Starting problem

[Ron R.]

Just tried to start after a couple of weeks sitting idle, used starting fluid to help start, ran for less than a minute and died. Tried to start again, but this time wouldn't even turn over, no response at all from turning the key in the igintion. Lights and headlight work Ok, so I have power to the accessories. Never had this problem before, except when the positve battery cable was not tight enough.
Any suggestions are welcomed.

Ron

[Joe C.]

Re: Starting problem

Just tried to start after a couple of weeks sitting idle, used starting fluid to help start, ran for less than a minute and died. Tried to start again, but this time wouldn't even turn over, no response at all from turning the key in the igintion. Lights and headlight work Ok, so I have power to the accessories. Never had this problem before, except when the positve battery cable was not tight enough.
Any suggestions are welcomed.

Ron

If battery terminals and starter terminals are clean, then it's probably the 12v "start" wire from the ign switch to the solenoid. This is a low amperage conductor which energizes the solenoid, which pulls in the Bendix spring and makes contact for the starter motor. Pull the bulkhead connector behind the fuse panel and clean all the contacts. Pack with dielectric silicone compound after you're finished.

[Ron R.]

Re: Starting problem

I should know, but where is the bulkhead connector behind the fuse panel, this is a 1963 vette............

[Joe C.]

Re: Starting problem

I should know, but where is the bulkhead connector behind the fuse panel, this is a 1963 vette............

On the firewall (engine) side of the fuse box. For 1965 there are 2 separate snap lock connectors. 1963 might be the same.

[Monte M.]

Re: Starting problem

Edit:
Sorry, After re-reading you covered that. I think he is pointing you in the right direction.


would double check the terminal connection on the solenoid and the terminals long before pulling the panel apart.
Just a suggestion.

[Greg S.]

Re: Starting problem

If you have the round green dial battery cut-off on the battery you might try removing it from the circuit. Even though the lights work it may not be allowing full current to pass. The dial cutoffs are notorius for failing even though they look fine.

[Ron R.]

Re: Starting problem

I think I may pull the starter and check the solenoid, I also thought about maybe trying to jump start it for more juice.

[Ron R.]

Re: Starting problem

Ha Monte, do you know of a way to check solenoid while still on the car? Also, approx.cost of starter and solenoid?

[Timothy B.]

Re: Starting problem

Ron,

Get a test light and check for current at the R terminal while someone holds the key in the start position. Also, check the solenoid terminal that goes into the starter to see if it's hot. Make sure the car is in neutral and wheels chocked..

[Paul J.]

Re: Starting problem

I think I may pull the starter and check the solenoid, I also thought about maybe trying to jump start it for more juice.

Ron, first clean the battery terminals as Joe suggested then either put a charge on the battery or jump it with a good battery.

If you have power to your interior lights then it's not the bulkhead connection.

If there is no sound when you turn the key and the lights dim, then your starter drive is stuck in the flywheel. You need a starter rebuild or a new solenoid at the least. To check this, rap firmley on the starter with it on the car and then try to start it. Sometimes you can nudge the car a little with it gear and the drive will pop back. When you start it, if you hear a "boing" type noise and the car does'nt start, then the gear just got stuck in the flywheel again. Bench testing your starter will not reveal this problem. Rebuild kits ar cheap and easy.

Paul

[Monte M.]

Re: Starting problem

Ron,
There are many ways to check the solenoid while it is still in the car. I have a button with two alligator clips at the end of two wires.
The idea is to put one on the big terminal and the other on the small lead where your small wire was. The "R" terminal if I am not mistaken.

When you touch the battery terminal to the "R", you should hear the solenoid kick in.

Before doing that, get a multi-meter. Put it to 200 and then put the positive on the big battery terminal and ground the other end. Make sure you have a minimum of 12 volts to the starter itself.

I hope I explained it right.
Keep me informed.

Monte

[Monte M.]

Re: Starting problem

Ron,

To answer the second part of your question.
Solenoids are $15.00 to $30.00 depending on a few things.
Starters, If your starter worked good before, just rebuild this one. A very simple job. It is about 90% of the time that all a starter needs is brushes. A ten minute job if the starter is on the bench.
From there you can get that mulit-meter out again, if you have one, and we can check the resistance in the winding to make sure it is still good like most are.

If you do buy a starter, buy a good one. No Grand specials. Cheap starters are made in China and they use inferior metals. As these metals heat up, they expand. This expansion makes it much more difficult for the 12 volts to turn it over.

I learned this the hard way as a 16 year old kid. I bought a Grand Auto starter for my GTO. Every time the car got really warm, I had to wait at least a half hour for it to cool so I could start it again.

Damn, That car was a lot of fun back in High School.

Hope the info helps a bit.

Monte

[Ron R.]

Re: Starting problem

Paul, I cleaned the positive cable thinking that was the problem, which it has been in the past, but you hit the nail on he head, there is no sound at all from the starter or solenoid and the interior lights dimmed slightly when turning the ignition key to start. I also, pushed the car forward about 3 feet thinking it may free up the starter from the flywheel, but still wouldn't start. I checked Autozone for a price, I can buy a Duralast starter with solenoid for only $75.00 with limited warranty, my starter is probably 10 plus years old, very few miles on car.

Thanks,

[Paul J.]

Re: Starting problem

Paul, I cleaned the positive cable thinking that was the problem, which it has been in the past, but you hit the nail on he head, there is no sound at all from the starter or solenoid and the interior lights dimmed slightly when turning the ignition key to start. I also, pushed the car forward about 3 feet thinking it may free up the starter from the flywheel, but still wouldn't start. I checked Autozone for a price, I can buy a Duralast starter with solenoid for only $75.00 with limited warranty, my starter is probably 10 plus years old, very few miles on car.

Thanks,

Be sure not to trade in your core if it's an original starter. If it has the correct numbers on it it still has value.

As for Autozone, they are not that great, but I use their parts a lot because they are close and cheap. One of my trucks has a Duralast starter on it. Be careful as they offer/stock several different starters that will fit and some of these have different configurations. I usually go online and look up the correct part number before I go there.

Paul

[Ron R.]

Re: Starting problem

Thanks Paul for the information, but yes I was going to keep the old starter and eventually rebuild it, the rebuild kits are inexpensive at Chicago Corvette. Auto Zone only charges $10.00 extra for the core.