Puling the motor

[Todd L.]

It has been a while since I posted about pulling the BB from my 74, I was waiting for my engine stand to arrive. It was a long slow process with a return involved. I do finally have a fully functioning engine stand capable of supporting the motor safely. My question is; when I separate the block from the bell housing can I use any bolts from the bell housing to mount the motor to the stand head or do I need to purchase separate bolts for this task? If so, what size will I need and will it be obvious where to mount them?

Thanks

Todd

[Joe L.]

Re: Puling the motor

It has been a while since I posted about pulling the BB from my 74, I was waiting for my engine stand to arrive. It was a long slow process with a return involved. I do finally have a fully functioning engine stand capable of supporting the motor safely. My question is; when I separate the block from the bell housing can I use any bolts from the bell housing to mount the motor to the stand head or do I need to purchase separate bolts for this task? If so, what size will I need and will it be obvious where to mount them?

Thanks

Todd

Todd------

It depends on the engine stand. For most, you will need longer bolts than the ones that normally mount the bellhousing to the block. That's because the bolts have to go through the mounting "legs" of the engine stand and fully engage the threads on the engine bellhousing flange. These tappings have about 3/4" thread depth.

So, for example, the engine stand "leg" pictured below has a 2-5/8" length. Adding the 3/4" tapping depth to that, these require a bolt of about 3-3/8" length. Also, I use a brass washer between the mounting leg and the block. I don't know if that's really necessary but it can't hurt anything, either.

I use grade 8 bolts but grade 5 would probably be ok. What's really important is that these bolts be torqued to about 35 lb ft BEFORE they support the weight of the engine. Make sure the bolts are not too long and that they don't bottom in the block tappings before that torque is reached.

[Ridge K.]

Re: Puling the motor

Todd, if I remember correctly, a complete 427 weighs about 665 pounds.

Probably need a stout bolt....

[Todd L.]

Re: Pulling the motor

Do you know the thread size. I would like to have the bolts on hand since I am borrowing the Cherry picker. Can I buy the bolts, and washers needed at Home Depot or Lowes, and do I need lock washers?
Once the motor is on the stand should I have it wrapped in a motor bag?

[John H.]

Re: Pulling the motor

Do you know the thread size. I would like to have the bolts on hand since I am borrowing the Cherry picker. Can I buy the bolts, and washers needed at Home Depot or Lowes, and do I need lock washers?
Once the motor is on the stand should I have it wrapped in a motor bag?

Todd -

Those bolts are 3/8"-16 (get Grade 8); also get an equal number of Grade 8 hardened flat washers to go under the bolt heads where they pass through the "legs" on your engine stand. You don't need lock washers.

[Todd L.]

Re: Puling the motor

Thanks guys, this is my first motor pull / restoration, and want to do things right.

Todd

[Joe L.]

Re: Puling the motor

Todd, if I remember correctly, a complete 427 weighs about 665 pounds.

Probably need a stout bolt....

Ridge-----


Most engine stands have four mounting legs. So, using the four legs with four 3/8-16 grade 8 bolts it will easily support a big block PROVIDING that the bolts are torqued to 35 lb/ft, or so, PRIOR to putting weigth on them.

I've had big blocks on an engine stand for a long while. Of course, the last one I had on there didn't weigh anything like 665 pounds.

[Dennis S.]

Re: Puling the motor

Todd
I guess I don't know why you are using an engine stand, unless you are working on the engine and need to rotate it. Did you ever consider an engine dolley? I bought one at Northern Tool for $44 and used it to hold my BB after removal, support it on the way to the rebuilder, to the engine dyno and back to the shop. Then we modified the rear attachment points of the dolley so that the bell housing and tranny could be bolted up. Brought it back to my garage as a complete assembly, making for an easy re-installation in the car.

[Todd L.]

Re: Puling the motor

Once the motor is taken down and rebuilt, I will put it on a dolly, as it awaits to be placed back in the car. I did buy the engine stand for working on the motor and being able to rotate it as necessary.

[John H.]

Re: Puling the motor

Todd -

Here's what we build the Viper V-10 on in production; kinda pricey for home use, but nice .

[Jack P.]

Re: Puling the motor

It has been a while since I posted about pulling the BB from my 74, I was waiting for my engine stand to arrive. It was a long slow process with a return involved. I do finally have a fully functioning engine stand capable of supporting the motor safely. My question is; when I separate the block from the bell housing can I use any bolts from the bell housing to mount the motor to the stand head or do I need to purchase separate bolts for this task? If so, what size will I need and will it be obvious where to mount them?

Thanks

Todd

Hi Todd, just a thought, the clutch and flywheel will still be attached to the block, you may have to remove those items before you try to put the engine on the stand. If they are still attached, the block will stand off from the engine stand and bend the bolts, ask me how I know.

Jack

[Todd L.]

Re: Puling the motor

Jack, tell me you didn't! I guess if you had a stand like the one John showed us it would not matter.

I am going to Naples, FL this week , when I get home I will be borrowing my neighbors cherry picker and getting busy the following weekend. I will post pictures.

Todd

[Jack P.]

Re: Puling the motor

Jack, tell me you didn't! I guess if you had a stand like the one John showed us it would not matter.

I am going to Naples, FL this week , when I get home I will be borrowing my neighbors cherry picker and getting busy the following weekend. I will post pictures.

Todd

I only paid $2,100 for mine in 1970. I guess in today's dollars that would be about ?

Jack

[Ridge K.]

Re: Puling the motor

Ridge-----


Most engine stands have four mounting legs. So, using the four legs with four 3/8-16 grade 8 bolts it will easily support a big block PROVIDING that the bolts are torqued to 35 lb/ft, or so, PRIOR to putting weigth on them.

I've had big blocks on an engine stand for a long while. Of course, the last one I had on there didn't weigh anything like 665 pounds.

Sounds like a lightweight ZL1, Joe....

[Joe L.]

Re: Puling the motor

Sounds like a lightweight ZL1, Joe....

Ridge-----

A big block with a weight less than a small block! What more could one ask for?