Puling the motor

[Dennis S.]

Re: Puling the motor

Todd------


I'm EXTREMELY surprised that you had enough reach with even a 2 ton engine hoist (cherry picker). I have a 2 ton hoist and it does not have nearly enough reach to remove the engine on my 1969. In fact, I've never seen a hoist that does have enough reach to pluck the engine out or in FROM THE FRONT for a C3 Corvette. Usually, you have to do it from the side. I even tried to modify my 2 ton lift with a longer boom but it became unstable. In order to do it properly I'd have to also extend the legs by another 3 feet or more.

There may be some huge, designed-for-heavy truck-type hoists that could do the job from the front but they would be impractical.

Joe
Seeing is believing. Look at the pictures in my post #21 above. This old hoist was stable (had leg extensions) but decided to use a newer, smaller hoist for re-installation with the tranny installed and come in from the side.

[Joe L.]

Re: Puling the motor

Joe
Seeing is believing. Look at the pictures in my post #21 above. This old hoist was stable (had leg extensions) but decided to use a newer, smaller hoist for re-installation with the tranny installed and come in from the side.

Dennis------


Has this hoist been modified with a longer lifting arm and leg extensions? It looks pretty much like my hoist except for the leg extensions and, possibly, the boom extension. The total boom length on mine, with the secondary boom extended all the way to the limit (1/2 ton position) is 5 feet. That is not long enough and I have made an extended boom from VERY HD square tubing. However, without making up extended legs, it's unstable and will "tip" forward with significant weight on the boom. What is the total length of yours with the boom extended as pictured?

The legs of my hoist currently have no extensions and are a total of 56" long. How long in length are the primary legs of your hoist and how long are they in total length with the extensions?

[Joe L.]

Re: Puling the motor

I returned the cherry picker the other day, I will ask what the manufacturer was and maybe get a model number. But I did pull it from the from the front. I do have the urethane bumper removed but the frame work is there. The leveler was a Big Red TR2750. John recommended I attach the chains to the forward and rear heads on the outside, but the chain was not long enough so I used the inside holes, the right head with the 3/8" but the left head was 7/16".
If I am not going to reuse the push rods, valves and cam, should I worry about labeling them?
Are there rebuild kits for water pumps, if mine is original, I would just as well rebuild it while it is off the motor.

Todd----

I'd interested to know the make, maximum lifting weight, and model of the hoist and whether or not the boom and legs have been extended.

If you are not going to reuse the pushrods, valves and any other part, then there's no need to label them.

There are rebuild kits for waterpumps but rebuilding water pumps is best if you have some experience doing it. I acquired the experience by rebuilding a bunch of "practice" pumps and destroyed a few castings in the learning process [however, I don't use that experience to rebuild waterpumps for anyone besides Joe Lucia]. Bill Mock or Arthur Gould can rebuild your pump and, likely, they can sell you a kit if you dare to try it yourself. I think Corvette Central might also have kits available. You will almost never find these kits in auto parts stores.

[Dennis S.]

Re: Puling the motor

Dennis------


Has this hoist been modified with a longer lifting arm and leg extensions? It looks pretty much like my hoist except for the leg extensions and, possibly, the boom extension. The total boom length on mine, with the secondary boom extended all the way to the limit (1/2 ton position) is 5 feet. That is not long enough and I have made an extended boom from VERY HD square tubing. However, without making up extended legs, it's unstable and will "tip" forward with significant weight on the boom. What is the total length of yours with the boom extended as pictured?

The legs of my hoist currently have no extensions and are a total of 56" long. How long in length are the primary legs of your hoist and how long are they in total length with the extensions?

Joe
The hoist was borrowed so I don't know the history. Unfortunately I don't have access to it right now but will get you dimensions if I can.

[Todd L.]

Re: Puling the motor

Joe,
I will find the information you request, I do know the legs extended. I had the car lifted in the front with jack stands located on the frame behind the front wheels. I did come in at a slight angle, but it was slight.

Before I deploy this August I would like to have the bottom of the motor done. Is it ok to rebuild it then put the finished product in an engine bag until I can get the heads done?

Also, having never worked on a BB before, I noticed the intake and exhaust pushrods are different lengths, why is this and are Sb's the same?

Todd

[John H.]

Re: Puling the motor

Also, having never worked on a BB before, I noticed the intake and exhaust pushrods are different lengths, why is this and are Sb's the same?

Todd

Todd -

With the staggered valve locations relative to the centerline of the camshaft, the intake and exhaust pushrods have to be different lengths; on small-blocks, the valves are all in a straight line, and all are exactly the same distance from the centerline of the camshaft.

[Joe L.]

Re: Puling the motor

Joe,
Is it ok to rebuild it then put the finished product in an engine bag until I can get the heads done?


Todd

Todd------

Yes, it's fine. In fact, it had better be as I've had the "ZL-1" assembled for about 5 years and have yet to start it. After you get it assembled, prime it with an engine primer before starting.

[Todd L.]

Re: Puling the motor

All those interested, this is the cherry picker I used to pull the BB from the 74: http://www.harborfreight.com/automot...rane-7620.html

I was able to remove the motor and transmission together from the front of the car. I did come in at a slight angle and the front of the car was on jack stands.

[Todd L.]

Re: Puling the motor

The person who rebuilt the motor "500 miles ago" used studs within and without the entire motor including the timing cover, and oil pan. So, as I stated earlier, I will be replacing all external visible hardware with stock. In the Ecklers catalog, they sell kits and even tell you what head marks are on them. Are they accurate?
Here are a few pictures. of the drivers side head removed, the bent and broken pieces of push rod were found in the lifter valley when I removed the intake. The markings inside the head, are they correct for a 74 built in November of 73? Is my timing cover correct?

Thanks

[Joe L.]

Re: Puling the motor

The person who rebuilt the motor "500 miles ago" used studs within and without the entire motor including the timing cover, and oil pan. So, as I stated earlier, I will be replacing all external visible hardware with stock. In the Ecklers catalog, they sell kits and even tell you what head marks are on them. Are they accurate?
Here are a few pictures. of the drivers side head removed, the bent and broken pieces of push rod were found in the lifter valley when I removed the intake. The markings inside the head, are they correct for a 74 built in November of 73? Is my timing cover correct?

Thanks

Todd------

The date on this head looks just right to me for a late 1973-built '74.

The headmarkings on the bolts Eckler's sells are probably period=correct headmarkings that could have been used on the car and not necessarily the exact ones actually used.

The timimg cover looks to me to be AMONG THE CONFIGURATIONS used in the 73-74 period. Some used a timing tab that was bolted on.