrust bearing of the tool. It worked but it was a bear.

Joe and Stephen: Thanks for the response. -Jim