Re: 64 L84 Coupe shop find
I had done the seal one the one side, but did not split the case apart.
I had done the seal one the one side, but did not split the case apart.
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Re: 64 L84 Coupe shop find
The machine shop is wasting no time. The block only required a hone (at .030 still), the crank only required polishing. I went with new rods (as suggested by Duke) and pistons that will get me in the 10.5:1 neighborhood for compression. We will see once the heads are done as to exactly where compression lands. Certainly, pump gas friendly with the fuel injection.
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Re: 64 L84 Coupe shop find
In between working on a couple of new cars I got in, I managed to start rewiring the front of the car and clean the headlight buckets. I do not know how these T3's are dated......can these be original?
Gauges have been checked, cleaned, and reassembled into the cluster
The firewall insulation and rebuilt heater box have been installed....
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Re: 64 L84 Coupe shop find
New England chapter member, 63 Convert. 327/340- Chapter/Regional/national Top Flight, 72 coupe- chapter and regional Top Flight.Comment
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Re: 64 L84 Coupe shop find
Tim,
While I cannot answer your question as to the dates on the headlights, I do want to thank you for keeping us informed on your progress. I also want to compliment you on your commitment to originality. Especially keeping what appears to be the original paint on your block. I did the same with my 1967 engine.
RickComment
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Re: 64 L84 Coupe shop find
In less than a month.....the long block is complete. On to the dyno next week!
I got my booster back from Mike Gibbons just in time. Great service! https://www.brakeboosters.com/
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Re: 64 L84 Coupe shop find
I've been working on the 64 a little bit, not much as I've been working on a couple of other cars I have in my shop (67 L79 Corvette and a 68 Z28).
I spoke to the engine builder today. He dyno'd the motor with a carb and intake (Victor Jr. and a 750 Holley) 407hp @5500 and still climbing. His dyno historically is rather stingy. I'll be curious to see most importantly what the torque curve is. He made a point which I agree with, no sense spinning the daylights out of it and tuning anything until the F.I. unit and appropriate distributor (along with manifolds and exhaust) are on it. In order to manage time and a schedule, I am not going to spend the dyno time with the F.I. unit. My plan was to install an LT-1 cam in this as I have previously. Well.........no one is really making the LT-1 cams anymore aside from Howard's (which was at least a 5 week lead time). Yeah, you can find NOS cams around.........for about 500 bucks give or take. So, we found a cam that is very similar. Perhaps a bit more advantageous given where the valve timing is.
A friend of mine is picking everything up for me week after next and is bringing it up to me (as the engine builder is 4 hours away)
The fuel injection unit should be done soon. Once it is, that will go on a mule car he has. He'll chassis dyno the mule and then road test it before shipping it back to me.
Crash has the tranny. Once I get that back from Eric, I can start to screw it all together.
I'll have to fit it in at my shop, as the work is starting to fire back up again. I have to get going on the 68 Z28 so I can get that up for sale, and the 67 Corvette has some detailing for the Bloomington Gold Benchmark judging.
TimComment
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Re: 64 L84 Coupe shop find
Hard to read, but I think this may work pretty well.
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Re: 64 L84 Coupe shop find
As is typical the dyno pull started at well over 3000 revs. We actually spend most of our driving time below this, so why not start the pulls at lower revs. I always request the start at no more than 1500 and even a big cam like the 30-30 should pull without protest from 1000.
A Dynojet inertia type dynos are best since they are the most common and your data can be compared to others using the SAE correction factor. I have emperically derived conversion factors to estimate SAE net and gross at the flywheel.
DukeComment
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Re: 64 L84 Coupe shop find
I agree with you Duke. I was fighting a couple of item's. First, I was not able to be involved with the dyno session as the engine builder is not letting anyone around for the dyno session's (understandable due to COVID). Secondly, it really does not pay to spend much time trying different sweeps due to the fact this has a 750 Holley on it and a Victor Jr. (as opposed the the F.I., original distributor, manifolds, etc.)
I agree with the engine builder is was not worth spending a bunch of time to work the engine all over the board (and thus tune it). It is distinctly different than it's intended form and application.
With the circumstances at hand, I just elected to break it in, run it, make a couple of power pulls, and just to make sure the combination was within reason of the goal.
I always have appreciated the practicality you profess in your suggestions and engine builds. Your logic and thus comments are bang on IMO.
It's a solid bullet that is ready to go. I suspect this will be a fun combination that will give the 6.70-15's a challenge.
TimComment
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Re: 64 L84 History Search Hovey-Dallas Chevrolet Gardena
Tim, The pinched purple wire being discussed is a new one.Meaning I never saw that before.
That black small connector is supposed to be plugged into the bottom of the burguny or maybe black micro switch. on drivers side. The purpose of that switch is control the operation of the starting solenoid under the FI unit. Solenoid is dichromate. The purple wiring harness plugs into the engine starting harness. Same place as the neutral wiring for a car with a automatic transmission. Its all for stating the engine.
Guessing it was a bear to start as is. John D.Comment
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Re: 64 L84 Coupe shop find
Tim,
Ken really knows what he is doing and those videos show exactly what the problems are and the correct fixes. I am impressed.Comment
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