1960 Armrests

[Joe M.]

I purchased new armrest covers and ready to install them. Were they padded? If so, what would I use that is similar to original padding?

I also installed new bottom seal on the side window and polished the stainless steel frame. Will the window go back into the door if the garnish molding and the reveal molding are in place?

The ST-12 doesn't say anything about removing the two moldings before taking the window out of the door. If I insert the window first, then install the two moldings, I don't see how I would be able to get the fasteners on the moldings. The window raised up is in the way and the window down prevents access to the bottom of the two moldings. Advice would be appreciated.

[Donald H.]

Re: 1960 Armrests

Joe, I don't see how it would be possible to get the side glass into the door with the moldings in place. I don't think you will be able to get the bottom frame through the opening. I just reinstalled the guts and glass in my freshly painted doors. All went together pretty well, but it was a pain to get the nuts on the two outer garnish molding retainers.

[Joe M.]

Re: 1960 Armrests

Donald, did you use any padding on your armrests?

Did you install the nuts on the moldings by raising the window glass to the top and then reaching up with several socket extensions connected together? I believe I pulled out the window assembly without removing the moldings, but I had to force it passed the moldings and now that they are polished and most of the scratches removed, I will not force the glass assembly back in. I am certain in the past 23 years, I have encountered other nuts that were equally difficult to install; multiple instances.

Is it difficult to attach the glass assembly back on the rail and get the nylon wheel back in the track?

[Bob M.]

Re: 1960 Armrests

Joe,
If you raise the window all the way up you can't get the nuts on the bolts. Try half way and see if you can get your tools up there to get the outside nuts on, if not raise it a little so you can work in the limited space, I know you can do it.

[Donald H.]

Re: 1960 Armrests

Joe, I bought new complete armrest assemblies from Al Knoch. I'm out of town so I can't check, but as I recall there is some padding between the cover and the armrest support assembly.

I had a very hard time getting the nuts on the two retainers on the outside moldings. because of the angle of the glass and the bottom drip seal, it is almost impossible to get any kind of socket onto the nut, especially since the bolt wobbles around quite a bit. What I finally did was leave the molding off, put the bolts through the slots in the top of the door, then put the nut on the two bolts (or whatever you call them). Then I was able to push the molding onto the head by depressing the tension spring on the bolts. To tighten them I found it much easier to used a boxed end wrench with the window most of the way up and reach in and up to get the box end wrench on the nut to tighten. I've not been able to get a socket onto the nuts regardless of the length of the sockets (and I have three different sets if 1/4" sockets) or swivel attachments. I've had them off again recently. I had two of the staples holding the felt that were scratching the stainless window frames. The last time I put the moldings back on I had the bolts already on the molding and I actually put the nuts on the box end wrench and used it to get the nuts started. Very frustrating and takes a lot of patience.

Don

[Richard M.]

Re: 1960 Armrests

Joe, IIRC, the ST12 tells you to remove the INNER molding in order to remove the side glass. I recently reinstalled side windows and trims on a '59.

This is how I reinstalled them. On this '59, it uses the earlier OUTER molding retainers that are held into the door top held in with 3 small screws. It should make no difference for your later type that uses the molding clips. Past thread HERE.

FIRST step......If you got new reproduction horizontal fuzzies for the moldings, make sure you crush all 4 curved areas(near door post) in a vice or you will be doing the following operations twice. The glass will bind in those areas if you don't. The repro fuzzies are too thick.

Install door post. Don't forget the flat washer and 10-24 nut on the outer rear 10-24 stud of the post.

Install the OUTER garnish molding. There will be enough room to get the glass in the door with the OUTER installed, both not both OUTER and INNER.

Remove the REAR vertical glass channel if not out already. This gives more clearance to get the glass in. ST12 does not say this but it should IMO.

Make sure the FRONT upper window stop assembly is installed. The REAR upper window stop can go in after the window is installed.

Install the side glass into the door. The trick is to get the lower sash brackets to it into the openings, and into the FRONT window post run. You may have to spread the opening of the door top slightly to get the the brackets through. Carefully slide the FORWARD roller wheel into the forward track. You cannot see it easily so you have to 'feel' your way in. Try not to force too hard as you don't want to break the roller. Before the window goes down, carefully align the REAR vertical channel into position, from the bottom, heading upwards. This may take a little wiggling. Attach it with the 2 Philips screws loosely.

Once you get the glass in position, you should be able to get the lower horizontal channel attached to the sash brackets.

After that you can then install the INNER reveal molding as it attaches with 4 screws to the inner top panel of the door.

Test window operation. Hopefully you won't have to remove everything again to crush those darn fuzzies again.

Rich