I just recently found out that I didn't have the correct nuts on my exhaust manifolds. I replaced five without a problem The sixth stripped the threads on the stud. The engine hasn't ever been run but the entire exhaust system has been "locked down" in place. I finally got the nut off by cutting it with a fine burr and a dremmel tool. Is there anyway possible to get the stud out with removing the manifold? By the way, the studs have been replaced so they are new also.
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Re: Exhaust Stud Help Needed
I assume you want to remove the stud to repair the threads? You can purchase a thread chaser that is close in size to a nut. You can then run it up and down the stud with a deep neck socket. -
Re: Exhaust Stud Help Needed
If you have un-stripped threads left near the dog point of the stud, run two new (free-spinning, non-locking) nuts on as far as you can without reaching the stripped threads.
Using two wrenches, tighten the two nuts against one another. Remove the wrench from the nut closest to the end of the stud and try to loosen the other nut (the one closest to the stripped threads) while not holding the nut closest to the dog point end. The stud should loosen.Comment
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Re: Exhaust Stud Help Needed
The stud's threads are stripped almost at the very bottom. I can't get a nut started and no, I don't plan on repairing the stud. It's ruined.Comment
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Re: Exhaust Stud Help Needed
Sounds like vise grips next.
DOMComment
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Re: Exhaust Stud Help Needed
vice grips and some heat on the manifold will help. Since the engine has not been run, you may be able to get away with just a little heat and use a propane torch, versus a hotter one.Last edited by Anthony P.; August 10, 2011, 06:29 PM.Comment
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Re: Exhaust Stud Help Needed
If you can get to the top of the stud after you have it heated up well melt some wax on it and let it run down from the top where it comes through the manifold. It should come out easier.It's a good life!
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Re: Exhaust Stud Help Needed
you can buy reverse twist drill bits for using in a reversible electricral drill. if you start drilling the stud and it is not frozen most likely the drill bit will spin the stud out. it has worked for meComment
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Re: Exhaust Stud Help Needed
In otherwords they are called left hand drill bitsComment
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Re: Exhaust Stud Help Needed
Justin------
If these are new studs that were installed in relatively clean manifold threads, you should be able to turn them out easily using vice grips.
By the way, these studs should always be installed using high temperature anti-seize compound.In Appreciation of John HinckleyComment
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Re: Exhaust Stud Help Needed
Justin,
Here's some more ideas for you:
JoeComment
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Re: Exhaust Stud Help Needed
As I recently installed some repop nuts on the studs on my 63 I noticed that the nuts had a very significant amount of prevailing torque (the torque it takes to overcome the thread interference in a Lock nut). The torque was much higher than I would expect in a normal GM lock nut. The torque was so high that the threads of the exhaust stud were deformed during installation.
I remedied this by adding wax to the nut before driving it. Original nuts always had a wax coating over the zinc or cad plating. The wax was adjusted by the original nut manufacturer to set the friction to achieve a predetermined run-down torque. I doubt that my repops had this wax as purchased.
Please be advised that if such nuts damage your studs in any way, the friction or thread interference is too great - there should be no appreciable thread galling (damage) caused by the nut. To avoid this, Melt some wax into the nut threads to decrease friction. Note that the deformation of the original nuts was also very closey controled. If the repop nut is deformed too much during manufacture, you may not be able to prevent stud damage by adding wax, so take a good look at the stud threads after you install the first one.Comment
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Re: Exhaust Stud Help Needed
Justin, good suggestions here, but I think that you need to either remove the manifold or at least loosen it enough to pull it away form the block 1/2" to 1". I would then soak it with Kroil for a day or so, then hit it on the end (as if driving it into the block), and then soak it with Kroil for another day or so. I would then first go to the vice grips, and if that did'nt work, I would go to the heat with the vice grips.
Whatever you do, both Kroil, the heat, or anything else will be most effective if you can put it directly on connection between the stud and the block.
Good luck,
PaulComment
Now the right handed ones---
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