Re: Trailing arm rebuild source in Ohio area..or close by..
Hi guys
I just saw this thread and my name mentioned so I figured I would add my .02
First off I know and deal with Brian Bair & Cindy all the time. Top knotch people and company, I have nothing but good to say about them.
Looking over the list printed I pretty much do the same except for riviting the rotors and facing them. There is nothing wrong with that, I just prefer to bolt them on giving the owner the option of removing the rotor if ever needed. I have seen plenty of new SS pb springs come through too long on the hook and if not fit will pop off from the lever. The second reason is I don't want to remove any material if I can from the rotor. A kiss cut is only a few thousands but the window on rotors is 035 between new and discard.
Cost really depends on the arms as rec'd. Many times I get arms in that have been "worked" on or maybe I should say "worked over". I'd rather work on an original rusted,dirty, 40-year old arm with the rotors still riveted on then one a shop "rebuild" in the past. I've found spindles cut with a torch,parking shoes held on with sheet metal screws,spindles hammered out and wrecked,spindles slip fit, bearings either too loose or binding, rotors undersize,etc.
My advice if using a local shop is to talk to them. Yes the cost of shipping to Bairs,myself, or others is not cheap but in the long run it could save you a lot of time and money.
Questions I would ask any rebuilder:
Hi guys
I just saw this thread and my name mentioned so I figured I would add my .02
First off I know and deal with Brian Bair & Cindy all the time. Top knotch people and company, I have nothing but good to say about them.
Looking over the list printed I pretty much do the same except for riviting the rotors and facing them. There is nothing wrong with that, I just prefer to bolt them on giving the owner the option of removing the rotor if ever needed. I have seen plenty of new SS pb springs come through too long on the hook and if not fit will pop off from the lever. The second reason is I don't want to remove any material if I can from the rotor. A kiss cut is only a few thousands but the window on rotors is 035 between new and discard.
Cost really depends on the arms as rec'd. Many times I get arms in that have been "worked" on or maybe I should say "worked over". I'd rather work on an original rusted,dirty, 40-year old arm with the rotors still riveted on then one a shop "rebuild" in the past. I've found spindles cut with a torch,parking shoes held on with sheet metal screws,spindles hammered out and wrecked,spindles slip fit, bearings either too loose or binding, rotors undersize,etc.
My advice if using a local shop is to talk to them. Yes the cost of shipping to Bairs,myself, or others is not cheap but in the long run it could save you a lot of time and money.
Questions I would ask any rebuilder:
- What brand of bearings used? I use ONLY USA Timkens. I've seen chinese,mexican,polish and who knows where else some are made these days. I have heard some rebuilders tell people they only use special bearings, made in Germany. These are not special bearings but you do want quality. Again my choice are the Timken's.
- what is the spec they are set to? Anyone going to Carlisle next week will see a LOT of vendors selling arms. Most don't rebuild them, just resell. I've seen arms with spindles I couldn't move and others I couls very easily push/pull over 003". A lot of rebuilders will tell people they build them to spec,which is 001-008" endplay. Over 003" you can push by hand. I set mine to 0015-002 and can only achieve this by using a surface grinder to machine fit the parts. Any good rebuilder should be able to tell you and show you if you pick them up the endplay. If not I would move on.
- A common theme I also hear is getting a call that the spindles are bent and need to be replaced. Now if indeed a car is hit hard at the wheel then this is possible. However, on a car that was never hit and never had the rotors off it's an odd occurance indeed. Keep in mind the spindle flange were rough faced,the rotor installed and final turned, true to center. You can find spindle flange runout on just about every original spindle, that doesn't mean they are bent but it could mean additional sales for someone.
- Replacing rotors and spindles will result in rotor runout. Sometimes the runout is good, under 003. Most times it's not sometimes as high as 015". I have faced spindle flanges in a lathe and still have runout since the rotor and flange are not an assembled machine unit. Hence the facing or shimming to correct.
- Grease used. Again some claim to use special formulations. I have used Mobil 1 for years until they changed it a year or so ago. I did notice increased drag using it in 0015 setups. Enough that I didn't like it and stopped using it. After consulting with Timken I use their bearing grease and like it much better. It is not easy to get though. Lucas Red & Tacky is similar if not the same grease and that you can get anywhere.
- Seals. I use only CR/SKF. They cost more. I don't like some of the new seals I've seen on the market and the savings is only a couple of bucks. Use the CR.
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