Starting problem

[Ron R.]

Re: Starting problem

Will take your advice and buy anothe starter with solenoid, keep my starter and re build for a spare............

Ron,

[Monte M.]

Re: Starting problem

Ron,
If when you hit the key, you hear a loud click, Paul is right. If you hear virtually nothing, Paul is sending you in the wrong direction.

[Monte M.]

Re: Starting problem

Also, at one time there was a question about hitting it with a hammer. This freed it up. What happened after it was free. If it did work right, all that tells you is the return spring on the solenoid is not strong enough to pull it back. Which a shim will take care of.

What did happen after the hammer returned the solenoid to the right place?

[Monte M.]

Re: Starting problem

I went back and read to see that it worked fine after hitting it.
Ron, do whatever you need to feel good about it. You will eventually see who was right.

Congrets on such a cool 63. My little fuelie is jealous. If there is anything I can do to help you with the 63, let me know.

Best of luck with the other stuff.
Monte

[Monte M.]

Re: Starting problem

Ron,
On another note: you mentioned putting the car back together. My fuel injected Split Window is almost done.
I have a number of early 327 blocks, an extra fuel injection unit, and a lot of other stuff for the car.
Even if what I have is not correct for your car, I may be able to point you in a direction.

Most of my stuff is for October and Early November 1962 built cars.
I even have some prototype fuel injection stuff that was for very early cars.

I would be happy to help in any way I can.
I have a September 12, 1962 original 340 HP block.
I have a September 23, 1962 original 300 HP block.

Original horse power does not matter. The high horse power blocks were the same as the others. The only difference was they took the best dimentioned center line blocks for the higher horse power blocks. Some guys will tell you there is no difference, so take everything with a grain of salt.

As you are finding, you get people with limited knowledge trying to help and can end up sending you on a wild goose chase at times.

The point is they are trying to help and that is the important thing, but sometimes good intentions can cast you a lot of money. Especially in the 63 world where a November car has a ton of different parts on it than a June car does. There were hundreds of running changes in the 63 build. Everything from ignition shielding, turn signals, dash, radio, gas door, mirror, and on the F.I. cars it was even worse. The air cleaner, fuel pump, oil filler, tubes on the front of the plenum, and the plenum itself. Hell the production plenum lid we see on most units is actually the fourth or fifth design out there.

There is a ton to know about the 63. Let me know if I can help. The changes I mentioned are just a few there are many more.

Best of luck,

Monte

[Ron R.]

Re: Starting problem

Monte
Sure sounds like you have a wealth of knowledge about the early cars which I have, I would love to someday restore this car, which may have some potential. As you may know from my threads, this car is a radio delete, had scoops, racing seat belt, was repainted before I purchased in 68.
MayBe we can talk more if your to be at Bloomington in June. Will definitely stay in touch.
I'm currently trying to re set the timing, which is way off.
Ron

[Gene M.]

Re: Starting problem

Ron, first clean the battery terminals as Joe suggested then either put a charge on the battery or jump it with a good battery.

If you have power to your interior lights then it's not the bulkhead connection..........

Paul

I've found this to not always to be the case. I had a 64 in my garage that only the red wire on the 1st bulk connector to have bad contact pins. Cleaned them all up and problem was solved. It had contact thru everything else except the heavy red wire. Another issue at the balk head is high resistance if the pins are not in good clean order.

Joe suggested Pack with dielectric silicone compound after you're finished. Good advice, good coverage with dielectric silicone is all ya really need to keep the green crud from growing back.

[Paul J.]

Re: Starting problem

I went back and read to see that it worked fine after hitting it.
Ron, do whatever you need to feel good about it. You will eventually see who was right....

Best of luck with the other stuff.
Monte

Monte, I'm glad that you did this, I was wondering if you were paying attention. I've been working on starters and brakes for 43 years, both as a shadetree and a professional. I'm right on this one. I disagree with your earlier comment about the most common starter failure being brushes. Sure, that is sometimes a cause of failure in these Chevy small block starters, but a weak/failed solenoid is far more common.

Ron, I prefer to check the most obvious and common problem first, and then if I don't find the problem I will get into lesser causes like wiring, etc. Sometimes a duck is just a duck.

Paul

[Monte M.]

Re: Starting problem

Paul,
I agree that the solenoid is far more common than the starter to go out. I was talking about starters.

The solenoid is kicking it in just fine. Hell, it got stuck. The starter is not turning it over for some reason.

We can agree to disagree.

Monte

[Paul J.]

Re: Starting problem

Paul,
I agree that the solenoid is far more common than the starter to go out. I was talking about starters.

The solenoid is kicking it in just fine. Hell, it got stuck. The starter is not turning it over for some reason.

We can agree to disagree.

Monte

Agree to disagree.

Maybe I did a poor job of explaining it earlier. What I have found is that the drive gear can't get in between the teeth of the flywheel. It gets to it but jams into the flywheel because there is not enough power to push it all the way in. If the starter brushes were bad the drive gear would get all of the way into flywheel teeth, but the starter would'nt have enough power to turn it. In this case, when you let go of the key the drive gear should still retract and not become stuck. In both cases you would hear a noise, but the noises would be different. Unfortunately, Ron never told us about the noise.

The drive gear jamming could also be a shimming issue, but if it worked fine before for any length of time and did'nt make an awful noise on start ups, then it's most likely the solenoid.

Paul