Garage Floor Paint

[Dan D.]

I know there are previous threads on this subject, and I have read them. But I would like to re-fresh this one last time and get the latest opinions from other members.

I have taken a several month leave of absence from ole #4122 and built a new garage to keep her in. I am to the point where floor paint is about the only thing left. Floor is about 5 months old, 4000psi, fiberglass reinforced and machine screeted - very smooth.

Just interested in what other member opinions are regarding paint type before I go and buy some. I was not going to do this until the weather warned up, but we are basking in so much sunshine and warm weather here in upstate NY, it is scary. Present and long term forecast is very good, so I think I can work in in now.

I will post some pics of the garage soon - for your viewing pleasure. I think I have overdone it some - it is close to being living room quality. But like I said, nothing is too good for ole #4122.

Thanks guys. I value your opinions greatly,

-Dan-

[Tom L.]

Re: Garage Floor Paint

Congrats on the garage!!! Mine is the favorite room in the house, not sure if they can be too nice. I used this stuff http://www.epoxy-coat.com/. One of the few that are 100% epoxy. I also put it on virgin concrete hoping to have the best possible application.

Fantastic for spills and clean up, and no problems with hot tire pick-up. Not so much on impact resistance. Drop a wrench, chip. Drag something heavy accross it like jacking the car without a plate under the wheels, chip. I have a friend that put http://www.ucoatit.com/2011web/main.htm on it and had similar issues. Simply put, it's probably great for a non-working garage. If you plan on working in the garage you should expect chips.

Not sure I can make a reccomendation but these are my experiences. Surely others will chime in. Good luck!!!

[Paul J.]

Re: Garage Floor Paint

Dan, I use a water based clear concreate sealer. These are sold at your local home center and the brand is not important as they all are about the same. The longest application that I have is 12 years and still going strong. There is no hot tire lift, no chipping, it's not slippery, and water beads up on it. Supposedly you can apply more coats but I have'nt had to. Unlike epoxy coatings, application is simple (pour it on and brush it out with a push broom) and there is no clean up. My only complaint is that hot tires will stain it, but you can scrub these stains out if you wish.

Paints and epoxies are subject to hot tire lift and chipping as Lynn stated. These finishes sit on top of the concrete leaving a layer that takes the abuse, whereas sealers soak into the concrete and the concrete takes the abuse. Epoxies also require etching of the suface to gain more tooth. Some paints and epoxies are susceptable to degradation if you leave gasoline or oil on them for prolonged periods. This is not the case with water based sealers. If you go with a paint or epoxy do not use the plastic flakes that come with the kit. The first time you drop a screw you'll know why.

Paints and epoxies leave a great looking, durable finish, but it's not indestructable and I have other things to do than repair the finishes on my floors.

Paul

[Gary C.]

Re: Garage Floor Paint

Dan,

Recommend first thing to do is to define the goal/objective for floor coating for your floor.

Secondly, might check with Home Depot or Lowe's to find out what the finish is they put on their big box store floors. It seems to hold up pretty good.

If you decide to do epoxy floor coating yourself, I can share how to info.

Gary
....

[Dick W.]

Re: Garage Floor Paint

There was a very informative discussion, about floor painting, a couple or so years ago. Do a search and there is more information than you every wanted to know about floor finishes.

[Paul J.]

Re: Garage Floor Paint

Secondly, might check with Home Depot or Lowe's to find out what the finish is they put on their big box store floors. It seems to hold up pretty good.

Gary, Home Depot, Lowes, and others use the same epoxy coatings that manufacturing plants use. These are applied by professionals and are not like anything that you'll find on thier shelves. I once saw a contractor spend days etching and grinding a plant floor before he put down the epoxy.

I don't know if these coatings are available outside of the construction industry, but if they are, I'm sure that they are very expensive.

Dan, if your interested in this type of coating I would call any industrial general contrator, find out who his flooring subcontractor is and call him. If you try calling flooring contractors first you might not get one who installs the kind of floors that Gary is talking about.

Paul

[John F.]

Re: Garage Floor Paint

One of my neighbors just put down the rubberized floor matting from Walmart. It looks great and spills clean up. I am thinking about doing it over 16 year old concrete.

[Chris S.]

Re: Garage Floor Paint

first round I did my floor with Dupont Aquapon - it was more like a paint than a coating
I sanded the entire floor and recoated it wil Expoxy coat - I LOVE IT
I changed my floor jack to hard rubber casters
it will scratch if you drag something on it - but it wears very very well

[John H.]

Re: Garage Floor Paint

There are two keys to a successful and long-lasting garage floor coating application - zero moisture migration through the slab, and preparation that creates "tooth" for the coating to stick to. I have both a 10-mil moisture barrier (on the soil side) and 5/8"-thick 4' x 8' sheets of tongue-and-groove high-density closed-cell foam with heavy foil on both sides under my 2600 sq. ft. slab, and Home Pro Floors (www.homeprofloors.com) steel shot-blasted the surface to provide the "tooth" before applying two coats (24 hours apart) of heavy-duty solvent-based industrial epoxy coating 12 years ago. The floor is absolutely indestructible, still looks like it was poured yesterday, and is warm and dry even in the middle of a Michigan winter.

[Pat M.]

Re: Garage Floor Paint

There are two keys to a successful and long-lasting garage floor coating application - zero moisture migration through the slab, and preparation that creates "tooth" for the coating to stick to. I have both a 10-mil moisture barrier (on the soil side) and 5/8"-thick 4' x 8' sheets of tongue-and-groove high-density closed-cell foam with heavy foil on both sides under my 2600 sq. ft. slab, and Home Pro Floors (www.homeprofloors.com) steel shot-blasted the surface to provide the "tooth" before applying two coats (24 hours apart) of heavy-duty solvent-based industrial epoxy coating 12 years ago. The floor is absolutely indestructible, still looks like it was poured yesterday, and is warm and dry even in the middle of a Michigan winter.

Based on previously-posted pictures, John's is the most impressive flooring I've seen.

[Patrick H.]

Re: Garage Floor Paint

Based on previously-posted pictures, John's is the most impressive flooring I've seen.

First hand visits would back that up.

[Pat M.]

Re: Garage Floor Paint

First hand visits would back that up.

I believe it. Can you score me a visit?

[Carnell M.]

Re: Garage Floor Paint

There's a lot of good info on garagejournal.com You can see some step by step processes for different types of flooring

[Dick W.]

Re: Garage Floor Paint

I did the farm shop with Armorseal epoxy/urethane. Primed the floor and then top coated it. The only thing I found that would damage it was weld splatter. It would leave black spots on it. No matter how much you twisted and turned with a tractor, all was there was a few black marks. Those would wash off rather easily.

[Dan D.]

Re: Garage Floor Paint

Thanks Guys for your responses.

Lynn, I looked at both web sites you listed, and I am looking seriously at epoxy-coat at this time.

Paul, I was at both Lowes and HD yesterday and did not see any clear sealers, but I did not ask either. But I prefer a color.

Gary, my goal and objective is to have the most durable coating can get without going to extreme measures and cost like shot blasting, industrial coating professionally applied, etc. The intended use of this garage is to store the car in and do light mechanical work. I don't plan on doing any grinding, cutting, or torch work in this garage. I still have my 2-1/2 car garage for the heavy work. The intent is to provide a clean, dry shop for the car. It also isolates it from the existing garage and out of sight to people entering the house from the garage, which is the case now.

Paul/Gary, I have always envied the finish on the big box stores floors- both the smoothness and the Clear finish. But they are not going to know what the finish is, and I probably could not buy it anyhow. I believe the clear sealer was probably applied when the floor was pored. This sealer is furnished by the cement truck company. You put it down when the cement is still being screeted(sp). I was supposed to get this with my floor, but it fell into a crack and did not get ordered. So I don't have it.

John F., I am going to look at the Walmart rubber panels, but I don't think I am going to go this route.

John H., I have read and looked at your floor in the archives, I have to admit, this has to be the best floor on the planet. My floor is not going to be of this quality, but I don't think I needs it to be.

One thing I learned in the archives, is my floor is fiberglass reinforced, and apparently the hairs will come up after etching, and have to be burned off before putting down the coating. Good to know.

I am going to look at Sherwin-Williams this afternoon.

I will post again, probably after I make a decision. Will also post some pics, and comment on lighting and heating.

Later -Dan-