Improve oil drain back with Glyptol?

[Joe R.]

Here's a quote from the Idaho vette site, Big Block from Hell Part 2:

"To improve oil drain back, areas exposed to engine oil were painted with General Electric "Gyptal" armature paint."

http://www.idavette.net/hib/bbfh2.htm

Is this a worthwhile task? If so, which areas of the engine would get the Glyptol treatment? The lifter valley? Other spots?

Joe

[Clem Z.]

Re: Improve oil drain back with Glyptol?

Here's a quote from the Idaho vette site, Big Block from Hell Part 2:

"To improve oil drain back, areas exposed to engine oil were painted with General Electric "Gyptal" armature paint."

http://www.idavette.net/hib/bbfh2.htm

Is this a worthwhile task? If so, which areas of the engine would get the Glyptol treatment? The lifter valley? Other spots?

Joe

make sure the block is oil free or you will have gyptal in the oil pan. i would never do this unless the block was new or was boiled in a hot tank to remove all traces of oil.

[Joe L.]

Re: Improve oil drain back with Glyptol?

Here's a quote from the Idaho vette site, Big Block from Hell Part 2:

"To improve oil drain back, areas exposed to engine oil were painted with General Electric "Gyptal" armature paint."

http://www.idavette.net/hib/bbfh2.htm

Is this a worthwhile task? If so, which areas of the engine would get the Glyptol treatment? The lifter valley? Other spots?

Joe

Joe------


This technique has been used by racers for years. Rustoleum paint is sometimes also used (mainly because the Glyptal can be hard-to-find). The area normally coated is the lifter valley. However, I have also seen the area under the timing cover and, even, lower engine as-cast areas coated, too. As-cast areas under the valve cover are also sometimes coated for cast iron heads.

Is it worthwhile? I'd say, yes, but only marginally so for a street engine. I've never coated an engine I built, though. However, I have thought seriously about it. At a minimum I don't think it will do any harm.

Basically, though, this needs to be done after the block and/or heads have been THOROUGHLY cleaned in a hot tank, jet-wash, or oven. The cast iron has to be 100% free of oil or the coating will not properly adhere. If that occurs, it can cause other problems.

[Craig B.]

Re: Improve oil drain back with Glyptol?

Joe, I'm citing Chevrolet Power Catalog #6 on page 5-16, " can be painted on the inside with Rustoleum, Glyptal or other high quality paint." Further it neither recommends or desuades doing it and doesn't cite any performance or reliability gains for doing painting. However, I have seen many diesels painted onthe inside but I believe that eased the cleanup during rebuilding as they were much dirtier than gas engines back in the day.

[Wayne M.]

Re: Improve oil drain back with Glyptol?

Here's a '65 BB # 3855961 E_14_5, with paint under the timing cover and in the lifter valley. Don't know what product it is.

[Clem Z.]

Re: Improve oil drain back with Glyptol?

Here's a '65 BB # 3855961 E_14_5, with paint under the timing cover and in the lifter valley. Don't know what product it is.

the orange/red color looks like glyptal.

[Jack H.]

Re: Improve oil drain back with Glyptol?

I've considered using Gyptal on a few engines I've built, but never pulled the trigger. FYI, it is available from the Eastwood company if not elsewhere.

[Terry M.]

Re: Improve oil drain back with Glyptol?

I've considered using Gyptal on a few engines I've built, but never pulled the trigger. FYI, it is available from the Eastwood company if not elsewhere.

Any electric motor rebuilding shop will have it -- if any of those shops exist any more. GE was the manufacturer. The utility I work for had it laying around by the gallons, but it does have a lot of VOCs, so it may be history due to the desire of most of us to continue breathing.

[Joe C.]

Re: Improve oil drain back with Glyptol?

Not necessary. If you want faster drain back, then streamline all of the oil return troughs in the heads and the lifter valley. This will make a much larger difference than the Glyptal will.

I prefer not to do it, as the insignificant effect means much less to me than the peace of mind I have knowing that nothing has the potential of delaminating inside my engine.

If you don't have a high volume oil pump (which you shouldn't) then there is even LESS reason to do this.

[Michael H.]

Re: Improve oil drain back with Glyptol?

Not necessary. If you want faster drain back, then streamline all of the oil return troughs in the heads and the lifter valley. This will make a much larger difference than the Glyptal will.

I prefer not to do it, as the insignificant effect means much less to me than the peace of mind I have knowing that nothing has the potential of delaminating inside my engine.

If you don't have a high volume oil pump (which you shouldn't) then there is even LESS reason to do this.

I absolutely agree. I think it's a waste of time, ESPECIALLY for a street engine. It's not worth the effort and the chance that someof it will come loose and collect at the oil pick up. I've seen it happen.

Spent the time/energy somewhere that makes a difference.

[Duke W.]

Re: Improve oil drain back with Glyptol?

I also agree. I never seriously considered Gyptol when I rebuilt my engine, but I did bevel/round the oil drain hole entries in the heads and block valley.

Duke

[Tom P.]

Re: Improve oil drain back with Glyptol?

I rebuilt my first engine in 1962.
In the late 60s, I read a few articles in performance magazines such as HOTROD that painting the insides of an engine was good to do, primarily for 2 reasons. One, it sealed the pores of the cast iron and helped to keep the oil clean. Two, it improved oil drain back to the pan. Were these credible statements????? Who knows, but it certainly sounded credible. So, since the late 60s, I have painted EVERY engine that I have built (and that's a bunch!). I can't post pictures from work, but I do have a few pictures of internally painted engines. I have NEVER, EVER seen a problem several years down the road with internally painted engines.
I install an old camshaft and a set of lifters prior to painting, then paint away. When finished, I use a rag saturated with lacquer thinner to wipe out the cylinders, cylinder decks and main bores. I thoroughly paint the lifter valley, timing chain area, back of block, underside of heads and the area under the valve covers (I cover the valve springs/rocker arm studs) then wipe off the head surface. I leave the paint on the area where the valve cover gasket seals which seems to help seal the gasket. I also leave the paint on the timing gasket surface and the oil pan rail, but I do wipe off the paint from the bell housing flange at the rear of the block.
I use the same paint/color of engine paint (Chevy orange) both inside and outside.

[Michael B.]

Re: Improve oil drain back with Glyptol?

I did this on my first engine when I was 17. I had problems with it flaking off. I have built many track engines since then without internal paint. I do spend about an hour or so with sanding rolls, commonly used for head porting, to polish out the lifter valley and timing cover area. What you are looking for is a smooth surface to assist oil drain back and that can be accomplished with the metal itself.

I guess the reality is that once the surface is wet it is going to flow unpressurized oil the same. For track engines I do tap and plug the oil drain back holes in the valley near the cam and open up the lower part of the drain back holes in the front and rear. The theory there is to control the oil back to the pan and don't allow it to be thrown again by the turning crank.

[Michael D.]

Re: Improve oil drain back with Glyptol?

...Not necessary...

I agree.

[Joe C.]

Re: Improve oil drain back with Glyptol?

I did this on my first engine when I was 17. I had problems with it flaking off. I have built many track engines since then without internal paint. I do spend about an hour or so with sanding rolls, commonly used for head porting, to polish out the lifter valley and timing cover area. What you are looking for is a smooth surface to assist oil drain back and that can be accomplished with the metal itself.

I guess the reality is that once the surface is wet it is going to flow unpressurized oil the same. For track engines I do tap and plug the oil drain back holes in the valley near the cam and open up the lower part of the drain back holes in the front and rear. The theory there is to control the oil back to the pan and don't allow it to be thrown again by the turning crank.

Not a good idea to do this with flat tappets..........I assume you're talking about a roller cam.