Gap behind the steering wheel

[David H.]

Re: Gap behind the steering wheel

Thanks so much for all the great feedback and help with this. I have the split washer in place. The shaft is indeed scored. Don't know how it got that way. I will use emery cloth to clean it up. As I understand it the hub on the steering wheel is suppose to fit down over this scored area to a tapered fit? I don't believe it is doing that at this point. I do have the flat washer and nut to tighten the wheel down. It threads on fine. Does anyone have a measurement from the end of the threaded shaft to the upper bearing?

[Edward H.]

Re: Gap behind the steering wheel

I have the steering wheel off at the moment (62)DSCF0014.jpgFrom the brass bearing (collar) to the end of the shaft is exactly 2 in.

SEPERATE QUESTION - MY PROBLEM: With the wheel off are you able to get the turn signal to hold in the left and right detents? Mine does not?

[Patrick S.]

Re: Gap behind the steering wheel

I'll say it again, DON'T FORGET THE SPRING! It holds the bearing tight and in place. The steering wheel is actually spring loaded and in a perfect world would "pop" off when the nut and washer are removed.

[David H.]

Re: Gap behind the steering wheel

Mr. Hoffmann, would you mind taking another picture of your signal assembly from straight on to the shaft? My assembly is working ok. It locks in place when set to a left or right turn. Don't know yet if it cancels. Thanks you for the measurement. I will check mine again. Mine measures around 2 3/32" now from the tip of the threads to the brass ring around the bearing. I have the split washer in place inside the end of the bearing and the spring. The worn area on the shaft is from the spring. Does the middle of the hub attached to the back of the wheel go down over this area? Compare the picture I attached earlier to what yours looks like. Maybe something is different.

[Erich C.]

Re: Gap behind the steering wheel

Richard Mozzetta (13499) Re: Gap behind the steering wheel

I'm wondering if your steering shaft has been pulled out of the worm gear. I don't have a measurement but this photo may help.

I have to agree with the above statement. The worm gear is supported by a tapered bearing on each end and couldn't move that far. If it did you would definitely
feel binding when the wheel was turned. Out of curiosity and for my own reference I measured the shaft on my '62. It is 2" ( see photos )
Erich

100_6167.jpg100_6163.jpg

[David H.]

Re: Gap behind the steering wheel

Well, it's back together and this is what I ended up with.

[Mike E.]

Re: Gap behind the steering wheel

So, what did you find abs the problem?

[Richard M.]

Re: Gap behind the steering wheel

I have to agree with the above statement. The worm gear is supported by a tapered bearing on each end and couldn't move that far. If it did you would definitely
feel binding when the wheel was turned. Out of curiosity and for my own reference I measured the shaft on my '62. It is 2" ( see photos )
Erich

[ATTACH=CONFIG]43554[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]43555[/ATTACH]

Erich,

Yes the worm cannot move fore and aft as it's held by the bearings on each end. But the steering shaft is splined and is pressed into the inside ID of the worm gear which has mating splines. Many years ago I worked on a steering box and using a puller, I removed the worm gear from the shaft, then replaced it with a different one by pressing it back on the shaft.

My thought about David's problem may have been that his shaft may have pulled out of the worm gear slightly, causing his problem.

Rich

[Richard M.]

Re: Gap behind the steering wheel

Well, it's back together and this is what I ended up with.

Looks perfect! Was it the damaged taper on the shaft holding it back?

[David H.]

Re: Gap behind the steering wheel

I will try to explain what I found after studying this issue for quite some time. I have discovered that the only "adjustment" for this issue is with the lower housing that has the signal mechanism in it. The steering box is bolted to the frame with not adjustment. The shaft is bolted at the firewall with no adjustment. The upper column is bolted via the u shaped bracket to under the instruments with little or no adjustment. After it comes out from under the instruments you have the lower housing, the upper housing and the steering wheel. I was under the impression that the lower housing should be as close to the instruments as 1/4". Not so. I found that I needed to install the steering wheel which places the upper housing. Then bring the lower housing up to the upper housing leaving a slight gap where they meet. That places the lower housing where ever it lands. Then tighten the bolt that is behind the lower housing and clamps it to the shafts outer housing. Basically saying it is where it is. Mine just happens to be 5/8" from the bottom of the lower housing to the edge of the instrument housing. As long as they are both the same color and the steering column under them is the same color, it looks ok. Just a bigger gap than I would like to see. How do you make the gap smaller? Loosen the body mounts and move the body back till I get the gap I want. Not a bad idea actually. That might be the only way to change it. for now it will stay the way it is.

[Richard M.]

Re: Gap behind the steering wheel

David,

The way you reinstalled everything is exactly correct. You have no major adjustment of the column at all, fore and aft. It lands where it lands and nothing can be done, or needs to be done. The cluster gets mounted to the dash and lands where it lands. However too much foam on the dashpad behind the cluster will affect the distances of the lower column hub to the cluster. It is what it is.

The only thing that's important is to mount the column at the dash area when the steering box is slightly loose at the frame, then add shims to the steering box "as required", to keep the column from bending.

Your only adjustment is as you did, set the steering wheel and tighten it, then bring the lower housing to within a 1/8" or so and tighten the wedge screw. Many have found dipping the wedge in "Plasti-dip" will keep it from loosening up.

edit.......You column to lower hub gap looks totally normal. Don't change anything to make it different, especially moving the body. You'll affect other things.

Rich

[David H.]

Re: Gap behind the steering wheel

Thanks Rich for all your input on this issue. It was very helpful. I found an article about the plastic dip and used it before I put it back together. When I took mine apart there was a wad of aluminum foil stuffed in it to make it hold. At the time I couldn't imagine what that was doing in there. Now I know. I spent this afternoon putting the horn ring in and checking my horn and direction signals. There is some issue with the horn as when I turn the wheel it blows but I will work on that tomorrow.

[Erich C.]

Re: Gap behind the steering wheel

Erich,

Yes the worm cannot move fore and aft as it's held by the bearings on each end. But the steering shaft is splined and is pressed into the inside ID of the worm gear which has mating splines. Many years ago I worked on a steering box and using a puller, I removed the worm gear from the shaft, then replaced it with a different one by pressing it back on the shaft.

My thought about David's problem may have been that his shaft may have pulled out of the worm gear slightly, causing his problem.

Rich

Rich,
I know that and as I said was agreeing with your statement. My point was that since the worm is supported by the bearings the shaft possibly had slightly pulled out of the worm gear

Erich

[Richard M.]

Re: Gap behind the steering wheel

Rich,
I know that and as I said was agreeing with your statement. My point was that since the worm is supported by the bearings the shaft possibly had slightly pulled out of the worm gear

Erich

Ooops.......After reading your post again, I see that now. Thanks.