1967 Gauge cluster - Ammeter

[Donald O.]

Ammeter rear view. Original gauge has a third stud for holding into place, current repop (about 20 years old) is missing. Is the third stud required? The gauge does move even with both electrical connecting studs tight to cluster backing. See attached pix.



How can I test the old gauge for function and set the gauge to ZERO. It is biased to a slight positive, and is nicely dampened. I can nudge it to either side and it will return to the slightly positive, or charging, indication.

[Joe R.]

Re: 1967 Gauge cluster - Ammeter

Don O,

The amp gauge does not need a ground so the stud was left off to reduce cost.

Pull the pointer straight out holding it firmly. Then sero it and push it firmly in place.

If you have a problem just send it to me and I'll do a freebie for you.

JR

[Donald O.]

Re: 1967 Gauge cluster - Ammeter

Don O,

The amp gauge does not need a ground so the stud was left off to reduce cost.

Pull the pointer straight out holding it firmly. Then sero it and push it firmly in place.

If you have a problem just send it to me and I'll do a freebie for you.

JR

Thanks Joe. appreciate the offer.
How can I tell if the gauge is good? The original and the current resident of the cluster never moved very much, if at all, in either direction. I did check for voltage on both wires and both had 12.7 volts.
Is there supposed to be a foam ring around the speedo or tach gauges? Any Southern vendor of said foam rings?
DonO

[Harry S.]

Re: 1967 Gauge cluster - Ammeter

Thanks Joe. appreciate the offer.
How can I tell if the gauge is good? The original and the current resident of the cluster never moved very much, if at all, in either direction. I did check for voltage on both wires and both had 12.7 volts.
Is there supposed to be a foam ring around the speedo or tach gauges? Any Southern vendor of said foam rings?
DonO

Use a 1.5v battery. Hook up a set of alligator clips to the battery the best you can. Then just, for an instant, touch the gauge contacts. The gauge should respond if it's good. Then reverse polarity and touch again, the gauge should respond in the opposite direction.

If the gauge does not respond it's DOA.

I just took 3 clusters apart and never saw a foam ring? Not sure what you are refering to.

[Enzo C.]

Re: 1967 Gauge cluster - Ammeter

Hello Joe, I have a jumping amp gauge.... but it doesn't do it always mostly at idle??? any ideas or thoughts??Thanks

[Joe R.]

Re: 1967 Gauge cluster - Ammeter

Enzo,

The amp gauges have a dampening fluid and as the gauges get old the fluid is lost. The magnetic dampening is lost as the fluid is lost so the pointer jumps when the gauge is shaken by bumps in the road or a rough idle.
You need a new gauge.

JR

[Donald O.]

Re: 1967 Gauge cluster - Ammeter

Use a 1.5v battery. Hook up a set of alligator clips to the battery the best you can. Then just, for an instant, touch the gauge contacts. The gauge should respond if it's good. Then reverse polarity and touch again, the gauge should respond in the opposite direction.

If the gauge does not respond it's DOA.

I just took 3 clusters apart and never saw a foam ring? Not sure what you are refering to.

Here's a pix showing a ***** of the foam, I'm assuming its from a ring. DonO

[Harry S.]

Re: 1967 Gauge cluster - Ammeter

Don, it's not from a ring. There are 4 pieces of rubber on each of the large gauges and three maybe four on each of the small gauges. It is there to act as a cushion for the glass. A kit is available from most of the parts suppliers. If you only need the small pieces a black o-ring from the local hardware store can be used, just cut it into 7/8 sections.

Here is the kit from LIC ----> http://www.parts123.com/parts123/yb....5AAGHT~Z5Z5Z51

[Richard M.]

Re: 1967 Gauge cluster - Ammeter

Here's where they go....
Both big and small lenses.

P1150023.jpg P1160051.jpg P1160052.jpg P1160054.jpg

[Joe R.]

Re: 1967 Gauge cluster - Ammeter

Richard,

That's the correct kit for the lens and also included is the foam to go around the trip meter. The piece of foam that Don O is seeing came from the back of the trip meter. It's a small foam rubber piece that will crunch up after all these years. It was used to keep the light directed inside the instrument cluster. The foam strip can be cut from commercial foam but is not included in any kit that I know of presently.

JR

[Donald O.]

Re: 1967 Gauge cluster - Ammeter

Don, it's not from a ring. There are 4 pieces of rubber on each of the large gauges and three maybe four on each of the small gauges. It is there to act as a cushion for the glass. A kit is available from most of the parts suppliers. If you only need the small pieces a black o-ring from the local hardware store can be used, just cut it into 7/8 sections.

Here is the kit from LIC ----> http://www.parts123.com/parts123/yb....5AAGHT~Z5Z5Z51

what is the part number for the seal kit?
I suppose I could go Bubba and make something from some closed cell foam.

[Richard M.]

Re: 1967 Gauge cluster - Ammeter

Zip has it is stock if LIC doesn't....

D-639 <--click this to see

Rich
p.s. JR, thanks for that info, but I can't picture the foam you're speaking of. Do you have any pics of original foam and exactly where it's placed?

[Joe R.]

Re: 1967 Gauge cluster - Ammeter

Rich,

Posting up the back side of the trip odometer shield. The foam is attached by the strip on the upper back of the shield. Sorry I don't have the foam but it crumbles as soon as it is touched.

JRDSCN3973.jpg

[Richard M.]

Re: 1967 Gauge cluster - Ammeter

Thanks JR, I never knew that. All these years I've missed that little critter. I see traces of the glue or tape on the meter cover of this '67 cluster.

PB170042mod.jpg


Thanks for sharing that.

Rich

[Donald O.]

1967 Gauge cluster - Update

The cluster is all apart, have new foam kit for cluster lenses and trip odometer, as well as a hardware kit of screws and nuts for the inner cluster panel that holds the lenses in place. but be for I start re-assembly I have a few questions.

I would like to repaint the inner cavity of the cluster in a light green. What color exactly and where could I get some?

The nuts that hold the inner cluster lens retainer in place were a gold toned or dichromic looking and the kit from LIC are nickel or tin plated silver looking. I know no one could ever see them but which is correct?

There is a piece of tape, about 2" wide that goes from the bottom of the gauge cavity up to the rim of the cavity and then down the outside the same distance. The tape is where the ignition switch is. It is painted the same light green as the inner surface ans is a faded white outside the cavity. Any ideas as to function, originality, etc?

If needed, I can go back into the shop and take some photos, which always provide a better description.

DonO