Cutting New Keys C-3

[Lynn H.]

Re: Cutting New Keys C-3

Thanks for the well wishes Ed. I may have overpaid for the setup I purchased from ebay, but it was all about getting the code book (see photos). I've seen the clippers come up fairly often, as well as a single small code book from time to time. This book has the key chart, the tool instruction booklet as well as 10 different key code sections. It was the first time I had run across this particular book. So far I've done pretty good. I've been able to make keys from keys, keys from lock cylinders, as well as making keys from the codes, I just need a little more practice. I have an '80 car that was a stolen recovery and I was able to make keys for it, just not quite perfect yet. I think I may need to do some alignment on the tool itself. I just purchased two more clippers with 1/2 dozen GM carriages and 3 GM wheels, so I am going to wait to get them before I do any disassembly with the clipper I have. I am not certain if they are any different from the one wheel I received with the tool pictured, as I have not received them yet. This is the model 14 clipper. If anyone needs any info from the book, I will try to help you out if you send a PM to me.
Lynn

[Jeffrey S.]

Re: Cutting New Keys C-3

Below is the Curtis "Code cutter" I have been using. It is a later model and is very easy to use. Just lift each bar to read the depth of cuts (key code) and squeeze the trigger in 6 positions. In my experience I have noted a couple of interesting things. On occasion, a key clipped by code will work one of the locks it is cut for i.e. the ignition but not one of the doors. I think if the tumblers are worn it will stick or not turn. The key numbers stamped on a key might have more than one font on the same key. An "8" might be very round and another 8 on the same key might be narrow. Also I have photos of original keys that have characters miss-aligned so that a number or letter is higher than the others. Identical key codes (depth of cuts) will have different key numbers (stamped in knockout) in different years. 1969 and '73 are both "E" and "H" rail codes and a '69 with key codes 534221, for example will have a key number "3J56" and the same code in '73 will have a number 42N6 and in '77 12P4 (these are random numbers that I just made up for explanation only).
Jeff