67 Gauge cluster removal advice

[Ara G.]

I believe I have a bad amp gauge in my 67 Roadster. I sourced an NOS gauge and am going to replace the original. I only want to pull the cluster out enough to get access to the retainer plate holding the amp gauge in to replace it. I believe I will have to disconnect the tach cable and possibly the speedo cable. How hard is it to do this? Also, any other advice on removing the cluster to get the new gauge in? I haven't done this before and want to be extra careful as I am readying the car to get judged in Jan in Kissimmee. Any help is appreciated. Thanks ARA

[Wayne W.]

Re: 67 Gauge cluster removal advice

You don't really have to do much except remove a little clutter behind the cluster and pull the gauges. It makes it a little easier to remove the face screws and pry out a little, but you can get the gauges out without too much trouble. CAUTION. Take the battery cable off first.

[Patrick T.]

Re: 67 Gauge cluster removal advice

You can remove the amp gauge without pulling out the cluster, I've done it. You will need to pull the steering wheel off first, which is easy and of course, disconnect the battery. Pulling the gauge cluster is a real PITA. PT

[Ara G.]

Re: 67 Gauge cluster removal advice

Patrick, how do you remove the amp gauge without removing the cluster? How do you remove the upper bolt that retains the gauges? There are I believe 3 bolts that hold the gauge retainer to the backside of the cluster. I do not see how you can get your hand all the up to remove the bolt, let alone get it back in? Let me know, as I am MORE than willing to try it without removing the cluster. Thanks for your post. ARA

[Jack H.]

Re: 67 Gauge cluster removal advice

There's a 6'3" mechanic here in town that does this routinely. The trick lies in knowing where the cluster module attaching screws are, having a nice low profile ratchet and gaining the confidence/experience that it 'can be done, mon'...

[Patrick T.]

Re: 67 Gauge cluster removal advice

There's a 6'3" mechanic here in town that does this routinely. The trick lies in knowing where the cluster module attaching screws are, having a nice low profile ratchet and gaining the confidence/experience that it 'can be done, mon'...

It helps to be skinny like I am. I spent half of last winter removing and replacing the temperature gauge without removing the cluster. I just placed a cushion on the clutch and brake pedals to lay my head. Then have a drop light hung up inside the dash so you can see what you're doing. I used small sockets mounted on allen wrenches to undo the bolts. They can get in very tight spots. If you're too big for this, taking out the seat will make it easier. Anything beats taking out that cluster, I'll never do it again. PT

[Gerard F.]

Re: 67 Gauge cluster removal advice

Ara,

On a 67, in order to move the cluster out slightly, or to remove the cluster completely, you will need to loosen the 3 steering column mounting bolts below, and remove the steering column collar screws on the bottom side of the cluster.

In order to remove the collar from the cluster, you need to move the column down 1/4" or so, so that the stud on the top of the collar disengages from the hole in the cluster. Then you can slide the collar up the column and move the bottom of the cluster outward (that is after you remove the cluster mounting screws in the face of the cluster.

Depending how far you are going to move it, you may have to remove the oil gage line, tach and speedo cables.

In removing the steering wheel and sliding the collar up the column, you are halfway there to replacing your signal switch. How did you do with your brake light problem? Was it a fuse or the switch?

[Gerard F.]

Re: 67 Gauge cluster removal advice

Oh yea, taking out the driver seat is the ultimate for comfort. Just ask my chiropractor

[Ara G.]

Re: 67 Gauge cluster removal advice

Hey Jerry. I ordered a brake switch so that I have a new one when I tackle the brake lights issue. I am going to start tomorrow morning on at least seeing if the hazards work as I forgot to check to see if they worked. I am dreading this amp gauge, but I can not afford to lose 25 points on a non-operational gauge. I have side exhaust added to my car and am going into the judging already knowing I am going to lose 75 points right out of the gate. Am readying myself for a hopeful second flight because of the side pipes. I only have a few known issues that I have to rectify, and the amp gauge, horns and brake lights are it. I am sure I will discover more as I further prepare, but that's the fun of it. It will be my first time taking a car of my own to get judged, so regardless of what happens I know I will have the time of my life. We'll see. I will keep you posted on what the brake lights issue turns out to be. Thanks for the inquiry. Regards. ARA

[William C.]

Re: 67 Gauge cluster removal advice

are you sure the gauge is the problem? a couple of wires hooked to a 1.5 volt battery can be used to "flash" the gauge terminals as a test. A quick flash will give a significant deflection on a good gauge. Easier to check first, unless you have already determined for sure that the gauge is the problem.

[Ara G.]

Re: 67 Gauge cluster removal advice

Bill you MUST be reading my mind.....I think I have to take the time to make sure the gauge is defective before going through the nightmare of pulling the cluster. I am NO electrical wizard, that's for sure. How would you recommend I go about discerning if the gauge is operational prior to pulling the cluster? Any advice would be beyond appreciated. Thanks ARA

[William C.]

Re: 67 Gauge cluster removal advice

ok, take a 1.5 volt battery and attach two wires to it, one to each end, preferrably soldered to the battery, but any secure attachment method will work. put an alligator clip on one wire and leave the other end bare about 1/4 inch. Climb under the dash and pull the two way connector off the ammeter gauge in the IP. Connect the alligator clip to one terminal and with someone watching the needle. flick the other terminal with the second wire. Just a touch should give a full scale deflection or similar movement of the gauge. Do not hold the second wire to the second terminal any longer than required to have the assistant check for movement, just a "flick" should give you a major movement, or if the gauge is defective, none at all. There are many threads on the operation of the ammeter (it is actually a very sensitive voltmeter) in the archives, if you verify the gauge is not the problem.

[Gerard F.]

Re: 67 Gauge cluster removal advice

Hey Jerry. I ordered a brake switch so that I have a new one when I tackle the brake lights issue. I am going to start tomorrow morning on at least seeing if the hazards work as I forgot to check to see if they worked. I am dreading this amp gauge, but I can not afford to lose 25 points on a non-operational gauge. I have side exhaust added to my car and am going into the judging already knowing I am going to lose 75 points right out of the gate. Am readying myself for a hopeful second flight because of the side pipes. I only have a few known issues that I have to rectify, and the amp gauge, horns and brake lights are it. I am sure I will discover more as I further prepare, but that's the fun of it. It will be my first time taking a car of my own to get judged, so regardless of what happens I know I will have the time of my life. We'll see. I will keep you posted on what the brake lights issue turns out to be. Thanks for the inquiry. Regards. ARA

Ara,

Check your hazard lights first thing before you start tearing into the cluster. The hazard lights are on the same circuit as the cigar lighter.

If you have hazard flash in the front and none in the rear, and no rear brake lights. then it is something in the signal switch. On hazard flash, the brake lights and rear hazard lights share the same tang on the little cam in the signal switch, whereas the front signal lights are direct wired to the hazard switch within the signal switch.

If you have to change the signal switch, you might as well do it at the same time as the amp gage. On a 67, once you get the steering wheel off, and the cluster collar moved forward, changing the switch is a piece of cake.

If you don't have any brake lights, how are you going to drive to the event?

[Ara G.]

Re: 67 Gauge cluster removal advice

Jerry, thanks for the help. I do in fact have hazards working in the front and rear. So I am guessing it's the brake switch. How the heck do I get it out to replace? Looks impossible to access the wires. Do I remove the adjustment nut and slide it out towards the front of the car and then disconnect/recoonect the wiring? I looked from all sides and angles and don't have clear access to it from anywhere. Let me know if you have any suggestions. I am super happy it isn't something in the column/switch.
I also bench tested my horns and they aren't working, so there is another diagnosis off my checklist. Am sending them to Ron Goralski for a rebuild. If I get the horns and brake lights squared away, I only got the dreaded amp gauge left. I am going to take the advice of checking the gauge's operation with the 1.5 volt battery before tearing into the IP. THanks again for ALL the help. Regards. ARA

[George T.]

Re: 67 Gauge cluster removal advice

I had a problem with my '66 ammeter and found it to be a dirty connection at the firewall connection of the main harness. Cleaned it up and gauge worked fine.