427 heat soak solenoid recommend

[Clem Z.]

Re: 427 heat soak solenoid recommend

clem-----


The battery behind the seat was first used for the 1968 model year and continued through the 1982 model year.

Cars experiencing the "hot-restart" problem include both C2 and C3, though. It might be a bit more prevalent with C3 but that may be because there are more of them out there.

I have carefully cleaned my negative battery cable-to-frame interface several times.

i had both 65 and a 66 new BB corvettes and never saw the hot start problem of course i never kept them more than a year.

[Glenn B.]

Re: 427 heat soak solenoid recommend

Joe

Work and family are currently conspiring against me spending time with my carvette. The hot start investigation project is nearing the top of my "to do" list and I will report back my findings re the bulkhead connector

[Glenn B.]

Re: 427 heat soak solenoid recommend

My no-crank issue is getting progressively worse to the point that the car is now just not reliable enough to drive.

I inspected my bulkhead connectors this weekend and did not find obvious visible corrosion.

However, one interesting observation is that when I turn the key to start and get complete silence, if I open the door, I can see that the courtesy light (footwell) goes out when I try to start the car. This tells me that the connection between the IGN switch through to the solenoid is good, and the the problem is more likely to be the feed to the ign switch - most likely a weak main power feed.

My next step is to add a 12Ga wire from the horn relay through the firewall to the 40A breaker above the left footwell to see if mine is cured.

[Clem Z.]

Re: 427 heat soak solenoid recommend

i would try a clamp on amp meter to see what the current draw is on the battery cable when you try and start the engine. i believe it should be around 400 amps if more than that i would be suspect of the starter motor or as i have posted before the pistons are expanding in the bores enought to "tighten" up the engine. if the engine was rebuilt and the piston to wall clearance is not correct this can happen. use the amp meter to see what the current "draw" is when the engine is cold and see if it is more when hot.

[Terry M.]

Re: 427 heat soak solenoid recommend

So back to the question, What to do. My cables are in good condition, critically cleaned lugs, inspected and cleaned grounds, etc, using 1050 CCA Optima. (YES fully charged) When I replace the solenoid, the problem goes away for a long time. I have read that inferior spring tension, along with corrosion, loose parts in the solenoid will result in Heat Soak problems. Is there a Heavy Duyty Solenoid that I should be using or will that NAPA replacement work just fine, (which it has not) CONFUSED!!!

Neil,
I know you say the main cables are in good condition, but any voltage drop along there -- and one can detect that only by measuring with a DVM (Digital Volt Meter) across ALL the connections, and EVERY piece of cable while they are under load. The cables and connections can appear to be in good condition, but be corroded under the insulation and fail under heat and load. The voltage drop check is not an easy one to make -- takes two people and one is working around hot surfaces -- but one can not pronounce the cables and connections good without doing that check.

I'm thinking go "back to basics" when all else fails. In the past when I have been backed into a corner that has worked for me.

[Glenn B.]

Re: 427 heat soak solenoid recommend

Clem

Since I do not hear the solenoid engage - I am assuming I am not even getting to the point of engaging the starter - is my ligic incorrect?

[Joe L.]

Re: 427 heat soak solenoid recommend

Clem

Since I do not hear the solenoid engage - I am assuming I am not even getting to the point of engaging the starter - is my ligic incorrect?

Glenn-----


Yes, that's correct.

One thing you might try. Try jumping from the battery lug on the solenoid to the "S" terminal. If the solenoid engages and the starter operates, that means the problem HAS TO BE in the circuit with the "purple wire". Be VERY careful when you do this jumping. Make sure the car is in neutral and beware of sparking.

[Clem Z.]

Re: 427 heat soak solenoid recommend

Clem

Since I do not hear the solenoid engage - I am assuming I am not even getting to the point of engaging the starter - is my ligic incorrect?

if when you turn the key to spin the engine over and your interior lights go dim something is drawing current

[Glenn B.]

Re: 427 heat soak solenoid recommend

Yes, I agree Clem. When I engage the starter - the courtesy lights go out, which tells me that the interior voltage has dropped significantly (I'll dig out my DVM this weekend). It seems to me that there must be a weak point (high resistance) in my wiring system which is limiting the current flow.

[Richard S.]

Re: 427 heat soak solenoid recommend

I'm going to offer something here that might provide some information on solving the problem. Hope this helps. I've experienced this problem with my 66 big block several times over the last 15 years of long distance summer driving. The car is stored for many months over the winter. Each time the "hot no restart" condition occurred my battery cables had corrosion under the connections at the battery terminals. Once I cleaned the cables and terminal connections....no more "hot no restart" problem. Hope this helps.

[Clem Z.]

Re: 427 heat soak solenoid recommend

Yes, I agree Clem. When I engage the starter - the courtesy lights go out, which tells me that the interior voltage has dropped significantly (I'll dig out my DVM this weekend). It seems to me that there must be a weak point (high resistance) in my wiring system which is limiting the current flow.

my point was that the solenoid and or the starter has to be drawing current when this happens.

[Stanley H.]

Re: 427 heat soak solenoid recommend

Neil-----

.

Yes, I know that such an installation is not "correct" or "original".

Remote solenoid kits are available in the aftermarket. These include everything you need, including instructions. Want to put a kit together yourself? Use REMOTE solenoid GM #1114532. However, it comes with no instructions for the remote solenoid installation.

I agree ...remote solioid >> have owned my 66 BB for 14 years was continually plaged with the same problem......... I installed a ford (eeek) solinoid in a remote location 5 years ago >> problem gone ....think I got kit from Summit for 25 bucks or so..... I also the only 66 that runs the 1/4 mile "oldies day" ay NE Dragway 13.06 @105 MPH no headders .............. going back into my cave.................

[Jim T.]

Re: 427 heat soak solenoid recommend

I experienced the hot no start on my 327/350. My car always cranked great when it was not hot. The "hot no start" did not occur when the car was new, started about 1976. When it occured, waiting about 10-15 minutes the car would start. When I needed a new battery I installed a new one on 10-6-93. I decided that I would try the biggest most powerful Delco battery I could buy. I bought the Delco Tough One Plus 1000. Never had a starting problem when trying to restart when the car engine was hot after driving with this battery. This battery was was bigger also in actual size, so to install it I had to remove the trim and doors. I have never had a battery last as long as this one, had to replace it 3/15/02. Bought a AC Delco 75P 7YR Professional Platinum battery to replace the Tough One which has always started my 68 as well and it is still in use.

[Glenn B.]

Re: 427 heat soak solenoid recommend - FIXED!

OK, I ran a 12 guage wire parallel to the factory harness - from the horn relay to the 40A breaker. Unfortunately this did nothing, still having crank issues even when cold.

I have one of those battery disconnects installed. I could feel that the negative cable connection to the disconnect was warm - bad sign, you only generate heat when you have resistance. I took off the disconnect, there was no significant corrosion visible. I took emery cloth to both ends of the disconnect, the battery (-ve) post and the -ve cable. Starts like a charm, over and over. Went for a long run (it was hot here today) let it sit - started like a champ.

The disconnects are made of dissimilar metal to the battery post and -ve cable connection. I suspect that there is some form of oxide forming that is not that visibly apparent - but adds significant resistance.

Check your battery disconnects - give them a good cleaning - even if there is no visible corrosion!

[Joe L.]

Re: 427 heat soak solenoid recommend - FIXED!

OK, I ran a 12 guage wire parallel to the factory harness - from the horn relay to the 40A breaker. Unfortunately this did nothing, still having crank issues even when cold.

I have one of those battery disconnects installed. I could feel that the negative cable connection to the disconnect was warm - bad sign, you only generate heat when you have resistance. I took off the disconnect, there was no significant corrosion visible. I took emery cloth to both ends of the disconnect, the battery (-ve) post and the -ve cable. Starts like a charm, over and over. Went for a long run (it was hot here today) let it sit - started like a champ.

The disconnects are made of dissimilar metal to the battery post and -ve cable connection. I suspect that there is some form of oxide forming that is not that visibly apparent - but adds significant resistance.

Check your battery disconnects - give them a good cleaning - even if there is no visible corrosion!

Glenn-----


This is a perfect example in which lack of information has us "running around in circles". You didn't previously mention you had a battery disconnect switch in the system. These are ALWAYS the Number 1 suspect for many starting problems. The only type I would ever even consider using is the "blade" type. Even then, I'd be very reluctant to add one of these to the system. Better that you just disconnect a battery terminal during long periods of storage or use a Battery Minder.