Motor dyno test; assembly lube question

[Jerry G.]

My 327 road race motor is ready to Dyno. Because i'm usning stamped steel rockers and a wet sump i've been generous with use of assembly lube( moly disulfide) I'm a little concerned that on initial run in on the dyno that all this assembly lube may clog my oil filter. Anyone had any expirience with this issue? Is it a non problem? I'm getting a little paranoid. That first start up is a little tence for me. jerry

[Duke W.]

Re: Motor dyno test; assembly lube question

My recommendation for any new engine where assembly grease is used is to change the oil filter after the initial cam breakin, which is 20-30 minutes of operation at 2000-2500, no load. I believe the old GM Power Manuals offer the same advice. Top off the oil and continue with breakin or power runs.

I also recommend CI-4 oil with a bottle of GM EOS and this should stay in the engine for the entire breakin period - either dyno or a minimum of 500 miles of road use.

Duke

[Joe C.]

Re: Motor dyno test; assembly lube question

Hi Jerry,

Good luck with your cam break in. Be sure to prime the pump to the point that you see oil showing out of all, or most of the pushrods.
Keep us posted.
BTW: What did you end up using for an oil pump, pickup, pan, windage? Did you ever get in touch with Joe Stef?

Joe

[Jerry G.]

Re: Motor dyno test; assembly lube question

Thanks guys. i do have the Gm breakin lube. i also have the Redline engine oil break-in additive. i plan to use Amsoil sythetic Dominator Racing Oil 10w-30 for the oil. i went with a Canton road race pan because their trap door and windage/scapper system looked very good and they gave me a 1/2 inch more ground clearance for the same capacity. I went with the upgraded Melling pump since the evidence for breakage was so compelling on the standard melling high volume pump. Hopefully i'll dyno it this week. By the way, Duke was a great help in suggesting cam profiles for this motor. it's a very different profile than I used for all out very high RPM motor that I used in the past. i'm looking forward to see how it tests.

[Clem Z.]

Re: Motor dyno test; assembly lube question

My 327 road race motor is ready to Dyno. Because i'm usning stamped steel rockers and a wet sump i've been generous with use of assembly lube( moly disulfide) I'm a little concerned that on initial run in on the dyno that all this assembly lube may clog my oil filter. Anyone had any expirience with this issue? Is it a non problem? I'm getting a little paranoid. That first start up is a little tence for me. jerry

as long as the oil does not get cold. if you have the filter bypass plugged like you should in a race engine you will see a oil pressure drop if the filter is plugging up

[Jerry G.]

Re: Motor dyno test; assembly lube question

Clem, I use a TRACO fender mounted oil filter mount fed by a CV oil cooler adapter mounted on the block. . How do you block the bypass?

[Clem Z.]

Re: Motor dyno test; assembly lube question

Clem, I use a TRACO fender mounted oil filter mount fed by a CV oil cooler adapter mounted on the block. . How do you block the bypass?

if you removed the original aluminum GM oil filter adapter that bolts to the block to install your items you removed the filter bypass as it is located in that adapter

[Jerry G.]

Re: Motor dyno test; assembly lube question

The CV products oil cooler adaptor goes directly onto block at filter location. There is no GM aluminum adaptor on the motor. Thanks for thinking about those details. Jerry

[Jim L.]

Re: Motor dyno test; assembly lube question

Clem, I use a TRACO fender mounted oil filter mount fed by a CV oil cooler adapter mounted on the block. . How do you block the bypass?

Jerry, I use the same TRACO mount as you do. I assume that you also use the TRACO adapter on the engine in place of the normal oil fiilter mount, true?

If so, then your engine doesn't have a bypass.

Jim

Edit: Whooops..... just noticed you use a CV adapter, not a TRACO. Sorry.

[Steven B.]

Re: Motor dyno test; assembly lube question

Jerry, I currently have a 292 and a 355 assembled with GM assembly lube followed by a break in of 30 mins. while on the dyno, then oil and filter change, added GM EOS with fresh oil and pulled the dyno runs.

I have the Canton road race pan on my 355 and really like it! It is a great pan for a wet system and does well on the turns and twisties.

Steve

[Clem Z.]

Re: Motor dyno test; assembly lube question

Jerry, I currently have a 292 and a 355 assembled with GM assembly lube followed by a break in of 30 mins. while on the dyno, then oil and filter change, added GM EOS with fresh oil and pulled the dyno runs.

I have the Canton road race pan on my 355 and really like it! It is a great pan for a wet system and does well on the turns and twisties.

Steve

do not race with EOS in the oil as this could end up causing burned pistons if it finds it wat into the combustion chambers

[Jim L.]

Re: Motor dyno test; assembly lube question

do not race with EOS in the oil as this could end up causing burned pistons if it finds it wat into the combustion chambers

Why is that?

[Clem Z.]

Re: Motor dyno test; assembly lube question

Why is that?

EOS has materials in it that will cause hot spot on the piston tops if it get deposited there by getting past the rings

[Steven B.]

Re: Motor dyno test; assembly lube question

Clem, correct! I should have also said that after the dyno runs the oil was changed and no EOS after break in.

[Jim L.]

Re: Motor dyno test; assembly lube question

EOS has materials in it that will cause hot spot on the piston tops if it get deposited there by getting past the rings

Can you be more specific? What are the materials?

Thanks,
Jim