C-3 Trailing Arm Removal

[David W.]

I am at the point in my frame-on restoration of my 1980 C-3 where I need to remove the trailing arms. I am going to send them off for a rebuild and will be using all new hardware. I have the spring, half-shafts and shocks removed.
Question: What is the best way to get the pivot bolt out? It is covered with undercoating and does not look fun to remove. I read that the easiest way would be to sawzall it out. Is this correct or is there a better way?
Any help would be very much appreciated.

[Michael G.]

Re: C-3 Trailing Arm Removal

David,
I don't know if there is a better way, but I used the sawsall on my 71'. Cut the nut using the washer as a shield from hacking up the frame. You may find that the bolt has frozen to the sleeve inside the control arm. This can be tricky as there is no direct shot at pounding out the bolt (I assume you still have the body on) You should be able to move the bolt outward enough to get a pry bar (or fork preferably) under the head of the bolt from the very small access point in the frame. Solvent, patience, and a few knuckles and you are out. If spindal and other parts are still attached, be ready to support this when released. Good luck, Mike

[John M.]

Re: C-3 Trailing Arm Removal

That just reinforces how lucky I was. I removed the entire rear suspension with a 3/8" Rachet and wrench.

Now the cross Member and differential, well that's a different story altogether.

[Patrick H.]

Re: C-3 Trailing Arm Removal

At least try removing the castle nut and removing the bolt in the "conventional" manner. You may get lucky and have one or both slide right out. Sometimes a drift or similar will help you a bit.

My right side on the 71 slid right out. Left side did not. We tried the Sawzall thing and broke several blades on one of mine. Finally brought over a torch and it was done in seconds. Next time if they don't come out in the usual way I'd torch them.

Patrick

[Harmon C.]

Re: C-3 Trailing Arm Removal

If the bolt is frozen with a round pry bar try to get it in the end of a shim and pull one shim out and the rest will be easy. You can then cut the bolt only with a sawsall or torch. If you cut the bolt on the side towards the center and grind the end off on the outside only one cut per side is needed. This works only on cars with slotted shims. Cutting the shim pack to get to the bolt is not easy.

[David W.]

Re: C-3 Trailing Arm Removal

Thanks to all that replied. The castle nuts do not look to bad as far as rust. They have a lot of undercoating on them which has helped preserve them. I plan on spraying them down with Undergone to loosen this coating then trying to get them loose. If this fails my plan was to take the sawsall and try to cut on either side of the trailing arms. The body is still on the car (not sure if I had made this clear) so it's going to be tight. If that does not work, I will be going to the torch. All is going to be replaced anyway but I wanted to save as much as possible.

Thanks, David

[Kenny C.]

Re: C-3 Trailing Arm Removal

I use a air hammer chisel, it shocks the bolt out and loosens the rust in the sleeve. typically comes out easy after very little hammering. And by the way if the stock shims are still in they don't come without the bolt being removed because they have a hole not a slot.
Regards
Kenny

[Michael W.]

Re: C-3 Trailing Arm Removal

[quote=Kenny Chandler (50158);431459 And by the way if the stock shims are still in they don't come without the bolt being removed because they have a hole not a slot.
[/quote]

The OP has an '80, the hole-only shims were long discontinued by then.

[Harmon C.]

Re: C-3 Trailing Arm Removal

The OP has an '80, the hole-only shims were long discontinued by then.

Amen
I know they were slotted in 73 so an 80 had to have slotted shims.

[Kenny C.]

Re: C-3 Trailing Arm Removal

Sorry I stand corrected I was relating to my 69 did not think about the change in year. However the impact chisel trick still works!

[David W.]

Re: C-3 Trailing Arm Removal

Thanks guys. I am headed to Sears tomorrow to get more tools. Wish me luck in getting these out. I have the body on and the car is on jack stands (rv stands so they are a little taller) so it's tight working on this.
As a follow up question...I want to have the trailing arms rebuilt. Any suggestions as to who does good work at a reasonable price?

Best Regards, David

[John H.]

Re: C-3 Trailing Arm Removal

As a follow up question...I want to have the trailing arms rebuilt. Any suggestions as to who does good work at a reasonable price?

Best Regards, David

Bair's, in Linesville, Pennsylvania.

[David W.]

Re: C-3 Trailing Arm Removal

Thanks John. Any idea on the cost?

[Steven B.]

Re: C-3 Trailing Arm Removal

Thanks guys. I am headed to Sears tomorrow to get more tools. Wish me luck in getting these out. I have the body on and the car is on jack stands (rv stands so they are a little taller) so it's tight working on this.
As a follow up question...I want to have the trailing arms rebuilt. Any suggestions as to who does good work at a reasonable price?

Best Regards, David

Bair's. Yogi does them right.

[Christopher K.]

Re: C-3 Trailing Arm Removal

Dave,

I just did mine a few months ago and had them rebuilt by Bairs. I used alot of PB Blaster for about a week, hit it every day. Then a torch, but be very careful, fuel and brake lines are right in that area!

After that, a breaker bar with a crow's foot worked like a charm. Got both sides off.

The best part is the shock mounts. Save yourself some time and buy the removal tool from any vendor ($15). More PB Blaster and a big sledge for that. Be careful of the spindle support.

Chris