correct freeze plugs, different depths? no markings

[Brandon T.]

Re: Freeze plugs: brass, no logo, correct depth

BINGO! might have found us a place to get them guys. However, I can't tell from the picture if thats the shallow or deep version?? I need to know that before I order but you know how it is when you call a place like this..

http://www.classicindustries.com/tru...ts/g11419.html

[Clem Z.]

Re: Freeze plugs: brass, no logo, correct depth

BINGO! might have found us a place to get them guys. However, I can't tell from the picture if thats the shallow or deep version?? I need to know that before I order but you know how it is when you call a place like this..

http://www.classicindustries.com/tru...ts/g11419.html

1-3/4" diameter are BBC size you need 1-5/8" for a SBC

[Brandon T.]

Re: Freeze plugs: brass, no logo, correct depth

I agree, I just thought if they're tied in with a company that makes them with no marking they can probably get 1 5/8's too plus a lot of people on here need the 1 3/4 for their bb's

I got the freezeplug out FINALLY was in a bad location, it's not rotted or anything it was leaking at the edge at the bottom no clue why it just up and started leaking.

I noticed on the back of the original one I remove it is labeled "MP" inside of a outline. I wonder what company that stands for? I could just buy a new set from them so if anyone knows what "MP" stand for please let me know. thanks

[Clem Z.]

Re: Freeze plugs: brass, no logo, correct depth

I agree, I just thought if they're tied in with a company that makes them with no marking they can probably get 1 5/8's too plus a lot of people on here need the 1 3/4 for their bb's

I got the freezeplug out FINALLY was in a bad location, it's not rotted or anything it was leaking at the edge at the bottom no clue why it just up and started leaking.

I noticed on the back of the original one I remove it is labeled "MP" inside of a outline. I wonder what company that stands for? I could just buy a new set from them so if anyone knows what "MP" stand for please let me know. thanks

when installing the new ones make sure you use non hardening permatex on the sealing surface. if the block is not been just "tanked" make sure you clean the blocks surface where the plugs fit seals.

[Terry M.]

Re: Freeze plugs: brass, no logo, correct depth

I agree, I just thought if they're tied in with a company that makes them with no marking they can probably get 1 5/8's too plus a lot of people on here need the 1 3/4 for their bb's

I got the freezeplug out FINALLY was in a bad location, it's not rotted or anything it was leaking at the edge at the bottom no clue why it just up and started leaking.

I noticed on the back of the original one I remove it is labeled "MP" inside of a outline. I wonder what company that stands for? I could just buy a new set from them so if anyone knows what "MP" stand for please let me know. thanks

Could it be MD? I found this on an Allice Chalmer's forum:

"Here's the the facts, as told by the Great Grandson of the company that originally manufactured them:

Brief History of the Welch Plug

by Nevin Hubbard of www.hubbardspring.com

A brief bit of totally obscure history that I am one of the few living persons who knows.

My family business, established in Pontiac, Michigan in 1905, is the original manufacturer of the "Welch" plug. The Welch brothers had a motor car company at the turn of the century that was later bought by General Motors - the Welch Motor Car company. They would run the cars around Pontiac to "break them in."

At that time core holes in the engine blocks were fitted with pipe plugs. During one of these run-ins a pipe plug backed out. In order to get back on the road one of the brothers drove a quarter or half dollar into the hole. From this they developed the Welch plug, some with the help of my Great Grandfather Martin Hubbard. They then patented the plug and the M.D. Hubbard Spring Company become the sole manufacturer of the Welch plug for the life of the patent. To this day we have the largest range of sizes available anywhere.

So the Welch plug in origin is an American innovation and name.

Best Regards,

Nevin Hubbard
M.D. Hubbard Spring Company

https://www.hubbardspring.com

There's a couple of excellent sources for plugs: The best of course is Hubbard Spring, which has the broadest range and greatest experience in properly installing them.

http://www.hubbardspring.com

A second, widely distributed product range is Dorman Products (they've been around since 1918) and their famous trays pf fasteners can be found in most quality, full-line hardware stores.

http://www.dormanproducts.com/c-238-concave-expansion-plugs.aspx

Whether you get expansion plugs from the tractor dealer or one of the sources above, do yourself a favor, go to the Hubbard Spring site and read the installation guides they provide.

There are as many wrong ways to install these plugs as there are so-called "Experts". The most important things to remember (and there are only three):

1. You are working on a not-new piece of machinery, so clean, and clean again. And then inspect the
bore. Make sure past leaks or damage caused by extracting the old plug haven't eroded or scored the
seating surface.

2. Use a sealant - and use the CORRECT sealant. Permatex #2 works well, and so does Permatex #1
(hardening) in most water environments. Materials like RTV - are NOT good - they actually will help
that plug to pop out. Just the slightest coating on the side wall of the bore where the shoulder of
the disc meets it will do.

3. Use the right driving tool. Hubbard Spring goes to great length to accurately describe the proper
tool for use in a manufacturing process. BUT - you are not a manufacturer. The best "tool" it turns
out is often the drive side of a socket that is slightly smaller that the diameter of the expansion
plug. Take your time to set the plug into the bore and make sure it is bottomed, set the "drive tool"
squarely to it, and rap it hard enough to cause that disc to compress to nearly flat. Don't bother
trying to use something much smaller and "tapping all around it" - you'll end up with a disc that
looks like it lost a war, and will just drop out of the hole.

Well, there you go - a bit of enduring American history and technology - and still relevant today."

Perhaps more than you wanted to know, but .....

[Brandon T.]

Re: Freeze plugs: brass, no logo, correct depth

thanks, and for the MP logo haven't found what that stands for yet but it's "MP" inside a diamond shaped outline.