Non-H2O coolant

[Doug L.]

Has anyone used non-water based coolant in a Corvette or other engine? If so what was your experience. Would you recommend using it in a Corvette engine? If so why? If not why not?

Just wondering given the propensity of my 327 to run hot and / or overheat, even though the block was boiled, the radiator is new and the thermostat functions at the correct 180 deg.

[Dick W.]

Re: Non-H2O coolant

Has anyone used non-water based coolant in a Corvette or other engine? If so what was your experience. Would you recommend using it in a Corvette engine? If so why? If not why not?

Just wondering given the propensity of my 327 to run hot and / or overheat, even though the block was boiled, the radiator is new and the thermostat functions at the correct 180 deg.

There are snake oil salesmen selling everything. There is nothing wrong with a 50-50 mixture of distilled water and a good antifreeze such as Zerex. Another thing I have to ask when one talks about their vehicle running hot. Is it pushing water out? If not, there is a good chance it is not too hot. Temperature guages on these cars are notoriously inaccurate

[John F.]

Re: Non-H2O coolant

Get it up to temp and shoot with an IR gun. They are cheap.

[Doug L.]

Re: Non-H2O coolant

Hi Dick,
That is the mix I am running, 50-50 distilled water and Zerex. Yes the system pushes water out the surge tank overflow. The tank is a new repro. All hoses are new as is the radiator. All gauges were rebuilt. I am running a 180 thermostat. The fan clutch was restored. While crusing on the freeway it registers right at 180. Get stopped at a traffic light for more than 1-2 minutes, which is not uncommon here in South Florida, and the temp goes up quickly. I have checked the thermostat housing with a temperature gun. I checked the thermostat in a pot of boiling water with a thermometer. The radiator cap is 13 PSI. I may change to a 15 Lb cap except for judging. The timing is set correctly.

Doug

[Doug L.]

Re: Non-H2O coolant

Done that. It is hot and boiling over.

[Joe L.]

Re: Non-H2O coolant

Has anyone used non-water based coolant in a Corvette or other engine? If so what was your experience. Would you recommend using it in a Corvette engine? If so why? If not why not?

Just wondering given the propensity of my 327 to run hot and / or overheat, even though the block was boiled, the radiator is new and the thermostat functions at the correct 180 deg.

Doug-----


You'd be hard-pressed to find any liquid that is a better heat transfer or cooling agent than water. In fact, 100% water is best but presents other problems in modern cooling systems so a mix with ethylene glycol is generally used. For best combination of cooling, boil-over protection, and corrosion protection a 50-50 mixture is best. Up to 70% ethylene glycol can be used but cooling performance will suffer.

[Timothy B.]

Re: Non-H2O coolant

Doug,

What year corvette do you have, sorry if I did not catch that in reading.

When the cooling systems are filled after being emptied, I fill the block and radiator slowly through the expansion tank like normal but when the level comes up in the tank, fill it to approx. two inches below the top. Run the engine with the radiator cap installed and tight, only remove the cap when the engine is completely cooled to check the level in the tank.

It's easy to trap air because the only way for air to escape is through the expansion tank when filling so fill slow. Some people fill the systems through the thermostat and when the level rises install the thermostat and goose neck. You can also drill a .060 hole in the thermostat flange and this will vent air to the radiator and back out the expansion tank during filling.

I suspect the radiator cap may be the problem so get it checked and try a new 15 psi cap to see if the problem stops. If you replace the cap try to find a later service AC RC-26 cap to use, get one with AC stamped in the cap as these are still made by AC.

How much overbore does the engine have and how much runnng time on the fresh motor. New motors will run hot because there is much more friction during breakin. Also, is that VACUUM ADVANCE working properly..

[Paul D.]

Re: Non-H2O coolant

Doug, If I understand correctly, your car only presents a problem while idling in traffic. If so, I would give closer scrutiny to shroud sealing, fan, belt tension, and even though you had it restored, the fan clutch. Chip.

[Joe L.]

Re: Non-H2O coolant

Doug, If I understand correctly, your car only presents a problem while idling in traffic. If so, I would give closer scrutiny to shroud sealing, fan, belt tension, and even though you had it restored, the fan clutch. Chip.

Chip and Doug------


As I've mentioned many times before, I do not recommend the use of restored fan clutches for driving; save them for judging only.

[David L.]

Re: Non-H2O coolant

Has anyone used non-water based coolant in a Corvette or other engine? If so what was your experience. Would you recommend using it in a Corvette engine? If so why? If not why not?

Just wondering given the propensity of my 327 to run hot and / or overheat, even though the block was boiled, the radiator is new and the thermostat functions at the correct 180 deg.

Doug,

Did you first see the waterless coolant used on the English TV show called "Wheeler Dealers" on the Velocity channel? I saw the show and also had questions about the waterless coolant myself. If I remember correctly the "wheeler Dealers" used the waterless coolant mainly to prevent corrosion. I did some research on the web but I still have doubts.

Dave

http://www.jaylenosgarage.com/extras/car-care/waterless-engine-coolant/index.shtml

[Patrick H.]

Re: Non-H2O coolant

I've got the same problem with a 72 small block. New DeWitt aluminum repro radiator, new fan clutch, 3 different radiator caps, rebuilt water pump, replaced intake, 2 cracked left hand exhaust manifolds + melted windshield washer canisters and it still happens.
Timing is dead nuts on, everything else is tuned and functioning perfectly. The coolant level remains steady - until it boils over with any slow traffic or stopping.

My next step is a compression test to see if there is a cracked cylinder or head. It's got me stumped too.

[Donald O.]

Re: Non-H2O coolant

The waterless coolant is called by its trade name "Evans Coolant". It is NOT compatible with water or any other anti-freeze. It also costs about $40 a gallon. Our engine labe ran a 1.5 year investigation of its use in OTR diesel trucks, specifically in the EGR cooler to reduce the temp of the intake manifold charge. The design required its own coolant system. The intent was to be able to increase the amount of EGR gas in the charge; more EGR = less NOx, but more EGR = more smoke; less NOx = smaller catalyst but more smoke = largere and more frequent regeneration of the DPF (diesel particulate filter).

In the end, they abandoned the idea as cost prohibitive.

Evans coolant also smells bad compared to good old Prestone green coolant.

[Ronald L.]

Re: Non-H2O coolant

Must be doing something different than stock, new there was no problem, especially with the 350's. If timing physical parts are all OK, is it alcohol gas?

[Jim T.]

Re: Non-H2O coolant

Full time vacuum from a carb's full time vacuum port going directly to a correct operating vacuum advance unit should contribute to a engine not overheating in stop and go heavy traffic.

[John H.]

Re: Non-H2O coolant

Full time vacuum from a carb's full time vacuum port going directly to a correct operating vacuum advance unit should contribute to a engine not overheating in stop and go heavy traffic.

Correct! Everything after 1967 used "ported" vacuum to the distributor (except TCS ported-to-manifold vacuum override when cold or overheating), to reduce NOX and increase exhaust gas temperature (by retarding idle spark advance) to help the A.I.R. system to produce an effective "afterburn" in the exhaust manifolds. In most cases, idle/low-speed traffic cooling can be significantly improved by connecting the distributor vacuum advance line to a full manifold vacuum source, which will add about 15* of advance at idle. The same also applies to '66 L-72 and '67 L-68 and L-71, which had "ported" vacuum.