Reading the various threads about ride height problems caused me to worry about the aftermarket springs I had installed in my 67 427/435 chassis. They were advertised as easy to install but not as stiff as F41 springs. With some effort I managed to get them in my chassis with ordinary Home Depot 1/2-13 threaded rod, but the rod bent in the process and the friction to turn the nut was high and worrysome regarding galling.
I wanted to put my stock springs back in, but I did not think the same process would work with springs so much taller (see pic 1) than the aftermarket springs that just getting them situated in the spring pockets would require some compression.
The solution was simple. I used some 7/16-20 threaded rod in the front and 9/16-18 threaded rod in the rear to replace the lower A-arm shaft bolts to allow the A-arm shaft to hang down 4"-5" below its usual position. This gave enough room that the long springs could be carefully positioned correctly in the upper and lower spring pockets. I got the threaded rods from an Amazon seller and they were of a hardened material called A-7 steel that had to be cut with a grinder cut off saw. Pics 2 and 3 show the dropped A-arm shaft and Pic 4 shows the beginning of tightening the long piece of 9/16 treaded rod inserted in the upper shock absorber hole and secured to a steel plate below the shock hole in the lower A-arm. I used a ball bearing from an engine harmonic ballancer installation tool under the upper nut on the treaded rod to make the nut easy to turn.
The installation was so easy and safe that it was actually fun. The spring compression was accomplished with the rod thru the spring, and the A-arm shaft was raised into place in several steps until the the shaft was tight againt the frame and the upper ball joint nut was in place. But there was not much bolt force required to raise the A-arm shaft with the spring compression rod in place. The piece of rod in the outer hole of the nut plate for the front of the A-arm shaft is only there to locate the A-arm shaft as it is tightened into place by the piece of 7/16-20 rod in the inboard hole. It is the first rod to be removed and replaced with the regular bolt. Next remove front inboard piece of rod and replace the bolt. Next remove the piece of rod at the rear of the A-arm shaft (the compression rod is still in place) and replace the bolt and lock nut. Finally remove the compression rod.
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I wanted to put my stock springs back in, but I did not think the same process would work with springs so much taller (see pic 1) than the aftermarket springs that just getting them situated in the spring pockets would require some compression.
The solution was simple. I used some 7/16-20 threaded rod in the front and 9/16-18 threaded rod in the rear to replace the lower A-arm shaft bolts to allow the A-arm shaft to hang down 4"-5" below its usual position. This gave enough room that the long springs could be carefully positioned correctly in the upper and lower spring pockets. I got the threaded rods from an Amazon seller and they were of a hardened material called A-7 steel that had to be cut with a grinder cut off saw. Pics 2 and 3 show the dropped A-arm shaft and Pic 4 shows the beginning of tightening the long piece of 9/16 treaded rod inserted in the upper shock absorber hole and secured to a steel plate below the shock hole in the lower A-arm. I used a ball bearing from an engine harmonic ballancer installation tool under the upper nut on the treaded rod to make the nut easy to turn.
The installation was so easy and safe that it was actually fun. The spring compression was accomplished with the rod thru the spring, and the A-arm shaft was raised into place in several steps until the the shaft was tight againt the frame and the upper ball joint nut was in place. But there was not much bolt force required to raise the A-arm shaft with the spring compression rod in place. The piece of rod in the outer hole of the nut plate for the front of the A-arm shaft is only there to locate the A-arm shaft as it is tightened into place by the piece of 7/16-20 rod in the inboard hole. It is the first rod to be removed and replaced with the regular bolt. Next remove front inboard piece of rod and replace the bolt. Next remove the piece of rod at the rear of the A-arm shaft (the compression rod is still in place) and replace the bolt and lock nut. Finally remove the compression rod.
IMG_0805.jpgIMG_0808.jpgIMG_0807.jpg IMG_0820.jpg
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