Garage Floor Paint

[Jim S.]

Re: Garage Floor Paint

I second Dick's suggestion.

I don't know what the folks who did my garage used , but they did mention it was what they used in aircraft hangars.. That was 14 years ago . After I completed the tear down of my 66 it looked like heck ! Ground in grease ,oil, and various other fluids. So I then hand scrubbed the whole floor with paint thinner and 000 steel wool ,and spot treated parts of it with paint stripper where ever it had been hit by various over sprays ect.
Not to mention all the heavy and sharp objects I dragged across it over the years, like jack stands and floor jacks . It is all still there and still looks good !

About the only bad thing I can say about it is that it is not as shinny as it was when it was new , and the steel wool scrub probably was responsible for that !

Jim

[Dan D.]

Re: Garage Floor Paint

Here is kind of a summary of what I have learned, based on the many responses to this thread. I thank everyone who responded and offered suggestions and recommendations.

Here is what will not work;

1. Any one part floor paint.
2. The low end water based 2-part epoxies common in the big box stores.
3. A improperly prepared floor. Must be well cleaned, etched or shot blasted.

These are the coatings that work well, based on the many responses I received back;

1. Any of the 2-part solvent based 2-part, 100% solid epoxies such as U-coat it, Epoxy coat, S/W Armor seal, and many others.
2. The above products will withstand tire lift from hydrostatic pressure, brake fluid, tire scuffing, floor jacks, etc. They will apparently chip if something sharp is dropped on them.
3. All require the floor to be etched (Muratic acid or the etch supplied with the product) or shot blasted first. Shot blasting is the preferred method.
4. One interesting product is the one Mike Lasini suggested. The Eastwood POR-15 stuff. Everything they make seems to be different than any other product on the market. This one is no exception. I called them today with several questions. Their responses below;

1. All of the normal stuff - no problem with tire lift, brake fluid, jack stands, etc.
2. Dick W. - he did not know what Skydrol is. You say it is an aircraft hydralic fluid. Not sure how this pertains to cars. Is it similar to brake fluid only worse?
3. They do not want you to etch first. Claim that can interfere with the adhesion, especially if the acid is not neutralized well.
4. A special degreaser is supplied with the kit (not Marine Clean). That is all you need.
5. Best applied over bare concrete.
6. Two coats required, applied within 24 hours.
7. Nasty stuff. Good ventilation and respirator are required.
8 Warrantied for 10 years.
9. Did not seem to know if it was an epoxy or not. It is 2 part.
10. Under $300 for 500 square foot kit.

I tried to sort out the facts and rejuct the lip service. Not sure just how good it is. Has anyone here used this product before? It has been out for about 2 years. I know some people on this forum do not like the POR-15 stuff, but I do.

I have not made a decision yet, but plan to do so within a few days.

-Dan-

[Zale P.]

Re: Garage Floor Paint

I used 2 boxes of Sherwin Williams epoxy garage paint with the flakes to sprinkle on top... 33 year old house that we bought 1.5 years ago...

Pressure washed the floor with just water, and it came out perfect and have had no problems!!! Only $75. per box...

I can't stand that Behr Paint Home Depot sells nor that Lowe's paint.... Sherwin Williams paint is far superior!!!

Has to resist the Texas Sun down here!!!!

Cheers, Zale

[Dan D.]

Re: Garage Floor Paint

Here is kind of a summary of what I have learned, based on the many responses to this thread. I thank everyone who responded and offered suggestions and recommendations.

Here is what will not work;

1. Any one part floor paint.
2. The low end water based 2-part epoxies common in the big box stores.
3. A improperly prepared floor. Must be well cleaned, etched or shot blasted.

These are the coatings that work well, based on the many responses I received back;

1. Any of the 2-part solvent based 2-part, 100% solid epoxies such as U-coat it, Epoxy coat, S/W Armor seal, and many others.
2. The above products will withstand tire lift from hydrostatic pressure, brake fluid, tire scuffing, floor jacks, etc. They will apparently chip if something sharp is dropped on them.
3. All require the floor to be etched (Muratic acid or the etch supplied with the product) or shot blasted first. Shot blasting is the preferred method.
4. One interesting product is the one Mike Lasini suggested. The Eastwood POR-15 stuff. Everything they make seems to be different than any other product on the market. This one is no exception. I called them today with several questions. Their responses below;

1. All of the normal stuff - no problem with tire lift, brake fluid, jack stands, etc.
2. Dick W. - he did not know what Skydrol is. You say it is an aircraft hydralic fluid. Not sure how this pertains to cars. Is it similar to brake fluid only worse?
3. They do not want you to etch first. Claim that can interfere with the adhesion, especially if the acid is not neutralized well.
4. A special degreaser is supplied with the kit (not Marine Clean). That is all you need.
5. Best applied over bare concrete.
6. Two coats required, applied within 24 hours.
7. Nasty stuff. Good ventilation and respirator are required.
8 Warrantied for 10 years.
9. Did not seem to know if it was an epoxy or not. It is 2 part.
10. Under $300 for 500 square foot kit.

I tried to sort out the facts and rejuct the lip service. Not sure just how good it is. Has anyone here used this product before? It has been out for about 2 years. I know some people on this forum do not like the POR-15 stuff, but I do.

I have not made a decision yet, but plan to do so within a few days.

-Dan-

Okay guys, I have been meaning to respond back on my results, as I was asked to do. The floor has been painted since late March but I have been holding off on posting the results in order to have more time on the floor to see how well it is actually holding up. But reading Don's post today, it is time I posted my results.

I decided to use the Eastwood POR-15 Floor Armour. Regardless of some other people's opinion on this board, regular POR-15 paint is very durable, so I decided to give their floor paint a try. Like all POR-15 products, it is unlike ant other paint out there. First, they do not want you to etch, or even wash the existing floor. Just broom sweep and treat any oil spots with a sealer that is provided in the kit. Must be applied over bare concrete, which being new construction, is what I have.

It is not an epoxy, I believe it is a urethane but they do not say. You put on 2 coats within 24 hours. Both coats are the same material and is 2-part. Was not impressed with their technical support people on 2 separate phone calls. More salesmen than technical support.

So how pleased am I with it? Fair to medium: It is impervious to hot tire lift and all chemicals - including thinner and DOT 3. I chose light gray color, and it is very bright and shiny. On the down side, it scuffs very easily, but the scuff marks are easily removed with Simple Green or even just plain water. Oil and grease wipe right up.

Worst part - it will chip and scrape if heavy steel objects (floor jacks) and the like are dragged over it. I think part of that problem is it is very slow curing. They tell you 1 week, but one week is not even close. I think it is still getting harder, 7 months later.

So would I do it again: probably not. I think I would probably choose the Sherwin Williams product recommended by several people on this thread. But I also think that chipping by hard steel objects is a very tough requirement for any coating. All members responding to this thread have said that even the 100% epoxies will chip.

I will follow up next spring and see what the winter does to it. No poly sheet under my slab. Huge mistake at the time of pour, as the material was on right there and in plain sight.

If Mike Lasini is reading this I would be interested in what you used and how well it is holding up. You said you were going to try POR-15.

I have posted a couple of pics .

-Dan-

[Richard M.]

Re: Garage Floor Paint

I used S-W Pro Industrial Expoxy on my new shop floor in 1995, has yet to peel, spilled brake fluid, battery acid, old gas, alky, nitro methane, you name it, and not
even a stain, I etched it first with muratic acid before painting.

Richard