a very difficult fix 1965 - NCRS Discussion Boards

a very difficult fix 1965

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  • Bruce W.
    Very Frequent User
    • June 30, 1997
    • 358

    a very difficult fix 1965

    Hey guys,
    Well I know where the valve cover is leaking. The passenger side top front valve cover thread is stripped. I have been told the only way to fix this is to take off the head and take it to a machine where they will weld it and re tap the hole. As you know it takes a 1/4 20 bolt. I thought about a heli coil but the hole is to big for a 1/4 20.
    I am hoping that someone has an easier way? since I can't snug that bolt oil comes out of the cover. There are far better minds out there than I have. Anyone have a solution. This is a tough one. Appreciate your help.
    Bruce
  • David H.
    Extremely Frequent Poster
    • June 30, 2001
    • 1522

    #2
    Re: a very difficult fix 1965

    Originally posted by Bruce Wilcox (29338)
    Hey guys,
    Well I know where the valve cover is leaking. The passenger side top front valve cover thread is stripped. I have been told the only way to fix this is to take off the head and take it to a machine where they will weld it and re tap the hole. As you know it takes a 1/4 20 bolt. I thought about a heli coil but the hole is to big for a 1/4 20.
    I am hoping that someone has an easier way? since I can't snug that bolt oil comes out of the cover. There are far better minds out there than I have. Anyone have a solution. This is a tough one. Appreciate your help.
    Bruce
    Bruce

    NCRS or just something that works?

    Dave
    Judging Chairman Mid-Way USA (Kansas) Chapter

    Comment

    • James G.
      Very Frequent User
      • August 22, 2018
      • 800

      #3
      Re: a very difficult fix 1965

      can you tap it for 1/4" -28? If so you can probably find a fine threaded 1/4 NF with similar head markings.
      1/4 -28 NF takes a #3 drill - .213

      1/4 -20 NC takes a #7 Drill- .201

      Would .012 oversize clean up the hole well enough to give you adequate meat to tap?
      James A Groome
      1971 LT1 11130 - https://photos.app.goo.gl/zSoFz24JMPXw5Ffi9 - the black LT1
      1971 LT1 21783 - 3 STAR Preservation.- https://photos.app.goo.gl/wMRDJgmyDyAwc9Nh8 - Brandshatch Green LT1
      My first gen Camaro research http://www.camaros.org/forum/index.p...owposts;u=4337
      Posts on Yenko boards... https://www.yenko.net/forum/search.php?searchid=826453

      Comment

      • Joe L.
        Beyond Control Poster
        • February 1, 1988
        • 43211

        #4
        Re: a very difficult fix 1965

        Originally posted by Bruce Wilcox (29338)
        Hey guys,
        Well I know where the valve cover is leaking. The passenger side top front valve cover thread is stripped. I have been told the only way to fix this is to take off the head and take it to a machine where they will weld it and re tap the hole. As you know it takes a 1/4 20 bolt. I thought about a heli coil but the hole is to big for a 1/4 20.
        I am hoping that someone has an easier way? since I can't snug that bolt oil comes out of the cover. There are far better minds out there than I have. Anyone have a solution. This is a tough one. Appreciate your help.
        Bruce
        Bruce------

        You might be able to use a Time-Sert, Thread-Sert, or Keen-Sert if a Heli-Coil won't work.

        Here's another approach that some folks might scoff at but I think will work very well: clean the existing hole scrupulously with acetone or a similar solvent. Brake Clean should also work well. Make sure that any trace of oil is removed from the hole. Then, install JB Weld to completely fill the hole. Use regular JB Weld and not the fast setting. Let the JB Weld cure for at least a day, better longer. Last, drill and tap for 1/4-20.

        JB Weld is very strong and these bolts do not require a very high torque AND SHOULD NOT BE TORQUED TO A HIGHER THAN SPEC TORQUE.

        I think that this repair will last as long as you're going to need it to. But, if it does not, nothing that you've done will foreclose the opportunity to use other suggested repair methods.
        In Appreciation of John Hinckley

        Comment

        • Edward J.
          Extremely Frequent Poster
          • September 15, 2008
          • 6940

          #5
          Re: a very difficult fix 1965

          Bruce what about using a metric equivalent (6mm)they are slightly bigger I believe, not NCRS correct .being it’s on the top it really should not be a problem, just don’t over torque.If your car has aluminum covers you may have to get creative as the bolt head are generally 3/8th inch heads. Which means grinding the head to a 3/8ths head.
          New England chapter member, 63 Convert. 327/340- Chapter/Regional/national Top Flight, 72 coupe- chapter and regional Top Flight.

          Comment

          • Bruce W.
            Very Frequent User
            • June 30, 1997
            • 358

            #6
            Re: a very difficult fix 1965

            Joe, thanks for your help. JB weld sounds like a good idea!!
            Bruce

            Comment

            • Frank D.
              Expired
              • December 27, 2007
              • 2703

              #7
              Re: a very difficult fix 1965

              I've done the JB-Weld thing before in similar circumstances and it worked until I sold the car.
              In my case I stuffed a grease-laden bit of paper towel down the hole before tapping to catch most of the residue.
              Pull it out with tweezers when done.

              Comment

              • David H.
                Extremely Frequent Poster
                • June 30, 2001
                • 1522

                #8
                Re: a very difficult fix 1965

                Originally posted by Bruce Wilcox (29338)
                Joe, thanks for your help. JB weld sounds like a good idea!!
                Bruce
                Bruce

                If you're going to use JB Weld, JB Weld the Heli-Coil insert in place.

                Dave
                Judging Chairman Mid-Way USA (Kansas) Chapter

                Comment

                • Daniel T.
                  Frequent User
                  • July 5, 2019
                  • 34

                  #9
                  Re: a very difficult fix 1965

                  Can you drill/tap it deeper and use a longer bolt? I know finding a longer bolt with the same head might not be possible but it would be a better fix vs epoxy imo.
                  62 Corvette 327/340
                  63 Corvette SWC 327/300
                  67 Corvette Convertible L79
                  2006 Corvette Z06
                  2011 Corvette Grand Sport Convertible
                  also a couple 68 Camaro's

                  Comment

                  • Perry M.
                    Very Frequent User
                    • January 1, 1977
                    • 325

                    #10
                    Re: a very difficult fix 1965

                    Personally, I would tap the hole for a 1/4''-20 Heli-coil, even though it is somewhat too large, then use Joe's suggestion with the JB Weld. Stuff the Heli-coil with a clean piece of shop towel and thread the coil into the tapped hole. Don't use too much epoxy because you don' want to force the paper out. Let set until completely cured. Now you can clean the threads with a 1/4''-20 tap.

                    Comment

                    • Michael G.
                      Extremely Frequent Poster
                      • November 12, 2008
                      • 2157

                      #11
                      Re: a very difficult fix 1965

                      [QUOTE=Daniel Tonn (66026);901956]
                      Mike




                      1965 Black Ext / Silver Int. Coupe, L84 Duntov, French Lick, 2023 - Triple Diamond
                      1965 Red Ext / White & Red Int. Conv. - 327/250 AC Regional Top Flight.

                      Comment

                      • Patrick H.
                        Beyond Control Poster
                        • December 1, 1989
                        • 11642

                        #12
                        Re: a very difficult fix 1965

                        Originally posted by Joe Lucia (12484)
                        Bruce------
                        Here's another approach that some folks might scoff at but I think will work very well: clean the existing hole scrupulously with acetone or a similar solvent. Brake Clean should also work well. Make sure that any trace of oil is removed from the hole. Then, install JB Weld to completely fill the hole. Use regular JB Weld and not the fast setting. Let the JB Weld cure for at least a day, better longer. Last, drill and tap for 1/4-20.

                        JB Weld is very strong and these bolts do not require a very high torque AND SHOULD NOT BE TORQUED TO A HIGHER THAN SPEC TORQUE.

                        I think that this repair will last as long as you're going to need it to. But, if it does not, nothing that you've done will foreclose the opportunity to use other suggested repair methods.
                        Here's a tip to make this easier -

                        Clean as Joe suggests.
                        Clean one of your original bolts in a similar manner.
                        Apply Kiwi shoe polish to the original bolt, similar to waxing your car and then removing the wax. I usually do ti twice, but be sure to buff off ALL of the excess polish.
                        Apply JB Weld ( I use Devcon 10110, but not worth buying a whole can for this) inside the hole, using a toothpick to apply it to the outer edges (threads) of the hole.
                        Screw your bolt into the hole.
                        Use Q-tips BARELY wet with WD-40 to remove any JB that oozed out. They work great, but you don't need much WD-40.

                        After 24 hours, unscrew your bolt.

                        As Joe notes, you don't want to overtighten this bolt, but this is a LOT easier than trying to drill it out as per his method.
                        I use this trick on Corvettes as well as "things that go bang" in my other hobby, and it works.
                        You may want to see how much of the bolt normally sticks out as a pre-test so that you know how deep it will go when you screw it in.

                        Patrick
                        Vice-Chairman (West), Michigan Chapter NCRS
                        71 "deer modified" coupe
                        72 5-Star Bowtie / Duntov coupe. https://www.flickr.com/photos/124695...57649252735124
                        2008 coupe
                        Available stickers: Engine suffix code, exhaust tips & mufflers, shocks, AIR diverter valve broadcast code.

                        Comment

                        • Michael G.
                          Extremely Frequent Poster
                          • November 12, 2008
                          • 2157

                          #13
                          Re: a very difficult fix 1965

                          Ok, so I removed a normal 1/4-20 screw from one of the heads of my 65 327 emgine and inserted a #7 (13/64) (correct for a 1/4-20 thread) tap drill into the hole. The drill went more than .25 deeper than the standard screw. This means you can tap this hole 1/4 inch deeper and use a standard 1/4-20 screw that is 1.18-1.25 long without any problem. This should give you plenty of thread engagement without stripping at the normal recommended torque.

                          Your engine may be slightly different than mine, so I'd repeat this measurement with your actual parts before proceeding.
                          Mike




                          1965 Black Ext / Silver Int. Coupe, L84 Duntov, French Lick, 2023 - Triple Diamond
                          1965 Red Ext / White & Red Int. Conv. - 327/250 AC Regional Top Flight.

                          Comment

                          • Mark M.
                            Very Frequent User
                            • October 21, 2008
                            • 340

                            #14
                            Re: a very difficult fix 1965

                            Bruce, a method I've used a few times to get me out of a pinch (get a bolt to tighten enough with bad threads) is to stick enough strands of bare copper from thicker gauge wire in the hole. It takes a few tries to get the amount needed and shape it with a small bend at the top, L shape pieces, but it works. It's a temporary fix till a repair can be made but every time I've done it, I'm surprised how well it holds and the copper causes no further damage. An insert from my 1/4" heli coil shows .32" OD. More than 3/8" of material would be needed to drill and tap into.

                            Comment

                            • Donald O.
                              Extremely Frequent Poster
                              • May 31, 1990
                              • 1585

                              #15
                              The light at the end of the tunnel has been turned off.

                              Comment

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