Protecting bare metal components

[Doug L.]

Hi,
I'm in the restoration process on my '64 and trying to deal with parts, such as the differential carrier, pitman arm, etc. that the JG says should be un-painted. Someone on the forum mentioned a Quanta product called "Pre Lube 6" as something to prevent rust on bare metal parts. Quanta's website says it goes on clear, produces a non-gloss finish and prevents rust. I ordered a can which has not arrived yet. Meanwhile my steering gear is being rebuild by Gary Ramadei and I told him I wanted to use Pre Lube 6 on the pitman arm. He ordered some which arrived today. Apparently the can says that the stuff will not dry on the part being coated. It remains "wet". I'm not certain this is what I want. I have not spoken to anyone at Quanta yet. Does anyone on the forum have experience with this product?

Thanks-Doug

[Terry M.]

Re: Protecting bare metal components

Hi,
I'm in the restoration process on my '64 and trying to deal with parts, such as the differential carrier, pitman arm, etc. that the JG says should be un-painted. Someone on the forum mentioned a Quanta product called "Pre Lube 6" as something to prevent rust on bare metal parts. Quanta's website says it goes on clear, produces a non-gloss finish and prevents rust. I ordered a can which has not arrived yet. Meanwhile my steering gear is being rebuild by Gary Ramadei and I told him I wanted to use Pre Lube 6 on the pitman arm. He ordered some which arrived today. Apparently the can says that the stuff will not dry on the part being coated. It remains "wet". I'm not certain this is what I want. I have not spoken to anyone at Quanta yet. Does anyone on the forum have experience with this product?

Thanks-Doug

It will remain "wet" for a couple of months. Not a big issue so long as you are prepared for it, but if you take your car for judging before a couple of months has elapsed the judges will think there is an oil leak someplace.

Edit add: It will not last forever. Depending on the conditions where you store/drive your Corvette you will have to re-apply it every couple of years or so. It also does not dry completely clear, but it will "dry" clear enough to generally not be an issue. I prefer buying it by the pail though.

[Larry M.]

Re: Protecting bare metal components

Pre-lube 6 is a good product, but is not a cure-all for keeping parts rust free. I consider it more of an "improved WD-40".

I use PL6 regularly on my bare engine pad to prevent rust. It stays a bit oily and needs reapplication about every 3 months here in SE Louisiana. Even then, some rusting still occurs.

I have found that EASTWOOD Satin Clear metal coating does an excellent job if you just mist it on. Prevents rust and is not really that noticeable. If you "really fog it on" it will be noticeable..... and will surely take a point(s) deduction during judging.

But I know many folks that use the Eastwood Satin on bare brake lines, bolts, and other bare metal parts and are quite happy....and their cars judge well. But the secret is a "fine mist coat".

FWIW.....Larry

[Dan H.]

Re: Protecting bare metal components

Hi,
I'm in the restoration process on my '64 and trying to deal with parts, such as the differential carrier, pitman arm, etc. that the JG says should be un-painted. Someone on the forum mentioned a Quanta product called "Pre Lube 6" as something to prevent rust on bare metal parts. Quanta's website says it goes on clear, produces a non-gloss finish and prevents rust. I ordered a can which has not arrived yet. Meanwhile my steering gear is being rebuild by Gary Ramadei and I told him I wanted to use Pre Lube 6 on the pitman arm. He ordered some which arrived today. Apparently the can says that the stuff will not dry on the part being coated. It remains "wet". I'm not certain this is what I want. I have not spoken to anyone at Quanta yet. Does anyone on the forum have experience with this product?

Thanks-Doug

Doug, research this topic in the Archives, also check out under body shots in Noland Adam's book of 64 chassis. The steering and rear end assemblies were painted with chassis paint prior to assembly to the car. Also, a walk around 'black out' was done to the completed chassis. The JG may need updates on this hopefully to better reflect the chassis at final assembly. Just a thought.
Dan

[Doug L.]

Re: Protecting bare metal components

Thanks for all of your responses. Dan in response to your comments, I have been using the JG to tell me what the finishes are supposed to be on various components. My JG was received within the last 2-3 months so I have to assume that it is the most up-to-date version. It is there that I am seeing that the diff, the pitman arm, the steering idler arm, the sterring linkage, and I think the drive shaft, half shafts and U-joints are all supposed to be bare metal. Painting would be so much easier, but according to the JG would not be correct.

I'm not certain which "Adams" photo to look at. There is a nice view on page 200, but in black and white. The differential seems to be painted but the steering linkage could be bare metal. It's really hard to tell and there is nothing in the caption to indicate if this is a period photo or one of a restored car. I'm thinking that since the JG is what the inspection will be based on I have to follow it until it gets changed.
Doug

[Larry E.]

Re: Protecting bare metal components

FWIW:
I been using a product called "Fluid Film" with excellant results. It can be
bought over the internet direct. Google "Fluid Film" for info.
Larry

[Gary R.]

Re: Protecting bare metal components

Hi Doug,guys
Just to add in to this conversation, I contacted the mfg of the product directly today. I was told by Quanta yesterday to spray this on and let it "dry" overnight. Needless to say that is not what the mfg. told me today. It goes on wet and stays wet. I was under the impression that this was a product made for the automotive industry but it is not. It's a cable lube used on aircraft, helicopters. I have no question it is a very good product but not what Doug or I expected. I shot some on a spindle almost 4 hours ago and it's as wet as when I shot it.

I have done a lot of Diff's,boxes, T/A's etc and always try to accomodate the owners requests. As a result parts are etched,POR15's & painted black or cast blast, left bare, coated with spindle oil, shot with various clears, as well as some coatings shipped to me.

I have the Eastwoods satin clear here but stopped using it on these parts because of the heat generated in or near them. It caused the clear to peel in short order. I have used it on the steel lines as mentioned without a problem.

I have a sample of a product called Fluid Film. I was given this at the Eastec machine-tool show last May but haven't used it on anything yet. I have a call into the Mfg as well. Has anyone used this product?

[Gary R.]

Re: Protecting bare metal components

Larry you must have been typing when I was. Does the Fluid flim dry to the touch in a short time?

[Larry E.]

Re: Protecting bare metal components

Gary:
Yes: Dries very fast; leaves an invisible shield. So far so good with the
product. Use it on my Covettes/Camaros.FYI
Larry

[Gary R.]

Re: Protecting bare metal components

Thanks Larry
I just spoke to a tech from Fluid Film and he said to spray it on, let it sit for 10-30 minutes and wipe it off,like a wax. He said it wouldn't change color, if anything make it shiney. Is that what you experienced or did you not wipe it down.

Doug, sorry I didn't mean to hijack this thread on you.

[Larry E.]

Re: Protecting bare metal components

Doug:
If you asking me I do wipe it down if I can get to it. Some places are
so tight I just leave it alone; with same results. Of course I don't know
the longivity of the product before you have to apply it again.
Larry

[Terry M.]

Re: Protecting bare metal components

Hi Doug,guys
Just to add in to this conversation, I contacted the mfg of the product directly today. I was told by Quanta yesterday to spray this on and let it "dry" overnight. Needless to say that is not what the mfg. told me today. It goes on wet and stays wet. I was under the impression that this was a product made for the automotive industry but it is not. It's a cable lube used on aircraft, helicopters. I have no question it is a very good product but not what Doug or I expected. I shot some on a spindle almost 4 hours ago and it's as wet as when I shot it.

http://www.grignard.com/pdfs/wire_rope_productsheet.pdf

Let your mouse navigate the web. There are many products out there. Whether any are suitable for you is up to you to decide.

[Frank P.]

Re: Protecting bare metal components

Gentlemen:

High Heat clear is available in clear satin as is Nu-Cast Cast Iron and Flat Aluminum from VHT. VHT is a Krylon company (Sherwin Williams) and is found in most auto parts stores, or from Krylon Industrial distributors. Temperature range is 1300F-2000F
Frank

[Dennis S.]

Re: Protecting bare metal components

Doug
I was told by Dave Walters to use CRC SP-400 on bare steel or castings to prevent corrosion. He uses it on his '67 L88, which was restored in 1991. He has no rust issues today and simply puts the car on a rack and wipes the parts down with a fresh coat every year. It goes on wet with a yellowish hue, but somewhat dries over time and loses the color. It can easily be removed with any solvent. I used it on my pitman arm last summer, as well as the steering cylinder bracket, coil springs, tie rods, relay rod, driveshaft, half shafts and any bare steel parts that should be kept that way. Here is a picture I just took, after sitting in the south Florida humidity since then. No cast blast, clear or satin sealers for me.....I'll leave that for the next caretaker.

[Doug L.]

Re: Protecting bare metal components

Hi all,
Thanks for your responses. Gary, who is rebuilding my steering box, differntial and trailing arms had some fluid film and has applied it to the pitman arm. In the photos he sent to me it looks good. Very similar in appearance to the photo of Dennis' part.

I did take a look at the Fluid Film web site where an FAQ says: "Because Fluid Film leaves a wet, non-drying film and imbeds itself in the pores of the metal, any surface treated with Fluid Film should be wiped down with a good biodegradable cleaner before painting." So it does say wet like the Pre Lube product.

I have asked Gary to treat the other to-be-unpainted pieces with Fluid Film since he has it in stock. I have other components that I an restoring myself and I will put Pre Lube (on order but not yet received) on them. It will be some time before I put the body back on the frame so I will have the opportunity to observe the effects of both products. I'll write a report and put it on the TD board. I'm in South Florida too so salt air and humidity are constants. This environment should be a good test for the products. If one product or the other is not performig well in the short term I'll buy some of the other recommended products and try them.

Doug