Changing Heat Riser B'Fly Valve on 63 L-76

[Timothy B.]

Re: Changing Heat Riser B'Fly Valve on 63 L-76

Stu,

Why are you changing the heat riser? If it's not leaking just wire it open and retain the original configuration.. I don't think the flow is any better with the F/I spacer as the valve will open fairly straight.

I realize you are trying to control heat to the manifold, I am not sure you are gaining anything for the effort..

[Stuart F.]

Re: Changing Heat Riser B'Fly Valve on 63 L-76

Tim;

The last time I had my manifolds cleaned and refinished, the shop that did the work had a mechanic from East Yarmanyczek or some place and he put the valve on with the weight arm facing front (this, believe it or not, makes it much more difficult to wire open). Whether it is wired open or functioning, it doesn't seem to matter any more due to the other changes I've made in the carburetion to handle the Gasahol percolation problem. When I was attacking that problem last year (stinky garage, etc), I pulled out all the stops including the manifold heat source. At that time the wired valve seemed to help, so I figured I'd go one better. I got the F.I spacer and ground it out round inside (eliminated the casting flats for the butterfly). Right now, it seems as though having the valve in place is only for the purpose of originality. I don't need it here at all for at least 9 months out of the year, and only for 5 or 10 minutes after each start for the other 3 months.

You might wonder why I had someone else work on the car some 15 years ago or so. Well, I wasn't physically able to do much more than drive it occasionally back then and I hit a deer. The car was shopped for about three months so I gave them a long laundry list of mutually agreed mechanical items to keep them busy while the body work was underway. For the most part they did good and reasonable work, but stole a number of original items to supplement their income (long story).

Stu Fox

[Donald O.]

Re: Changing Heat Riser B'Fly Valve on 63 L-76

Not wanting to impose on another current thread about "Changing Exhaust System", I have a related question that perhaps someone has delt with b4 me.

I want to replace my Heat Riser Butterfly valve with an F.I. spacer that I have ground out round. Can I do this without removing my R.H side exhaust pipe - perhaps loosen and turn to clear manifold studs??? I already have new gaskets and donut, and my studs are not rusted.

Opinions please before I dig into it. Going under a car is no fun any more for someone my age, and I don't like surprises either.

Stu Fox

Stu
for me the best solution was to remove the B_F valve from the exhaust system. Then remove the butterfly from the valve leaving the spring, counter weight and pivot axis in place. I removed the butterfly flapper with a Dremel tool and its small cut-off disc. It looks totally stock, the judge can operate the flapper counter weight, and it make the exhaust sound balanced at the tailpipes.

Don

[Stuart F.]

Re: Changing Heat Riser B'Fly Valve on 63 L-76

Don;

An interesting approach. I'll keep it in mind.

Thanks.

Stu Fox

[Brian M.]

Re: Changing Heat Riser B'Fly Valve on 63 L-76

I did the same as Don. quote=Donald Olson (17357);512166]Stu
for me the best solution was to remove the B_F valve from the exhaust system. Then remove the butterfly from the valve leaving the spring, counter weight and pivot axis in place. I removed the butterfly flapper with a Dremel tool and its small cut-off disc. It looks totally stock, the judge can operate the flapper counter weight, and it make the exhaust sound balanced at the tailpipes.

Don[/quote]