Need help on 66 C2 D/S Door Gap - NCRS Discussion Boards

Need help on 66 C2 D/S Door Gap

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  • Larry E.
    Extremely Frequent Poster
    • December 1, 1989
    • 1676

    Need help on 66 C2 D/S Door Gap

    Getting my 66 Convertible ready for judging. My D/S Door Gap(Rear of Door) is a little bit to
    large. Upon researching this board the common fix is to loosen the Striker (3 Phillips Screws)
    then position the Strike/Plate towards the middle of the car. Then tighten the Screws down to
    hold the position. This does indeed work as the gap looks a lot better BUT it does not take long
    for it to work back out(towards the outside of car) so a larger gap does reappear. It seems I can
    not tighten those Phillips Screws a little more to hold better. But as everybody knows there is
    not enough "grip" to tighten the Phillips head to do this. This coupled with new weatherstrip installed
    that will push the door out a little. I hope I explained this well enough. Anybody with some idea's
    or will I just have to live with it?? Comments please>Larry
    Larry

    LT1 in a 1LE -- One of 134
  • Joseph S.
    National Judging Chairman
    • March 1, 1985
    • 866

    #2
    Re: Need help on 66 C2 D/S Door Gap

    Larry, Does your strike plate have the 2 Gripper attachments. They look like mini cheese graters. These should grab into the fiberglass and prevent the striker from moving.

    Comment

    • Chris T.
      Infrequent User
      • August 31, 1986
      • 28

      #3
      Re: Need help on 66 C2 D/S Door Gap

      Strike Plate Grippers
      Strike Plate Gripper.jpg

      Comment

      • Larry E.
        Extremely Frequent Poster
        • December 1, 1989
        • 1676

        #4
        Re: Need help on 66 C2 D/S Door Gap

        Originally posted by Joseph Scafidi (8321)
        Larry, Does your strike plate have the 2 Gripper attachments. They look like mini cheese graters. These should grab into the fiberglass and prevent the striker from moving.
        Joseph: Thanks for the reply. Yes they appear to be although the smaller one is hard to see but looks to be there. I have never had
        the striker completely off. Is it possible through the years that the strike plate has "bitten off" that piece of
        fiberglass that it is suppose to grab?? What would be my next step eg.: loosen the Phillip head screws and
        try to push those strike plates in with a small screwdriver? Or?? Not sure if I want to take off the screws
        completely. Need Advice and Thanks>Larry
        Larry

        LT1 in a 1LE -- One of 134

        Comment

        • Larry E.
          Extremely Frequent Poster
          • December 1, 1989
          • 1676

          #5
          Re: Need help on 66 C2 D/S Door Gap

          Update On The Above: Upon looking a little closer I discovered I DID NOT HAVE THAT SMALLER GRIPPER(Top)
          installed on my striker plate. Since time is of the essence for judging I inserted "two sided sandpaper" between
          the striker plate and the fiberglass. Will see if it holds to keep the gap correct. NOW>Here is my questions>
          When I get the proper gripper I will have to take the top Phillip Head screw completely off. Is this risky? I do not
          like taking off any fasteners with out knowing how the connecting nut is held on. I would have no idea even how to get
          to the nut IF I HAD TO. COMMENTS PLEASE! AND THANKS.LARRY
          Larry

          LT1 in a 1LE -- One of 134

          Comment

          • Mark M.
            Very Frequent User
            • October 21, 2008
            • 340

            #6
            Re: Need help on 66 C2 D/S Door Gap

            Those screws go into a plate which is caged in ( can't fall out) and has the ability to move around for adjustment when all three screws are loose. Rear door gap, especially on a roadster may need rear shim change and the car should be sitting on it's tires. Hope this helps , and all goes well.

            Comment

            • Larry E.
              Extremely Frequent Poster
              • December 1, 1989
              • 1676

              #7
              Re: Need help on 66 C2 D/S Door Gap

              Originally posted by Mark Mead (49600)
              Those screws go into a plate which is caged in ( can't fall out) and has the ability to move around for adjustment when all three screws are loose. Rear door gap, especially on a roadster may need rear shim change and the car should be sitting on it's tires. Hope this helps , and all goes well.
              Mark: Thanks much for this info. Will install the proper "grippers" when I get them. Larry
              Larry

              LT1 in a 1LE -- One of 134

              Comment

              • Leif A.
                Extremely Frequent Poster
                • August 31, 1997
                • 3626

                #8
                Re: Need help on 66 C2 D/S Door Gap

                Originally posted by Larry Evoskis (16324)
                Mark: Thanks much for this info. Will install the proper "grippers" when I get them. Larry
                Some original grippers here...see post #13
                https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...-for-sale.html
                Leif
                '67 Coupe L79, M21, C60, N14, N40, J50, A31, U69, A01, QB1
                Top Flight 2017 Lone Star Regional

                Comment

                • Chris T.
                  Infrequent User
                  • August 31, 1986
                  • 28

                  #9
                  Re: Need help on 66 C2 D/S Door Gap

                  Larry, this is what the caged plate from the backside looks like. The solid metal plate is able to adjust within the caged outer part. IMG_2097.jpg

                  Comment

                  • Russ S.
                    Extremely Frequent Poster
                    • April 30, 1982
                    • 2162

                    #10
                    Re: Need help on 66 C2 D/S Door Gap

                    If you have a gap problem from top vs bottom, it sounds to me like you need to re-shim the body.(I am assuming you have a rust free frame)

                    Comment

                    • Larry E.
                      Extremely Frequent Poster
                      • December 1, 1989
                      • 1676

                      #11
                      Re: Need help on 66 C2 D/S Door Gap

                      Originally posted by Russ Steinhaus (5540)
                      If you have a gap problem from top vs bottom, it sounds to me like you need to re-shim the body.(I am assuming you have a rust free frame)
                      Russ: The gap IS NOT Top To Bottom. (Which is good on my car) It is from Top of the side of door edge
                      compared to the Start of the rear portion of the car. (I hope this makes sense) This is why when I move the
                      striker to the center of the car it pulls the door in and this causes the gap to be where it is suppose to be. Larry
                      Larry

                      LT1 in a 1LE -- One of 134

                      Comment

                      • Russ S.
                        Extremely Frequent Poster
                        • April 30, 1982
                        • 2162

                        #12
                        Re: Need help on 66 C2 D/S Door Gap

                        OK Larry, How is the fit at the front of the door to the fender and the bottom of the door to fender? Could it be you could remove a hinge shim at the top or add one at the bottom? This could relieve pressure at the top rear of your door.

                        Comment

                        • Larry E.
                          Extremely Frequent Poster
                          • December 1, 1989
                          • 1676

                          #13
                          Re: Need help on 66 C2 D/S Door Gap

                          Originally posted by Russ Steinhaus (5540)
                          OK Larry, How is the fit at the front of the door to the fender and the bottom of the door to fender? Could it be you could remove a hinge shim at the top or add one at the bottom? This could relieve pressure at the top rear of your door.
                          Russ: Thanks for the response and help. The gaps you talk about above ARE OK ON MY CAR. The only gap
                          that is off is the "Depth Gap" of rear of door edge and the start of the rear body of car. It was not flush. BTW
                          Since I inserted the "two sided sandpaper" it seem to be holding for now. Will get the proper grippers from
                          Corvette Central soon. Thanks again>Larry
                          Larry

                          LT1 in a 1LE -- One of 134

                          Comment

                          • David D.
                            Frequent User
                            • December 1, 1989
                            • 74

                            #14
                            Re: Need help on 66 C2 D/S Door Gap

                            Originally posted by Larry Evoskis (16324)
                            Russ: Thanks for the response and help. The gaps you talk about above ARE OK ON MY CAR. The only gap
                            that is off is the "Depth Gap" of rear of door edge and the start of the rear body of car. It was not flush. BTW
                            Since I inserted the "two sided sandpaper" it seem to be holding for now. Will get the proper grippers from
                            Corvette Central soon. Thanks again>Larry
                            Just an FYI - the typical automotive term used for this condition is "flushness."

                            Comment

                            • Leif A.
                              Extremely Frequent Poster
                              • August 31, 1997
                              • 3626

                              #15
                              Re: Need help on 66 C2 D/S Door Gap

                              Originally posted by Larry Evoskis (16324)
                              Russ: Thanks for the response and help. The gaps you talk about above ARE OK ON MY CAR. The only gap
                              that is off is the "Depth Gap" of rear of door edge and the start of the rear body of car. It was not flush. BTW
                              Since I inserted the "two sided sandpaper" it seem to be holding for now. Will get the proper grippers from
                              Corvette Central soon
                              . Thanks again>Larry
                              Larry,
                              Did you not like the original ones I posted in post #8? Reproductions aren't nearly as sturdy.
                              Leif
                              '67 Coupe L79, M21, C60, N14, N40, J50, A31, U69, A01, QB1
                              Top Flight 2017 Lone Star Regional

                              Comment

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