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1967 Ball Joints

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  • Donald H.
    Extremely Frequent Poster
    • November 2, 2009
    • 2580

    1967 Ball Joints

    I've done a lot of research on the forum about ball joints. With the front jacked there some movement in the right front wheel when I move it up and down. The driver side seems solid. The upper ball joints are original and the lowers have been replaced. I know that the uppers don't normally wear out, but the boots on both sides are cracked and the grease just oozes out. Also the control arm bushings look to be pretty old. I'm thinking of replacing all upper and lower ball joints and control arm bushings. I don't plan to every have this car judged, so I was looking at Moog products. Anyone see anything wrong with my plan?Thanks,Don
    Don Harris
    Current: 67 convertible Marina Blue L79
    Former: 60 Red/Red, 2x4, 245hp (Regional and National Top Flight 2013), 66 coupe Nassau Blue, L79 (Chapter and Regional Top Flight 2017)
  • Leif A.
    Extremely Frequent Poster
    • August 31, 1997
    • 3628

    #2
    Re: 1967 Ball Joints

    Moog makes very good products. I would agree with you on replacing all four ball joints along with the control arm bushings. I don't know how many miles you have on your '67, but age alone will have deteriorated everything to the point that I would replace...we're talking a major safety issue here never mind the better handling and tire wear...IMHO. Sounds like you enjoy driving your car...make it safe.
    Leif
    '67 Coupe L79, M21, C60, N14, N40, J50, A31, U69, A01, QB1
    Top Flight 2017 Lone Star Regional

    Comment

    • Donald H.
      Extremely Frequent Poster
      • November 2, 2009
      • 2580

      #3
      Re: 1967 Ball Joints

      Originally posted by Leif Anderson (29632)
      Moog makes very good products. I would agree with you on replacing all four ball joints along with the control arm bushings. I don't know how many miles you have on your '67, but age alone will have deteriorated everything to the point that I would replace...we're talking a major safety issue here never mind the better handling and tire wear...IMHO. Sounds like you enjoy driving your car...make it safe.
      Thanks. The weather got up to 60 today and sunny, so my wife and I went for a drive. And, yes we do enjoy the car.

      Don
      Don Harris
      Current: 67 convertible Marina Blue L79
      Former: 60 Red/Red, 2x4, 245hp (Regional and National Top Flight 2013), 66 coupe Nassau Blue, L79 (Chapter and Regional Top Flight 2017)

      Comment

      • Joe L.
        Beyond Control Poster
        • February 1, 1988
        • 43221

        #4
        Re: 1967 Ball Joints

        Originally posted by Donald Harris (51003)
        I've done a lot of research on the forum about ball joints. With the front jacked there some movement in the right front wheel when I move it up and down. The driver side seems solid. The upper ball joints are original and the lowers have been replaced. I know that the uppers don't normally wear out, but the boots on both sides are cracked and the grease just oozes out. Also the control arm bushings look to be pretty old. I'm thinking of replacing all upper and lower ball joints and control arm bushings. I don't plan to every have this car judged, so I was looking at Moog products. Anyone see anything wrong with my plan?Thanks,Don
        Don------


        If the rubber boots on the upper joints are cracked, then I'd say you need to replace them. There are no replacement boots for these original ball joints that I know of. Plus, these things are almost 50 years old. I'd replace them. For a non-judged car, the Moog parts will be fine. In fact, even if the car was judged I doubt that the Moog joints would make the difference between Top Flight or not.
        In Appreciation of John Hinckley

        Comment

        • Bill H.
          Expired
          • August 8, 2011
          • 439

          #5
          Re: 1967 Ball Joints

          Originally posted by Joe Lucia (12484)
          Don------


          If the rubber boots on the upper joints are cracked, then I'd say you need to replace them. There are no replacement boots for these original ball joints that I know of.
          Joe, the boots are available from Zip, p/n SU-1032 . I have a set in the shop but haven't compared them to original ones yet. Listed as fitting 63-82 so, they might differ from original.

          Comment

          • Mark S.
            Expired
            • February 1, 2002
            • 110

            #6
            Re: 1967 Ball Joints

            The original boots have a metalball joints 004.jpgball joints 005.jpgball joints 006.jpg retension ring, the Zip aftermarket do not.

            Comment

            • Dick W.
              Former NCRS Director Region IV
              • June 30, 1985
              • 10483

              #7
              Re: 1967 Ball Joints

              Good chance the original joints were manufactured by Moog.
              Dick Whittington

              Comment

              • Duke W.
                Beyond Control Poster
                • January 1, 1993
                • 15671

                #8
                Re: 1967 Ball Joints

                Actually, the manufacturer would be Federal Mogul. Moog is one of their brands, but going back over 20 years they may have been independent, but were scooped up in the parts manufacturing consolidation that's been going on for over 20 years.

                Most of the mechanical parts brands of yore are now owned by either F-M or Dana Corp.

                Duke

                Comment

                • Leif A.
                  Extremely Frequent Poster
                  • August 31, 1997
                  • 3628

                  #9
                  Re: 1967 Ball Joints

                  In 1998, Federal Mogul acquired Cooper Industries which at the time owned Moog. And, you're correct Duke when you say that most mechanical part brands are owned by either F-M or Dana.
                  Leif
                  '67 Coupe L79, M21, C60, N14, N40, J50, A31, U69, A01, QB1
                  Top Flight 2017 Lone Star Regional

                  Comment

                  • Ralph B.
                    Expired
                    • July 30, 2008
                    • 178

                    #10
                    Re: 1967 Ball Joints

                    Donald I just went through that myself for my 66 and in the end wound up with American made Raybestos Pro's (Spicer).

                    The only reason I didn't go with Moog was due to the "high hat" design of the uppers which is quite obvious in appearance whereas the Raybestos uppers are closer to the originals in that respect.

                    The Raybestos cost more than Moogs but if you get them at Rock Auto it's not that bad.

                    I had my A arms restored at Bairs and supplied the ball joints which he credited accordingly and had them riveted in place but they do come with hardware for a "bolt on" application.

                    The part numbers are: 500-1010 (uppers) & 505-1016 (lowers) Note: those are P/N's are for the Pro Series which are made in USA, the service grade version carries the same number followed with an B at the end of the number which are made in China!

                    Good luck!
                    Ralph

                    Comment

                    • Donald H.
                      Extremely Frequent Poster
                      • November 2, 2009
                      • 2580

                      #11
                      Re: 1967 Ball Joints

                      Originally posted by Ralph Benedetti (49275)
                      Donald I just went through that myself for my 66 and in the end wound up with American made Raybestos Pro's (Spicer).

                      The only reason I didn't go with Moog was due to the "high hat" design of the uppers which is quite obvious in appearance whereas the Raybestos uppers are closer to the originals in that respect.

                      The Raybestos cost more than Moogs but if you get them at Rock Auto it's not that bad.

                      I had my A arms restored at Bairs and supplied the ball joints which he credited accordingly and had them riveted in place but they do come with hardware for a "bolt on" application.

                      The part numbers are: 500-1010 (uppers) & 505-1016 (lowers) Note: those are P/N's are for the Pro Series which are made in USA, the service grade version carries the same number followed with an B at the end of the number which are made in China!

                      Good luck!
                      Ralph
                      Thanks Ralph, I'll take a look at the Raybestos. I saw them listed when I was searching the Rock Auto site.
                      Don Harris
                      Current: 67 convertible Marina Blue L79
                      Former: 60 Red/Red, 2x4, 245hp (Regional and National Top Flight 2013), 66 coupe Nassau Blue, L79 (Chapter and Regional Top Flight 2017)

                      Comment

                      • Donald H.
                        Extremely Frequent Poster
                        • November 2, 2009
                        • 2580

                        #12
                        Re: 1967 Ball Joints

                        A slightly different subject. I'm trying to decide to go ahead and remove the A Arms and replace the bushings. I think the current bushing may be original or very old. The uppers are correct with the extended rubber. They are all there, no missing chunks or really bad cracks. But there is cracking and checking of the rubber. This is a much bigger job than just replacing the ball joints. I did it with a neighbor on his 69, so I know what is involved and I have a 20 ton press.

                        When I did my 1960 restoration I used a 1/2" threaded rod and plywood plates to compress the coil spring. That was with a bare frame and rebuilding the chassis. I'm hoping that I can use this same technique on the 67 with the body in place by just removing the shocks.

                        Just that my car will be down for longer and it's just getting to good driving weather

                        Don
                        Don Harris
                        Current: 67 convertible Marina Blue L79
                        Former: 60 Red/Red, 2x4, 245hp (Regional and National Top Flight 2013), 66 coupe Nassau Blue, L79 (Chapter and Regional Top Flight 2017)

                        Comment

                        • Mike E.
                          Very Frequent User
                          • June 24, 2012
                          • 920

                          #13
                          Re: 1967 Ball Joints

                          Originally posted by Donald Harris (51003)
                          A slightly different subject. I'm trying to decide to go ahead and remove the A Arms and replace the bushings. I think the current bushing may be original or very old. The uppers are correct with the extended rubber. They are all there, no missing chunks or really bad cracks. But there is cracking and checking of the rubber. This is a much bigger job than just replacing the ball joints. I did it with a neighbor on his 69, so I know what is involved and I have a 20 ton press.

                          When I did my 1960 restoration I used a 1/2" threaded rod and plywood plates to compress the coil spring. That was with a bare frame and rebuilding the chassis. I'm hoping that I can use this same technique on the 67 with the body in place by just removing the shocks.

                          Just that my car will be down for longer and it's just getting to good driving weather

                          Don
                          Don,
                          I replaced my '65 bushings with Raybestos Pro's from Rock Auto. I believe mine were the originals, I've owned the car for 38 years. Here are a couple of shots comparing old verses new when installed on the lower control arm. The uppers were about the same.





                          Mike

                          Comment

                          • Donald H.
                            Extremely Frequent Poster
                            • November 2, 2009
                            • 2580

                            #14
                            Re: 1967 Ball Joints

                            Originally posted by Mike Eby (55078)
                            Don,
                            I replaced my '65 bushings with Raybestos Pro's from Rock Auto. I believe mine were the originals, I've owned the car for 38 years. Here are a couple of shots comparing old verses new when installed on the lower control arm. The uppers were about the same.


                            Mike
                            That looks great Mike. How did you compress your coil springs to get everything apart?

                            Thanks,

                            Don
                            Don Harris
                            Current: 67 convertible Marina Blue L79
                            Former: 60 Red/Red, 2x4, 245hp (Regional and National Top Flight 2013), 66 coupe Nassau Blue, L79 (Chapter and Regional Top Flight 2017)

                            Comment

                            • Ralph B.
                              Expired
                              • July 30, 2008
                              • 178

                              #15
                              Re: 1967 Ball Joints

                              [QUOTE How did you compress your coil springs to get everything apart?

                              Don,

                              There are several methods available to you; for me, I was ONLY comfortable with using a 5/8 X 2' long threaded rod (with grease) in place of the shock absorber with an appropriate size plate on the bottom side and large hardened washer on the top secured with 5/8 coupler nuts on both ends, additionally I kept the floor jack under the lower A arm at all times. In my case the spring was a F41 which are are considerably shorter than standard springs and I believe actually made the process easier.

                              What ever method you use just be careful.

                              Ralph

                              Comment

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