Have any of you successfully used the K & B reproduction fuel gauges? I'm havin' a bad stretch of luck lately.
I decided to use reproduction "small" gauges for the 1960 I restored. A set of '59 gauges were in the cluster when I got it. I opted to get the repo meters and just doing it myself as a alternative to finding nice originals. All new repro gauges were fine.....for a while. The fuel gauge(s)......... a nightmare.
Repro 60 left, orig 59 right
P6210112.jpgP6210113.jpg
Repro
P6210116.jpg
Orig
P6210115.jpg
When I built the electrical system up I dry tested the fuel gauge and new repro correct 0 to 30 ohm fuel sender on the bench, perfect. Installed everything in the car and tested again, Perfect. All electrical was good. After engine time and power time with about 1/4 tank showing on the gauge, one day I noticed the gauge at below "E" with power on. I put more gas in thinking it was truly low......Not. Next time I powered up, gauge read past "F". Next time "E". back and forth evert time I pwered up. Checked all of my suspect areas, tested sender, wiring, etc fine. Put a original 1961 fuel gauge in the circuit, jumpered with cables in the cluster wiring, worked fine.
Pulled the gauge, tested on the bench, dead. Stuck past "F" when powered up. If you leave the sender wire off, and tap the needle to the right.....it goes to "F". BTW, these gauges now used digital electronics. Argh, I did that for 30 years as a career. I know what can happen with these if mishandled. I made sure I was safely grounded when working with them.
Got a new gauge last week, tested on the bench before going back in the housing and cluster........Dead, Stuck past "F" when powered up. DOA.
My test setup works perfectly on a original 1961 gauge unit I have here, simple....
+12v to rear right lug
-12v(gnd) to meter ground plane/case
0 to 30 ohm potentiometer in series between -12v(gnd) and rear left lug.
Saturday, Bill Harrison (harrisonspeedometer.com) and I were talking about the problem, and he said he hasn't used many repro fuel gauges, but invited me to his shop with my stuff to check it out. I brought the 2 gauges, my test setup and hopped in the C6 for a 90 min ride to Bill's. BTW he has a nice new shop and storefront space in the complex he's in. Very nice!
So Bill and I spent about a hour playin' around trying to get an idea what's wrong. Both dead. Stuck beyond "F" (pegged) on power up. He verified my '61 gauge. Perfect.
I suspect a floating ground may be a design issue and causing the digital circuits to fail. i.e. Static charges in the car when the battery is disconnected and the ground floats, causing havoc in the digital design. I had a few experiences like that in my career. I wish now I KISS'd and got original "analog" friendly gauges. (KISS-Keep It Simple Stupid)
Going to phone K & B today and speak to Ken about the problem.
Rich

I decided to use reproduction "small" gauges for the 1960 I restored. A set of '59 gauges were in the cluster when I got it. I opted to get the repo meters and just doing it myself as a alternative to finding nice originals. All new repro gauges were fine.....for a while. The fuel gauge(s)......... a nightmare.
Repro 60 left, orig 59 right
P6210112.jpgP6210113.jpg
Repro
P6210116.jpg
Orig
P6210115.jpg
When I built the electrical system up I dry tested the fuel gauge and new repro correct 0 to 30 ohm fuel sender on the bench, perfect. Installed everything in the car and tested again, Perfect. All electrical was good. After engine time and power time with about 1/4 tank showing on the gauge, one day I noticed the gauge at below "E" with power on. I put more gas in thinking it was truly low......Not. Next time I powered up, gauge read past "F". Next time "E". back and forth evert time I pwered up. Checked all of my suspect areas, tested sender, wiring, etc fine. Put a original 1961 fuel gauge in the circuit, jumpered with cables in the cluster wiring, worked fine.
Pulled the gauge, tested on the bench, dead. Stuck past "F" when powered up. If you leave the sender wire off, and tap the needle to the right.....it goes to "F". BTW, these gauges now used digital electronics. Argh, I did that for 30 years as a career. I know what can happen with these if mishandled. I made sure I was safely grounded when working with them.
Got a new gauge last week, tested on the bench before going back in the housing and cluster........Dead, Stuck past "F" when powered up. DOA.
My test setup works perfectly on a original 1961 gauge unit I have here, simple....
+12v to rear right lug
-12v(gnd) to meter ground plane/case
0 to 30 ohm potentiometer in series between -12v(gnd) and rear left lug.
Saturday, Bill Harrison (harrisonspeedometer.com) and I were talking about the problem, and he said he hasn't used many repro fuel gauges, but invited me to his shop with my stuff to check it out. I brought the 2 gauges, my test setup and hopped in the C6 for a 90 min ride to Bill's. BTW he has a nice new shop and storefront space in the complex he's in. Very nice!
So Bill and I spent about a hour playin' around trying to get an idea what's wrong. Both dead. Stuck beyond "F" (pegged) on power up. He verified my '61 gauge. Perfect.
I suspect a floating ground may be a design issue and causing the digital circuits to fail. i.e. Static charges in the car when the battery is disconnected and the ground floats, causing havoc in the digital design. I had a few experiences like that in my career. I wish now I KISS'd and got original "analog" friendly gauges. (KISS-Keep It Simple Stupid)

Going to phone K & B today and speak to Ken about the problem.
Rich
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