Please help a rookie restorer..

[Jim D.]

Re: Please help a rookie restorer..

I have had numerous NCRS members come and view it they all have agreed that this is a very rare car.

The car has been view by many NCRS members who are suppose to be Jacksonville Fl resident experts and they could only find a few the front clips on the firewall not be original.

Scott I had a C# NCRS judge tell me if it looked like BC/CC they would have the owner wax a small section to prove it wasn't and if they didn't have paint on the rag it was a total deduct.

Sounds to me like you've hooked up with a bunch of "experts" that don't have any idea what they're talking about. There seems to be a lot of them out there.

[Ronald L.]

Re: Please help a rookie restorer..

John,

How does it run?

When I did one this way, with the motor in, a battery, and a can of gas you should be able to fire this puppy up!

[John M.]

Re: Please help a rookie restorer..

John,

How does it run?

When I did one this way, with the motor in, a battery, and a can of gas you should be able to fire this puppy up!

I've started twice since I've got it and it just unreal, I've wanted this car since I was knee high and to hear it run makes it all worth it. I'm hoping by this time next year she will be on the road, that all depends on the $$$ but I think it will be driveable but still needing minor improvements

[Rich P.]

Re: Please help a rookie restorer..

John, nice car!. If you are convinced that it is the original stamp on the motor and trans I would seriously concider finding and useing NOS pieces for the nose. Well at least the hood surround, fenders and fender skirts. The repro parts are thicker than originals. I just had a midyear judged at Kissame and the nationals this yeat that I put a full nose on minus 1 fender. It recived full credit because I used NOS parts and also because I knew how to assemble it to look excactly like original.

The NOS parts will add a few thousand to the cost but will also add the same if not more in value to the finished product.

Rich

[John M.]

Re: Please help a rookie restorer..

John, nice car!. If you are convinced that it is the original stamp on the motor and trans I would seriously concider finding and useing NOS pieces for the nose. Well at least the hood surround, fenders and fender skirts. The repro parts are thicker than originals. I just had a midyear judged at Kissame and the nationals this yeat that I put a full nose on minus 1 fender. It recived full credit because I used NOS parts and also because I knew how to assemble it to look excactly like original.

The NOS parts will add a few thousand to the cost but will also add the same if not more in value to the finished product.

Rich

Rich thanks thats the way I did it. cost was about 6k for all parts but at its not a one piece like ecklers sales. I'm looking for someone to install it,any recommendations?

[Mike M.]

Re: Please help a rookie restorer..

Rich thanks thats the way I did it. cost was about 6k for all parts but at its not a one piece like ecklers sales. I'm looking for someone to install it,any recommendations?

wayne womble.mike

[John M.]

Re: Please help a rookie restorer..

wayne womble.mike

Mike where is wayne womble located?

I found him he is in NC thanks hopefully he'll call me.

[Rich P.]

Re: Please help a rookie restorer..

John,

I'm very glad to hear that you got NOS parts for the nose. Having done many many mid year noses here's how would I recomend you proceed.

1. Wrap the motor and chassie as best as possible
2. Align and install the nose (all 20 something pieces)
3. Do all final flush fitting and gapping of the body panels.
4. Prime and block sand the body assembled till you are satisfied that there are no more flaws (panels flow from one to the next, waves removed, correct shape of panels, ) as you said you are going for better than factory so you want this car to be like the car comercial they had 10-15 years ago where the ball bearing was rolling around the gaps perfectly!!!
5. Take care of any fine details on the inside of the nose to make it look factory installed
6. Remove the body from the chassie and install on a dollie.
7. Paint and ploish the car.
8. Detail the engine compartment (Black out, primer and paint overspray, and undercoat)
9. Assemble all parts on the firewall and reinstall body onto chassie.

This is the only way you can really detail the car as the factory did and insure the highest point score.

Rich

[Rich P.]

Re: Please help a rookie restorer..

It is very hard to detail an engine compartment with the body on the chassie and get the factory type results.

[Rich P.]

Re: Please help a rookie restorer..

These are the last pics I'll bore you with. I just wanted to show that when the factory blacked out they were sloppy and missed alot of edges and I think it looks more authentic with some body color showing through.

Rich

[Scott S.]

Re: Please help a rookie restorer..

Great pictures Rich, thank you for posting them. The assembled evaporator box on the firewall is a thing of beauty

Do you have any pictures of the duct-housing behind the evaporator box you could send me? Mine was stamped full of holes, and before I make repairs it would help to see what it looked like before it was turned into a cheese-grater.

[Joe S.]

Re: Please help a rookie restorer..

John,

I am in the exact same position you are with my 69 Coupe. It is not as rare as yours but all the numbers match and I (and my son) have done a frame off restoration. Abbsolutely Everything! This includes potential options she wasn't born with. First of all, I will never be able to recover the money, time, or blood that I have given to her. R, R, & R (Rebuild, Recondition, and Resell) are not the reasons I have taken on this project which just had a birthday. The restoration of this 69 has been on my bucket list since I owned a similar one in the early seventies. My plan is to restore it to top flight status and drive it. Will I show it? Sure. But I will enjoy driving her as much as showing her off. When I'm gone, it will belong to my son for him to enjoy. For my son and I, this is what we intended all along. Good Luck!

[John M.]

Re: Please help a rookie restorer..

John,

I'm very glad to hear that you got NOS parts for the nose. Having done many many mid year noses here's how would I recomend you proceed.

1. Wrap the motor and chassie as best as possible
2. Align and install the nose (all 20 something pieces)
3. Do all final flush fitting and gapping of the body panels.
4. Prime and block sand the body assembled till you are satisfied that there are no more flaws (panels flow from one to the next, waves removed, correct shape of panels, ) as you said you are going for better than factory so you want this car to be like the car comercial they had 10-15 years ago where the ball bearing was rolling around the gaps perfectly!!!
5. Take care of any fine details on the inside of the nose to make it look factory installed
6. Remove the body from the chassie and install on a dollie.
7. Paint and ploish the car.
8. Detail the engine compartment (Black out, primer and paint overspray, and undercoat)
9. Assemble all parts on the firewall and reinstall body onto chassie.

This is the only way you can really detail the car as the factory did and insure the highest point score.

Rich

Rich I wish you were a little closer then PA. thats some awesome work. thanks for the help. I wish I could afforad to send you the car.

[John M.]

Re: Please help a rookie restorer..

John,

I am in the exact same position you are with my 69 Coupe. It is not as rare as yours but all the numbers match and I (and my son) have done a frame off restoration. Abbsolutely Everything! This includes potential options she wasn't born with. First of all, I will never be able to recover the money, time, or blood that I have given to her. R, R, & R (Rebuild, Recondition, and Resell) are not the reasons I have taken on this project which just had a birthday. The restoration of this 69 has been on my bucket list since I owned a similar one in the early seventies. My plan is to restore it to top flight status and drive it. Will I show it? Sure. But I will enjoy driving her as much as showing her off. When I'm gone, it will belong to my son for him to enjoy. For my son and I, this is what we intended all along. Good Luck!

understand and thanks for the honest suggestions.

[Scott S.]

Re: Please help a rookie restorer..

Scott thanks this is just what has been driving me crazy. One or more of you NCRS judges please chime in on scotts question. Scott I had a C# NCRS judge tell me if it looked like BC/CC they would have the owner wax a small section to prove it wasn't and if they didn't have paint on the rag it was a total deduct. Man this is worst then trying to understand golf rules...and I ve been doing that since I was 10

Hi John,

I have heard NCRS members say their understanding is that if your paint is the wrong color, then it's an automatic 170-point deduct. I have heard other NCRS members say they think otherwise, but nobody seems sure (I'm certainly not sure), so it would be helpful to have clarification using a specific example like the one I provided.

The "Body Color" is a separate category from "Body Paint". Everyone seems agreed that you lose all 85 points in the "Body Color" category if the color does not match the Trim Tag - but if the paint (regardless of color) has a factory appearance, then some say you get points in the "Originality" subsection of the "Body Paint" category (possible 45 points 'Originality' subsection, 40 points 'Condition' subsection).

My understanding is that if you obtain 10% or more of available "Originality" points (e.g., 4.5 points or more out of 45 available in the "Originality" subsection of the "Body Paint" category), then you are eligible to move on to the "Condition" scoring subsection of the "Body Paint" category.

If that is correct, then you could have the wrong Body Color, lose all 85 points in the "Body Color" category, but still obtain up to 62.5 points out of 85 possible in the "Body Paint" category (i.e., 22.5 Originality points and 40 Condition points under "Body Paint").

Will someone knowledgeable in Paint Judging please confirm or clarify?