Fuel Pump Swap

[Harry S.]

I may need to change the fuel pump on my 63 300hp car. I've changed them in the past without much effort. This car has factory A/C. Anyone like to comment about the herculean effort required with the compressor in the way? Is it all from the bottom? A little knowledge will help before I start.

Thanks.

[Domenic T.]

Re: Fuel Pump Swap

Harry,
I would have to say bottum. The important thing is getting the push rod on the cam lobe so it is at it's highest point. Then lock it gently with the bolt you have to remove to hold the push rod up. One finger holds the push rod and the other hand turns the bolt to hold it (the push rod). I know you are well read but I thought I would mention the procedure for other members following your thread. I guess it comes down to, "do you want to bend over" or lay on your back. The lift made things easier. To bad all us guys don't have one. Had to remove mine due to ARPT rules!!

Dom

[George C.]

Re: Fuel Pump Swap

Harry,
I do not have A/C, but I just took my fuel pump out today. I removed the alternator to make more room.
I cut the rubber line from the steel pipe from the top, and quickly capped it off with a short piece of hose with a plug in it.
I then was able to get at the two bolts with a swivel and a long extension.
Then went underneath to finish the removal.

Just curious where did you purchase your new pump?
Thank you,
George

[Don H.]

Re: Fuel Pump Swap

Harry,
Since I have done this WAY TOO many times, it is not easy. I usually carefully remove the compressor and move out of the way, trying to not disturb connections. I have done a '60 on a lift and did not like that method better (my opinion). Good luck, Don H.

[Dan A.]

Re: Fuel Pump Swap

Around 20 years ago we spent a week one day just on the edge of Medicine Hat Alberta. It was a hot holiday Monday and the fuel pump died on a '65 with factory A/C. Coasted along a gravel road leading to a busy truck stop. Made it about half way. Because of the holiday the pump had to be changed out on the side of the road. The pump came out ok from below with the car raised some with a jack. It wasn't coming out from above. Getting the pump back in was another story. The appearance of a flex socket finally got the job done.

So with a lift and a flex socket I have to think the task will be much shorter than the week I spent in Medicine Hat one day back in the eons of time.

[Frank D.]

Re: Fuel Pump Swap

I don't have A/C but I've changed the fuel pump on my 63 250hp car three times, I remove the RF tire and go in through the wheel arch and of course use the "long bolt" technique to hold the push rod up with the engine at TDC. Unless A/C makes it a lot more complicated, its not that bad... I did everything from underneath...

[Harry S.]

Re: Fuel Pump Swap

Thanks all, I'll try the bottom first as I have a lift.

[Mike M.]

Re: Fuel Pump Swap

I raise the c-2 to chest level on my lift, remove the RF wheel/tire, reposition the A-arm dust shield up out of the way, take a 1/4" drive ratchet with about a 18 to 22" extension, with a 1/4" drive flex socket,( the size of the socket varies as not all fuel pump fasters are original). As I re-install the new pump, I spread a thin film of 3-M strip caulk to the socket, to keep the faster in the socket, and go thru the area where the A-arm dust shield lives normally. I can get my left hand under the frame to hold the fuel pump while starting the faster with the ratchet/extension/socket with right hand. its a 15 minute job, having done MANY over the years.
On a return caravan from Cyprus gardens about 40 years ago, a fellow caravaner's 64 365 fuel pump took a crap in I-95 just north of Savanah . it took about 5 hours to change the pump laying on gravel as 18 wheelers sped by . don't think my ancient ass could pull that off nowadays. mike

[Joe L.]

Re: Fuel Pump Swap

A word of advice to all: fuel pumps are a regular maintenance item. They should be replaced BEFORE they fail. Failure of a fuel pump in a Corvette can be especially catastrophic. If the pump diaphragm decides to fail while the car is sitting in the garage, the fuel will siphon out of the fuel tank and onto the garage floor. Think this can't happen? I know FOR SURE that it can because once-upon-a-time it happened to me. I'll NEVER, EVER forget it.

[Frank D.]

Re: Fuel Pump Swap

I raise the c-2 to chest level on my lift, remove the RF wheel/tire, reposition the A-arm dust shield up out of the way, take a 1/4" drive ratchet with about a 18 to 22" extension, with a 1/4" drive flex socket,( the size of the socket varies as not all fuel pump fasters are original). As I re-install the new pump, I spread a thin film of 3-M strip caulk to the socket, to keep the faster in the socket, and go thru the area where the A-arm dust shield lives normally. I can get my left hand under the frame to hold the fuel pump while starting the faster with the ratchet/extension/socket with right hand. its a 15 minute job, having done MANY over the years.
On a return caravan from Cyprus gardens about 40 years ago, a fellow caravaner's 64 365 fuel pump took a crap in I-95 just north of Savanah . it took about 5 hours to change the pump laying on gravel as 18 wheelers sped by . don't think my ancient ass could pull that off nowadays. mike

Precisely how I do it. Except I have magnetic discs that go inside the sockets to hold the fasteners...

https://www.amazon.com/Lang-Tools-52...s%2C169&sr=8-1

That way you don't have to spend 1/2 hour getting that nasty 3M goo off the socket when the job is done. Harbor Freight sells the discs..

And it goes without saying you should use "line" wrenches to attach the fuel "hardlines" to the pump..

Decide before starting if you need to change the gasket under the block's push rod cover plate that sits under the fuel pump (I usually do).
If so, don't let the push rod fly out after removing the cover.. The "long bolt" technique to hold the rod should prevent that though.

[Richard L.]

Re: Fuel Pump Swap

Since these pumps seem to fail unexpectedly, I'd like to have a replacement one on hand for when I'm on a road trip. Is there a generic one I can source from either NAPA or Rock Auto that will fit all three of my C-2's ('63 300hp, '67 300hp, '67 427/435)?
Thanks in advance.
Ric

[John L.]

[Frank D.]

Re: Fuel Pump Swap

I use Paragon rebuild kits...

AirTek makes a viable replacement pump (at least for the 63), IIRC Carter might also...
The AirTek pumps have a systemic problem with actuator rod pin "walk out" - which they steadfastly refuse to fix for some inordinate reason..

So, many design "keepers" to keep the pin in place..these are the ones I fashioned (before I drilled holes for the mounting bolts)..
The last picture is an example of the "walk out" issue..

I ran with this until I found a correct AC-logo 4657, no "frog pad" fuel pump to put on the car..

[Kent S.]

Re: Fuel Pump Swap

A couple of comments - I think I remember that the fuel pump rod is only in the upmost position when the piston is at TDC on number 6 cylinder so you can't just depend on the timing mark on the dampener since it comes around on number 1 and number 6 Also you need to install the longer bolt before you take out the old pump - my experience is that trying to raise the rod with your finger to then install the bolt is all but impossible.

[Harry S.]

Re: Fuel Pump Swap

Thanks all. I'll give it a go. Now taking off the wheel on a four post lift will be interesting.