Protecting bare metal components

[Dan H.]

Re: Protecting bare metal components

Doug, just for fun, go to the Archives and put in 'c2 idler arm finish' which talks about front and rear 63/64 finishes.
Dan

[Alan D.]

Re: Protecting bare metal components

A couple of other products, try Rust-Oleum Rust Inhibitor so far after 9 months it is holding up. Don't spray on toooo much, it does seem to dry however you can feel an oily film.
Or NAPA Silicon Spray only in blue can, Mac's 8300. Was told its a different formula then the others. It will dry and just like Prelub you must apply every so often.


As for the Rear Suspension see if you can find the Motor Trend, Sept 64 picture of the under side, its black. The JG does have a text line about some being black so one could use that as an argument as to why its black.

This contest has been waging for a while with more and more credible members agreeing with the entire black out however that will not help much in the near future. Remember its simple to paint black if that becomes accepted.

[Dan H.]

Re: Protecting bare metal components

Doug, relying on the JG as the altimate source of information may not result in you correctly restoring your very nice car. Contact the Team Leader and see if an amendment is forth coming, or go see low mileage Bowtie cars and make your own judgements on how your car should appear. Redoing your car after each revision of a JG is not fun or cheap!
JMHO!
Dan

[Harry H.]

Re: Protecting bare metal components

Has anyone tried Nyalic? I am going to get a sample kit from them.

Harry

[Paul J.]

Re: Protecting bare metal components

Doug, You should really spend some time in the achives on this. The following thread has the pictures that you want to look at, as well as a discussion of the coating put on the suspension and frame.

https://www.forums.ncrs.org/showthre...64516&uid=7209

Don't get confused by the posters' references to "blackout" and "paint". This stuff is an asphalt based product that looks like thin undercoating. It was used as a preservative and in my mind is niether blackout or paint.

There is lot of discussion on this, and it is generally agreed that there is some evidence of this stuff on most 63-64's. It's on my 64, but it won't be when I finish the restoration.

Paul

[Doug L.]

Re: Protecting bare metal components

Hi Paul,
Thanks for the link to the 2008 thread. Very interesting. I'm going to have to think about all of this before I do much more on the suspension parts.
Doug

[Paul J.]

Re: Protecting bare metal components

Doug, one other thing, I've spoken with several people who don't want to recreate the black coating, or cover thier carefully restored suspension and drive train components and inspection marks with black paint. At this point in time, I'm one of those people.

Paul

[John D.]

Re: Protecting bare metal components

Hi Paul,
Thanks for the link to the 2008 thread. Very interesting. I'm going to have to think about all of this before I do much more on the suspension parts.
Doug

Hi Doug,

Also mentioned was Eastwood Diamond Clear Satin Finish for bare metal surfaces. Part #10300z. Fuel Resistant. Heat resistant to 350F. Non yellowing.
Its really good stuff. But it is detectable if you run you have over the "bare" part. Meaning that the sprayed surface tends to be a little rough or scratchy feeling.
Trick: Let the part dry for a few days then get nice Scott Towel and rub the painted surface like you were buffin it. Then the Diamond Clear is smooth to the touch and does a decent job. Make sure your bare surface is prepared first.

[Doug L.]

Re: Protecting bare metal components

Hi Paul,
I probably will be one too. If I can find a coating that prevents corrosion I will likely follow the JG where is says bare metal. I presumably can always clean the 'clear-coat' off and prime and paint the part should things change. The more I read the more I think the JG will change. It seems like there is too much evidence and logic supporting painted parts to contiue believing otherwise. One thread from 2008 (as I recall) talked about the JG calling for painted trailing arms with un-painted support arms. It just doesn't seem likely that a production line would assemble something like that after painting the individual parts.

Doug

[Reed F.]

Re: Protecting bare metal components

Anyone tried Gibbs spray and care to share their experiences? The claims sound too good to be true, always a caution sign.

[Anthony P.]

Re: Protecting bare metal components

I have used EASTWOOD Satin Clear metal spray, as well as Krylon satin, where I just lightly misted it on. I have done this for 10+ years to protect bare metal items in the engine bay, as well as under the car on restored classic cars I have. Also for front end components, such as tie rod ends, etc, that were hardened steel, after cleaning the metal very well, I rub Gun Blueing on the surfaces to protect it, as well as give it that slight bluish heat treated color.

(Disclaimer- I did this on 1960/70 mustangs and matched the factory finish very very well. I am not sure how close it is on the vetts since I am still new to them).

Hope that helps,

Tony