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67 SB Clutch, is this all I need

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  • Gerard F.
    Extremely Frequent Poster
    • June 30, 2004
    • 3805

    67 SB Clutch, is this all I need

    It's been 16 years, and I'm planning on taking my 67/327/300/3.08 back to the same shop for a clutch job again. Planning on a LUK Kit 04-021.

    But I'm wondering if the new clutch kit is all I need to do.

    Here's the symphoms:

    If I start out level, the clutch works fine when engaging in first. Switching gears to 2nd, 3rd, and 4th at speed is no problem. I have plenty of freeplay, the clutch engages solidly in all gears, and I have plenty of thread for adjustment on the clutch rod. It does seem to engage fairly high on the peddle, but doesn't slip.

    However, if I start out on an upgrade, I get this noise and vibration from the clutch area before it engages. Once it engages, I'm good to go, until I hit a traffic light on an upgrade.

    So shall I have my trusted mechanic look it other things besides the clutch?

    Actually I haven't put two many miles on the clutch in 16 years (about 10K) although I've been in a few parades which are very tough on a clutch. Here's one when the clutch was brand new:



    I ended this uphill parade with the clutch smoking and almost dumped my Supervisor Candidate out the back. She won her race, but never talked to me again. Lost a little political clout on that one.

    Comments welcome.
    Jerry Fuccillo
    1967 327/300 Convertible since 1968
  • Donald T.
    Expired
    • September 30, 2002
    • 1319

    #2
    Re: 67 SB Clutch, is this all I need

    Jerry,

    That would assume you had some political clout to begin with. Just kidding! Hope you and the vette have many more parades ahead!

    Comment

    • Joe C.
      Expired
      • August 31, 1999
      • 4598

      #3
      Re: 67 SB Clutch, is this all I need

      Originally posted by Gerard Fuccillo (42179)
      It's been 16 years, and I'm planning on taking my 67/327/300/3.08 back to the same shop for a clutch job again. Planning on a LUK Kit 04-021.

      But I'm wondering if the new clutch kit is all I need to do.

      Here's the symphoms:

      If I start out level, the clutch works fine when engaging in first. Switching gears to 2nd, 3rd, and 4th at speed is no problem. I have plenty of freeplay, the clutch engages solidly in all gears, and I have plenty of thread for adjustment on the clutch rod. It does seem to engage fairly high on the peddle, but doesn't slip.

      However, if I start out on an upgrade, I get this noise and vibration from the clutch area before it engages. Once it engages, I'm good to go, until I hit a traffic light on an upgrade.

      So shall I have my trusted mechanic look it other things besides the clutch?

      Actually I haven't put two many miles on the clutch in 16 years (about 10K) although I've been in a few parades which are very tough on a clutch. Here's one when the clutch was brand new:



      I ended this uphill parade with the clutch smoking and almost dumped my Supervisor Candidate out the back. She won her race, but never talked to me again. Lost a little political clout on that one.

      Comments welcome.
      Jerry,

      What kind of noise?
      Is it possible that there's oil splash happening from an old, dried out rear main seal? I would check to be sure that everything in there is dry.
      Also, check thickness of flywheel, and have it re-faced if necessary.

      Comment

      • Gerard F.
        Extremely Frequent Poster
        • June 30, 2004
        • 3805

        #4
        Re: 67 SB Clutch, is this all I need

        Joe,

        What kind of noise? It feels like a rubbing vibration, then it engages and I am good to go. Just started acting like this in the last couple of months.

        Jerry
        Jerry Fuccillo
        1967 327/300 Convertible since 1968

        Comment

        • Joe C.
          Expired
          • August 31, 1999
          • 4598

          #5
          Re: 67 SB Clutch, is this all I need

          Originally posted by Gerard Fuccillo (42179)
          Joe,

          What kind of noise? It feels like a rubbing vibration, then it engages and I am good to go. Just started acting like this in the last couple of months.

          Jerry
          Jerry,

          The only reason I bring up the possibility of oil contamination, is because your car is an original "old soldier". The rear main is hard as a rock,after 41 years....prime candidate for causing oil to sling on your clutch disc. If the clutch is "jerky" and/or engages erratically, then that further points to contamination.
          Of course, all of those powershifts @ 6 grand don't help much, either!

          Kits will contain pressure plate, clutch disc, TO bearing, pilot bushing, and, usually, a plastic "pilot" or aligning tool. I would think that most kits use a sintered bronze pilot bushing. I WOULD NOT use a needle bearing style pilot. Be sure to re-face the flywheel after checking for thickness.
          I'm glad you decided on the LUK, standard clamping force clutch, rather than the "gimmicky" Centerforce unit.

          Joe

          PS: By the looks of that "babe" parading around in your Corvette, I would have made every effort to get CLOSER to her, not farther away!
          Last edited by Joe C.; August 9, 2008, 03:35 PM.

          Comment

          • John H.
            Beyond Control Poster
            • December 1, 1997
            • 16513

            #6
            Re: 67 SB Clutch, is this all I need

            Jerry -

            Parade duty is tough on clutches, but it's even tougher on throwout bearings; the worst possible abuse you can give them. After you get the new clutch installed, stay clear of parades - they're for automatics.

            Comment

            • Jack H.
              Extremely Frequent Poster
              • April 1, 1990
              • 9906

              #7
              Re: 67 SB Clutch, is this all I need

              Amen, to that, John!

              I did it once in my '71 and never again! BUT, I did get the opportunity to see the 'overheat' feature of the '70-72 TCS/CEC systems go into action....

              The temp switch that mounts in the RH cylinder head has three positions: cold, normal, overheat. When the switch is in either the engine cold or overheat postion, it over-rides the upstream emissions control relays to FORCE vac advance to the distributor, increase engine RPM and pull more air through the radiator.

              I had the car in a July 4th parade and it was roughly 90F outside. I watched the temp gauge rise into the red zone and 'CLICK', the CEC solenoid engaged. Idle RPM's climbed modestly and the temp gauge needle actually began to fall...

              If fell out of the red zone and 'CLICK' the CEC solenoid disenaged. With further idling along the parade route, the process repeated three times and the engine never overheated enough to pop the rad cap and blow coolant!

              I can't say the same for other, older Corvettes that were in the same parade. I saw three straight axles pushed to the side of the parade route. Plus, one (a '59) picked exactly the right time to blow its rad cap...directly in front of the parade review stand! The owner was NOT a 'happy camper'...

              Comment

              • Gerard F.
                Extremely Frequent Poster
                • June 30, 2004
                • 3805

                #8
                Never again for a politician

                But for the grandson and a 60's theme, the clutch got stressed again:



                Not too shabby (from a distance), after all these years:


                I heard shouts that "they saved the best for last", as I was following 23 newer Corvette's in our local Corvette Club. We placed first in our category.

                I shouldn't have told him the story of the years past parade with the politician, and the smoke out at the end of the parade. He was feeling the heat off the console side the whole parade route. But it worked out OK, only got a little hot and spongy.

                I agree that parades (especially uphill ones) are excruciating pain for a clutch and the throwout bearing, especially with a 3:08 rear.

                Guess, I need a new clutch.

                But having fun in the meantime.
                Jerry Fuccillo
                1967 327/300 Convertible since 1968

                Comment

                • Paul D.
                  Very Frequent User
                  • September 30, 1996
                  • 491

                  #9
                  Re: 67 SB Clutch, is this all I need

                  Jerry,
                  One other part you may want to have on hand is a front bearing retainer for your transmission. The slightest amount of wear on that piece can cause erratic clutch engagement and premature throwout bearing failure which will produce the noises you describe. It's easy to replace while the tranny is out, but not quick to locate in the middle of a clutch swap. Many worn ones get put back in because (1) it doesn't look THAT bad and (2) it usually won't present a problem for a few weeks or maybe a few months on a seldom driven Corvette. Good luck!

                  P.S. Also look close at clutch fork and pivot ball. Again, not that expensive but not quickly obtained in the middle of a job.
                  Last edited by Paul D.; August 10, 2008, 06:23 AM. Reason: Add on

                  Comment

                  • Stuart F.
                    Expired
                    • August 31, 1996
                    • 4676

                    #10
                    Re: 67 SB Clutch, is this all I need

                    Looks like you got lots of good advice which I can't think of anything to add. My 63 still has the original clutch with 44.5k miles. I have a 3.36 rear gear with the close ratio, so I'm always conscious of "lugging" situations. I only do short parades at our local cruise in at Old Town (Kissimmee, FL), and I am always concerned because you have to be so careful to keep the spacing closed up so no one tries to cross the street which is very narrow. Therefore, you can't watch your tach and with all the music and crowd noise, you loose the engine sound (RPM) factor, so it is hard to feather the clutch. Lately, I join in the "Q" and then bail at the first cross intersection. I hate to disappoint the crowd as they really appreciate the old Vettes, but when there is 3 or 4 hundred cars, I think they will get over it, Ha!

                    Stu Fox

                    Comment

                    • Gerard F.
                      Extremely Frequent Poster
                      • June 30, 2004
                      • 3805

                      #11
                      Front Bearing Retainer- Size, Part No., Source for 67 M20

                      Thanks Paul,

                      Anyone have a source for the Front Bearing Retainer, 67 SB 300Hp, 4 Speed. I think I ought to have one handy.
                      Jerry Fuccillo
                      1967 327/300 Convertible since 1968

                      Comment

                      • Michael M.
                        Very Frequent User
                        • February 15, 2007
                        • 455

                        #12
                        Re: 67 SB Clutch, is this all I need

                        Jerry, the best person I can think of for your bearing retainer is Paul Cangialosi. He is very knowledgable about Muncies. He sells Munice parts, rebuild kits and a video to help as well. He has a website which is 5speeds.com. You can also call him (I assume his number is on his website). I bought a rebuild kit from him and his video, and when I ran into some questions in the middle of my rebuild he was great to deal with and helped me out over the telephone.

                        Comment

                        • Richard G.
                          Extremely Frequent Poster
                          • July 31, 1984
                          • 1715

                          #13
                          Re: 67 SB Clutch, is this all I need

                          The Bearing retainer on the transmission is a common replacement item. My bet is a local auto parts dealer could order one. I am sure a local transmission shop could get one in a day or so. Should be all over the internet if you prefer that method of part procurement.
                          Rick

                          Comment

                          • Duke W.
                            Beyond Control Poster
                            • January 1, 1993
                            • 15667

                            #14
                            Re: 67 SB Clutch, is this all I need

                            It sounds like you have a mild case of clutch "chatter". Given the miles, the clutch is probably not worn out, but probably has some slight flywheel or pressure plate warpage.

                            If you can live with it - that's okay, but if you do install a new one, take the flywheel to a machine shop, have them check it for runout, and if any is present, take a minimum cut to eliminate it.

                            Duke

                            Comment

                            • Mike M.
                              Director Region V
                              • August 31, 1994
                              • 1463

                              #15
                              Re: 67 SB Clutch, is this all I need

                              Jerry, how did you make out?
                              Just for insurance, you might ask the parade planning committee to consider reversing the parade route. (Downhill?)
                              HaND

                              Comment

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