Ball Joints - NCRS Discussion Boards

Ball Joints

Collapse
X
 
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts
  • Tracy C.
    Expired
    • July 31, 2003
    • 2739

    #16
    Re: Ball Joints

    Originally posted by Kurt Geis (43861)
    Yes. They judged great. Just make sure they are riveted in place. One other good thing. Ball joints are considered a safety item and as such are no longer judged as they used to be, but installation still is critical. No bolts or screws.
    Kurt, I believe the CDCIF judging criteria still applies to ball joints. Like Patrick, I've not seen any policy change in print.

    Comment

    • Mike E.
      Very Frequent User
      • June 24, 2012
      • 920

      #17
      Re: Ball Joints

      If I'm not mistaken most replacement ball joint have larger mounting holes to accommodate bolts for installation. If riveting then you must use larger rivets than the originals which might be detectable. Where reproductions from AFC have the correct size mounting holes.

      Mike

      Comment

      • Terry M.
        Beyond Control Poster
        • September 30, 1980
        • 15569

        #18
        Re: Ball Joints

        The other typical deviation in ball studs (GM's terminology. It always reminds me of Bevis & Butthead) is the OEM studs have an unthreaded lead-in of about 3/4-inch. Replacements usually have no lead-in, or a much shorter one.

        BTW: I believe the original long lead-in was to accommodate the factory alignment fixtures, but I know John Hinckley would know for sure.
        Terry

        Comment

        • Joe L.
          Beyond Control Poster
          • January 31, 1988
          • 43191

          #19
          Re: Ball Joints

          Originally posted by Mike Eby (55078)
          If I'm not mistaken most replacement ball joint have larger mounting holes to accommodate bolts for installation. If riveting then you must use larger rivets than the originals which might be detectable. Where reproductions from AFC have the correct size mounting holes.

          Mike
          Mike-----

          Only the upper ball joints have larger rivet holes than the PRODUCTION versions. This includes both GM and aftermarket SERVICE joints. PRODUCTION upper ball joints had 9/32" holes for 1/4" rivets. SERVICE upper ball joints have 11/32" holes for use with 5/16" bolts. Lower ball joints, PRODUCTION and SERVICE, have 11/32" holes for 5/16" rivets or 5/16" bolts.

          I do not know what size holes the reproduction upper ball joints have although I suspect they are 11/32".

          Many upper a-arms have had their ball joint mounting holes enlarged from 9/32" to 11/32" when previous SERVICE ball joints were installed. I do not recommend trying to use 1/4" rivets with these even if ball joints with 9/32" mounting holes could be obtained (which I doubt).
          Last edited by Joe L.; September 7, 2013, 12:18 AM. Reason: correct rivet and hole sizes shown in bold type
          In Appreciation of John Hinckley

          Comment

          • Mike E.
            Very Frequent User
            • June 24, 2012
            • 920

            #20
            Re: Ball Joints

            Originally posted by Joe Lucia (12484)
            Mike-----

            Only the upper ball joints have larger rivet holes than the PRODUCTION versions. This includes both GM and aftermarket SERVICE joints. PRODUCTION upper ball joints had 11/32" holes for 5/16" rivets. SERVICE upper ball joints have 13/32" holes for use with 3/8" bolts. Lower ball joints, PRODUCTION and SERVICE, have 13/32" holes for 3/8" rivets or 3/8" bolts.

            I do not know what size holes the reproduction upper ball joints have although I suspect they are 13/32".

            Many upper a-arms have had their ball joint mounting holes enlarged from 11/32" to 13/32" when previous SERVICE ball joints were installed. I do not recommend trying to use 5/16" rivets with these even if ball joints with 11/32" mounting holes could be obtained (which I doubt).
            Joe,
            I'm not sure that's correct about production rivets sizes. The lower rivets supplied with reproduction lower ball joints were 5/16" rivets and the uppers use 1/4" rivets. When I drilled out the lower rivets and installed in the lower arm the 5/16" was a nice snug fit same was true with the uppers. A 3/8" rivet on the lower & 5/16" rivets on the upper would not have fit in the hole, they would have been to large.







            Mike

            Comment

            • Joe L.
              Beyond Control Poster
              • January 31, 1988
              • 43191

              #21
              Re: Ball Joints

              Originally posted by Mike Eby (55078)
              Joe,
              I'm not sure that's correct about production rivets sizes. The lower rivets supplied with reproduction lower ball joints were 5/16" rivets and the uppers use 1/4" rivets. When I drilled out the lower rivets and installed in the lower arm the 5/16" was a nice snug fit same was true with the uppers. A 3/8" rivet on the lower & 5/16" rivets on the upper would not have fit in the hole, they would have been to large.







              Mike

              Mike------


              Yes, you're correct. I erred on the rivet and hole sizes. The PRODUCTION upper ball joints were secured with 1/4" rivets and the hole size was 9/32". The SERVICE upper ball joints were secured with 5/16" bolts and the hole size was 11/32".

              The lower ball joints, PRODUCTION and SERVICE were secured with 5/16" rivets and 5/16" bolts. The hole size was 11/32" for both PRODUCTION and SERVICE. I'm also going to correct my above post.
              In Appreciation of John Hinckley

              Comment

              • John H.
                Beyond Control Poster
                • November 30, 1997
                • 16513

                #22
                Re: Ball Joints

                Originally posted by Terry McManmon (3966)
                The other typical deviation in ball studs (GM's terminology. It always reminds me of Bevis & Butthead) is the OEM studs have an unthreaded lead-in of about 3/4-inch. Replacements usually have no lead-in, or a much shorter one.

                BTW: I believe the original long lead-in was to accommodate the factory alignment fixtures, but I know John Hinckley would know for sure.
                Terry -

                That's correct - the unthreaded shank extension on both the upper and lower ball joints was used by the front suspension caster/camber set fixtures on the Frame Upside-down Line.

                Comment

                Working...
                Searching...Please wait.
                An unexpected error was returned: 'Your submission could not be processed because you have logged in since the previous page was loaded.

                Please push the back button and reload the previous window.'
                An unexpected error was returned: 'Your submission could not be processed because the token has expired.

                Please push the back button and reload the previous window.'
                An internal error has occurred and the module cannot be displayed.
                There are no results that meet this criteria.
                Search Result for "|||"