Engine/Transmission/Rear Differential Noise Detector Finder Tool - NCRS Discussion Boards

Engine/Transmission/Rear Differential Noise Detector Finder Tool

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  • Gerald C.
    Extremely Frequent Poster
    • June 30, 1987
    • 1304

    Engine/Transmission/Rear Differential Noise Detector Finder Tool

    I'm trying to determine where a "humming" sound is coming from in the drivetrain of my 63. The humming occurs upon acceleration and stops upon deceleration. Before I start dismantling either the 4 speed tranny or the 3:36 non-posi-rear end, I'm trying to do as much research as possible. One recommendation I received is to purchase one of these tools and hook it up to both the tranny and rear differential and drive the car so the drivetrain under "load". Has anyone used this noise finder tool on their c2's with any precision and or luck or have any other suggestions? If you have purchased one, can you share the tool information that you used?

    Thanks
  • Mark E.
    Extremely Frequent Poster
    • April 1, 1993
    • 4603

    #2
    If no response here ask a car dealer or mechanic. I haven't used one but our local Jag Land Rover dealer has. I believe they strap to the chassis and bluetooth connect to an app on a phone.
    Mark Edmondson
    Dallas, Texas
    Texas Chapter

    1970 Coupe, Donnybrooke Green, Light Saddle LS5 M20 A31 C60 G81 N37 N40 UA6 U79
    1993 Coupe, 40th Anniversary, 6-speed, PEG 1, FX3, CD, Bronze Top

    Comment

    • David M.
      Very Frequent User
      • September 30, 2004
      • 529

      #3
      Is this a fully restored car, survivor car, low mile car? How many miles on the drive train?
      Do you have any drive-train service history? Has the trans, diff, u-joints, trailing arms ever been serviced?

      Take a passenger for a ride-along as they will be able to poke their head behind the seats to give you some indication of the sounds origin.

      Noise on acceleration is generally u-joint, engine, or trans mount.
      Look at the main drive shaft for witness marks indicating contact with something.​

      Split the dictionary:
      Start simple. As you go deeper the following parts will need to be removed anyway...
      Pull the main driveshaft and run the engine gently through the gears. Low RPM nothing above 1500.
      Sound gone? Its likely the drive shaft or the rear suspension. If its not gone its likely the trans or clutch.

      Dont rule out a bad U-Joint. Manipulate the main & half shaft U-joints as you remove them, they should be smooth.
      You can visually see a sloppy failing cup and cross shaft. The rust dust is a dead giveaway.
      You do not need to remove the shafts to see these defects.

      With the driveshaft out check the pinion radial and axial slop.

      Next pull the half shafts, check u joints then check for bearing slop at the diff flanges then at the trailing arm flanges. There will be some lash but shouldn't be excessive.

      Spin the components by hand to feel for bearing brinelling.

      A fancy tool isn't any better than good old fashion spatial awareness... touch-see-hear-smell.

      Trailing arm bearings notoriously fail at 40-60K miles. Especially if they've been in situ for the last 62 years and never been greased...if 63s can be greased? But they will make noise all the time so you may rule this out.

      My money, sight unseen, is on u-joints or mounts.

      Comment

      • Gerald C.
        Extremely Frequent Poster
        • June 30, 1987
        • 1304

        #4
        Originally posted by David Morland (42626)
        Is this a fully restored car, survivor car, low mile car? How many miles on the drive train?
        Do you have any drive-train service history? Has the trans, diff, u-joints, trailing arms ever been serviced?

        Take a passenger for a ride-along as they will be able to poke their head behind the seats to give you some indication of the sounds origin.

        Noise on acceleration is generally u-joint, engine, or trans mount.
        Look at the main drive shaft for witness marks indicating contact with something.

        Split the dictionary:
        Start simple. As you go deeper the following parts will need to be removed anyway...
        Pull the main driveshaft and run the engine gently through the gears. Low RPM nothing above 1500.
        Sound gone? Its likely the drive shaft or the rear suspension. If its not gone its likely the trans or clutch.

        Dont rule out a bad U-Joint. Manipulate the main & half shaft U-joints as you remove them, they should be smooth.
        You can visually see a sloppy failing cup and cross shaft. The rust dust is a dead giveaway.
        You do not need to remove the shafts to see these defects.

        With the driveshaft out check the pinion radial and axial slop.

        Next pull the half shafts, check u joints then check for bearing slop at the diff flanges then at the trailing arm flanges. There will be some lash but shouldn't be excessive.

        Spin the components by hand to feel for bearing brinelling.

        A fancy tool isn't any better than good old fashion spatial awareness... touch-see-hear-smell.

        Trailing arm bearings notoriously fail at 40-60K miles. Especially if they've been in situ for the last 62 years and never been greased...if 63s can be greased? But they will make noise all the time so you may rule this out.

        My money, sight unseen, is on u-joints or mounts.
        David,

        It's a fully restored car with new U-Joints and a rebuilt tranny. There is probably less than a 1,000 on the car. Even the tranny mount is brand new. The rear differential is an open 3:36 and I had Gary Ramadei look at the internals and we didn't see any excessive wear on the original ring and pinion gears. It's a 300 hp, 4 speed as mentioned. I like your suggestions and I'll try each of them as I go through this research process. The Trailing arms were also rebuilt. The odometer has just over 70,000 miles on it and the engine runs fine.

        Thanks for the feedback.

        Comment

        • Patrick H.
          Beyond Control Poster
          • December 1, 1989
          • 11678

          #5
          Originally posted by Gerald Coia (11656)
          I'm trying to determine where a "humming" sound is coming from in the drivetrain of my 63. The humming occurs upon acceleration and stops upon deceleration.

          Thanks
          Does it occur when revving the engine sitting in one spot? Have you tried that?

          We were fighting a vibration in a 1967 327, and it turned out to be the cogged belts. You would not believe the difference in smoothness by switching to smooth belts.

          Just an example.
          Vice-Chairman (West), Michigan Chapter NCRS
          71 "deer modified" coupe
          72 5-Star Bowtie / Duntov coupe. https://www.flickr.com/photos/124695...57649252735124
          2008 coupe
          Available stickers: Engine suffix code, exhaust tips & mufflers, shocks, AIR diverter valve broadcast code.

          Comment

          • Gerald C.
            Extremely Frequent Poster
            • June 30, 1987
            • 1304

            #6
            Originally posted by Patrick Hulst (16386)

            Does it occur when revving the engine sitting in one spot? Have you tried that?

            We were fighting a vibration in a 1967 327, and it turned out to be the cogged belts. You would not believe the difference in smoothness by switching to smooth belts.

            Just an example.
            No noise at idle sitting in one spot.

            Thanks

            Comment

            • Patrick H.
              Beyond Control Poster
              • December 1, 1989
              • 11678

              #7
              Originally posted by Gerald Coia (11656)

              No noise at idle sitting in one spot.

              Thanks
              Idle is different than having the engine slowly and/or quickly go to 4000 rpm and see if there is a noise.
              You need to reproduce the acceleration without having the car move.
              Vice-Chairman (West), Michigan Chapter NCRS
              71 "deer modified" coupe
              72 5-Star Bowtie / Duntov coupe. https://www.flickr.com/photos/124695...57649252735124
              2008 coupe
              Available stickers: Engine suffix code, exhaust tips & mufflers, shocks, AIR diverter valve broadcast code.

              Comment

              • Gerald C.
                Extremely Frequent Poster
                • June 30, 1987
                • 1304

                #8
                Originally posted by Patrick Hulst (16386)

                Idle is different than having the engine slowly and/or quickly go to 4000 rpm and see if there is a noise.
                You need to reproduce the acceleration without having the car move.
                I'll try that. Just another step in the research process.
                Thanks

                Comment

                • David M.
                  Very Frequent User
                  • September 30, 2004
                  • 529

                  #9
                  Remember new means almost nothing today.

                  I'd start with another rider to poke their head behind the seats to give you some indication of the sounds origin.

                  Also consider a full restoration means the chances something was overlooked as far as torqued down is plausible.

                  Get it up on a lift and explore.
                  Could be something simple...loose trans mount causing the case to move enough to rub and cause noises?

                  Comment

                  • Gerald C.
                    Extremely Frequent Poster
                    • June 30, 1987
                    • 1304

                    #10
                    Originally posted by David Morland (42626)
                    Remember new means almost nothing today.

                    I'd start with another rider to poke their head behind the seats to give you some indication of the sounds origin.

                    Also consider a full restoration means the chances something was overlooked as far as torqued down is plausible.

                    Get it up on a lift and explore.
                    Could be something simple...loose trans mount causing the case to move enough to rub and cause noises?
                    Thanks David. The car is up on a lift for the winter as I have another project going on. Since it's up there I intend to re-torque all the bolts, etc. underneath.

                    Comment

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