1967 Ball Joints
I've done a lot of research on the forum about ball joints. With the front jacked there some movement in the right front wheel when I move it up and down. The driver side seems solid. The upper ball joints are original and the lowers have been replaced. I know that the uppers don't normally wear out, but the boots on both sides are cracked and the grease just oozes out. Also the control arm bushings look to be pretty old. I'm thinking of replacing all upper and lower ball joints and control arm bushings. I don't plan to every have this car judged, so I was looking at Moog products. Anyone see anything wrong with my plan?Thanks,Don
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Don Harris
Current: 67 convertible Marina Blue L79
Former: 60 Red/Red, 2x4, 245hp (Regional and National Top Flight 2013), 66 coupe Nassau Blue, L79 (Chapter and Regional Top Flight 2017) -
Re: 1967 Ball Joints
Moog makes very good products. I would agree with you on replacing all four ball joints along with the control arm bushings. I don't know how many miles you have on your '67, but age alone will have deteriorated everything to the point that I would replace...we're talking a major safety issue here never mind the better handling and tire wear...IMHO. Sounds like you enjoy driving your car...make it safe.Leif
'67 Coupe L79, M21, C60, N14, N40, J50, A31, U69, A01, QB1
Top Flight 2017 Lone Star Regional -
Don Harris
Current: 67 convertible Marina Blue L79
Former: 60 Red/Red, 2x4, 245hp (Regional and National Top Flight 2013), 66 coupe Nassau Blue, L79 (Chapter and Regional Top Flight 2017)Comment
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Re: 1967 Ball Joints
Don------
If the rubber boots on the upper joints are cracked, then I'd say you need to replace them. There are no replacement boots for these original ball joints that I know of. Plus, these things are almost 50 years old. I'd replace them. For a non-judged car, the Moog parts will be fine. In fact, even if the car was judged I doubt that the Moog joints would make the difference between Top Flight or not.In Appreciation of John HinckleyComment
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Re: 1967 Ball Joints
The original boots have a metalball joints 004.jpgball joints 005.jpgball joints 006.jpg retension ring, the Zip aftermarket do not.Comment
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Re: 1967 Ball Joints
Good chance the original joints were manufactured by Moog.Dick WhittingtonComment
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Re: 1967 Ball Joints
Actually, the manufacturer would be Federal Mogul. Moog is one of their brands, but going back over 20 years they may have been independent, but were scooped up in the parts manufacturing consolidation that's been going on for over 20 years.
Most of the mechanical parts brands of yore are now owned by either F-M or Dana Corp.
DukeComment
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Re: 1967 Ball Joints
In 1998, Federal Mogul acquired Cooper Industries which at the time owned Moog. And, you're correct Duke when you say that most mechanical part brands are owned by either F-M or Dana.Leif
'67 Coupe L79, M21, C60, N14, N40, J50, A31, U69, A01, QB1
Top Flight 2017 Lone Star RegionalComment
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Re: 1967 Ball Joints
Donald I just went through that myself for my 66 and in the end wound up with American made Raybestos Pro's (Spicer).
The only reason I didn't go with Moog was due to the "high hat" design of the uppers which is quite obvious in appearance whereas the Raybestos uppers are closer to the originals in that respect.
The Raybestos cost more than Moogs but if you get them at Rock Auto it's not that bad.
I had my A arms restored at Bairs and supplied the ball joints which he credited accordingly and had them riveted in place but they do come with hardware for a "bolt on" application.
The part numbers are: 500-1010 (uppers) & 505-1016 (lowers) Note: those are P/N's are for the Pro Series which are made in USA, the service grade version carries the same number followed with an B at the end of the number which are made in China!
Good luck!
RalphComment
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Don Harris
Current: 67 convertible Marina Blue L79
Former: 60 Red/Red, 2x4, 245hp (Regional and National Top Flight 2013), 66 coupe Nassau Blue, L79 (Chapter and Regional Top Flight 2017)Comment
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Re: 1967 Ball Joints
A slightly different subject. I'm trying to decide to go ahead and remove the A Arms and replace the bushings. I think the current bushing may be original or very old. The uppers are correct with the extended rubber. They are all there, no missing chunks or really bad cracks. But there is cracking and checking of the rubber. This is a much bigger job than just replacing the ball joints. I did it with a neighbor on his 69, so I know what is involved and I have a 20 ton press.
When I did my 1960 restoration I used a 1/2" threaded rod and plywood plates to compress the coil spring. That was with a bare frame and rebuilding the chassis. I'm hoping that I can use this same technique on the 67 with the body in place by just removing the shocks.
Just that my car will be down for longer and it's just getting to good driving weather
DonDon Harris
Current: 67 convertible Marina Blue L79
Former: 60 Red/Red, 2x4, 245hp (Regional and National Top Flight 2013), 66 coupe Nassau Blue, L79 (Chapter and Regional Top Flight 2017)Comment
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Re: 1967 Ball Joints
Don,A slightly different subject. I'm trying to decide to go ahead and remove the A Arms and replace the bushings. I think the current bushing may be original or very old. The uppers are correct with the extended rubber. They are all there, no missing chunks or really bad cracks. But there is cracking and checking of the rubber. This is a much bigger job than just replacing the ball joints. I did it with a neighbor on his 69, so I know what is involved and I have a 20 ton press.
When I did my 1960 restoration I used a 1/2" threaded rod and plywood plates to compress the coil spring. That was with a bare frame and rebuilding the chassis. I'm hoping that I can use this same technique on the 67 with the body in place by just removing the shocks.
Just that my car will be down for longer and it's just getting to good driving weather
Don
I replaced my '65 bushings with Raybestos Pro's from Rock Auto. I believe mine were the originals, I've owned the car for 38 years. Here are a couple of shots comparing old verses new when installed on the lower control arm. The uppers were about the same.
MikeComment
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Don Harris
Current: 67 convertible Marina Blue L79
Former: 60 Red/Red, 2x4, 245hp (Regional and National Top Flight 2013), 66 coupe Nassau Blue, L79 (Chapter and Regional Top Flight 2017)Comment
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Re: 1967 Ball Joints
[QUOTE How did you compress your coil springs to get everything apart?
Don,
There are several methods available to you; for me, I was ONLY comfortable with using a 5/8 X 2' long threaded rod (with grease) in place of the shock absorber with an appropriate size plate on the bottom side and large hardened washer on the top secured with 5/8 coupler nuts on both ends, additionally I kept the floor jack under the lower A arm at all times. In my case the spring was a F41 which are are considerably shorter than standard springs and I believe actually made the process easier.
What ever method you use just be careful.
RalphComment
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