Gap behind the steering wheel

[David H.]

Anyone know what is causing this gap behind my steering wheel?
Everything else is in place and lines up properly.
pitman arm, steering box to the frame, gasket at the firewall,
bracket under dash. What could cause this gap?

[Harry S.]

Re: Gap behind the steering wheel

If it's like the C2, the jack shaft is the metal covering that goes over the shaft that attach's to the steering coupler. The jack shaft and the collar that holds the directional lever are adjustable. There is a screw that holds the collar and jack shaft in position. Did that screw come loose and the collar move.

Also, does your horn work?

[David H.]

Re: Gap behind the steering wheel

The jack shaft has not moved and the collar tightens against the shaft. I don't see anything out of place there. Does the inner shaft move up or down inside the outer shaft?

[Harry S.]

Re: Gap behind the steering wheel

The jack shaft has not moved and the collar tightens against the shaft. I don't see anything out of place there. Does the inner shaft move up or down inside the outer shaft?

Again, I only have C2 experience here. The answer is yes.

Check the engine side to see if a clamp came loose.

I think it's time for a C1 guy to chime in.

[Donald H.]

Re: Gap behind the steering wheel

David,

I just finished installing the steering in my 1960. I did not have the problem you are having, in fact when I first installed my steering wheel/bell assembly it rubbed against the turn signal housing. After some adjusting of the turn signal housing the picture attached is what I have now.

I think it would help to take your steering wheel back off and take post a picture straight on of the turn signal housing and the underside of the steering wheel with one with the bell and hub in place.

Don

[Richard M.]

Re: Gap behind the steering wheel

Don is correct, you have to loosen the clamp screw on the housing and move it rearward, but after the wheel is tightened down so you get about 1/16' or more gap to the wheel hub.

Also, it appears your column under the housing is black. It should be red to match the cluster, so when the housing is installed you see some of the column, just like Don's result.

Rich
edit.....
p.s. Harry, no clamp on the C1's. The column position isn't adjustable fore & aft.

[David H.]

Re: Gap behind the steering wheel

OK, so I loosen the screw that clamps the signal housing to the column and move the housing up to the hub on the steering wheel. that puts the gap between the signal hub and the dash assembly. Still, that seems like a rather large gap to leave. And yes the black in my picture should be red. That I can fix.

[Richard M.]

Re: Gap behind the steering wheel

David,

Yes move the housing, but it does appear that you'll have a pretty big gap to the cluster.

I'm wondering if your steering shaft has been pulled out of the worm gear. I don't have a measurement but this photo may help.

P5090006.jpg

[David H.]

Re: Gap behind the steering wheel

The gap is 5/8" as it is. The shaft is sticking out 2 9/32" from the shaft bearing. About what yours looks like. I am looking for a picture of when I took it apart. I don't believe the wheels would steer if the shaft was pulled out of the worm gear. It steers perfectly smooth and tight. Here is picture of it before it came out.

[Richard M.]

Re: Gap behind the steering wheel

David, that pic I had is now a completed car and gone.

Your picture looks normal I'd say. However, the shaft can come out of the worm a little and still be connected. The worm is about 4" long and the shaft is spline'd and press fit into the worm. Did you tighten the steering nut down when you were test fitting it? It really needs to be tight to get it right.

We need someone to get a measurement of theirs to compare to yours, but it looks good to me.

Rich

[Patrick S.]

Re: Gap behind the steering wheel

Don't forget the spring that is shown in Richard's picture.

[Richard M.]

Re: Gap behind the steering wheel

David,

Looking closer at your 2nd photo in post#9...........

The hub and shaft is a tapered connection below the spline. Your shaft taper looks quite scored. It's possible that the wheel hub taper is not sitting onto the shaft taper properly, which would keep the hub further rearward on the shaft. I'm not sure how the shaft could get scored like that.

You may need to dress the taper on the shaft, and possibly the hub to get it to seat correctly. Just be careful you don't shave too much. Do a little at a time & test fit. I'd use strips of emery cloth.

It also looks like the threads on the shaft are damaged. Be careful when tightening the nut, and there should be a washer under the nut also.

I found this photo on ebay. See how smooth the taper is.....

026_1348014479.jpg

[Donald H.]

Re: Gap behind the steering wheel

Here's another picture similar to the one Rich posted. One other thing to check is whether your hub is actually going all the way on the shaft, i.e. the comment Rich made about the apparent scoring on the steering shaft where the hub should slip down and over it. I replaced my steering shaft/worm gear assembly when I rebuilt my steering box, but the hub/bell/wheel assembly slipped down onto it very easily.


Also notice the split 'washer' in the picture. Make sure you keep and reuse it. It centers the steering shaft within the upper bearing.

[Mike E.]

Re: Gap behind the steering wheel

Here's another picture similar to the one Rich posted. One other thing to check is whether your hub is actually going all the way on the shaft, i.e. the comment Rich made about the apparent scoring on the steering shaft where the hub should slip down and over it. I replaced my steering shaft/worm gear assembly when I rebuilt my steering box, but the hub/bell/wheel assembly slipped down onto it very easily.


Also notice the split 'washer' in the picture. Make sure you keep and reuse it. It centers the steering shaft within the upper bearing.

I could be mistaken, but I believe the "split" is actually the inner race for the old upper bearing. I think that using it is redundant--you already have the inner race on the new bearing (with wire that goes down the column and exits in the column notch.)

[Donald H.]

Re: Gap behind the steering wheel

I could be mistaken, but I believe the "split" is actually the inner race for the old upper bearing. I think that using it is redundant--you already have the inner race on the new bearing (with wire that goes down the column and exits in the column notch.)

My 60 had the separate split washer and I reused it. Also it was called out specifically in the steering gear rebuild instructions that I used that were done by Tom Parsons. His instruction called it out as "..a split retainer which puts preload pressure on the upper bearing when the spring and steering wheel are installed."

So is it absolutely necessary, I don't have a clue!!