Heat riser valve clocking - NCRS Discussion Boards

Heat riser valve clocking

Collapse
X
 
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts
  • John F.
    Extremely Frequent Poster
    • March 23, 2008
    • 2396

    Heat riser valve clocking

    I believe my heat riser valve is clocked wrong. See two pictures attached. From underneath, I think I need to rotate CCW. Correct!
    Attached Files
  • John F.
    Extremely Frequent Poster
    • March 23, 2008
    • 2396

    #2
    Re: Heat riser valve clocking

    I got two nuts off and one stud all the way out. Now the header pipe doesn't want to come all the way past the studs. Surely , I don't need to disassemble one side of the exhaust system to get it to drop, do I? Or take off the right side manifold? Any easy ways?

    I loosened the the clamp next to the cross-brace and gained a little wiggle room and pried down a bit. It is now off and soaking in Evaporust (my favorite rust remover). The riser was a little frozen up due to being installed wrong and not allowing it to work as it should.
    Last edited by John F.; July 5, 2018, 11:35 AM. Reason: Added paragraph

    Comment

    • Wayne L.
      Very Frequent User
      • September 30, 1981
      • 233

      #3
      Re: Heat riser valve clocking

      I removed the right side exhaust manifold when I had the same issue.

      Comment

      • Paul D.
        Very Frequent User
        • September 30, 1996
        • 491

        #4
        Re: Heat riser valve clocking

        Exhaust pipe looks relatively new and rust free. Would removing RH pipe and muffler not be easier than manifold?

        Comment

        • Bob R.
          Extremely Frequent Poster
          • June 30, 2002
          • 1595

          #5
          Re: Heat riser valve clocking

          It's been a while since I last worked on that but I believe removing the bolts from the forward exhaust pipe and just pull it down below the manifold bolts. The exhaust system had enough movement in it to allow the removal and replacement of the heat riser. I might have loosened the center exhaust hanger a little also. I definitely didn't remove anything completely.

          Comment

          • Edward J.
            Extremely Frequent Poster
            • September 15, 2008
            • 6940

            #6
            Re: Heat riser valve clocking

            John, See if you can remove the studs on manifold first. then the heat riser can be rotated. take a couple of 3/8 nuts and lock them together and use the top nut with a open end wrench.
            New England chapter member, 63 Convert. 327/340- Chapter/Regional/national Top Flight, 72 coupe- chapter and regional Top Flight.

            Comment

            • Gene M.
              Extremely Frequent Poster
              • March 31, 1985
              • 4232

              #7
              Re: Heat riser valve clocking

              Correct flange, nuts and correct length studs would help your situation.

              Comment

              • John F.
                Extremely Frequent Poster
                • March 23, 2008
                • 2396

                #8
                Re: Heat riser valve clocking

                Thank you all for the advice. I got the frozen up heat riser off by loosening the clamp near the cross brace and a little prying and soaked it all day in Evaporust. See pics of results. I have new gaskets to pick up at O'Reilly's tomorrow.
                Attached Files

                Comment

                • Brad Hillhouse (37766)

                  #9
                  Re: Heat riser valve clocking

                  John, it is fun and interesting to put a bolt in a vice and put that heat riser on the bolt and then hit it with a heat gun on high heat and then just no heat with fan to watch it operate and see how it reacts to cool, warm, hot exhaust hitting it in operation on the car.

                  Brad Hillhouse
                  #37766

                  Comment

                  • Paul D.
                    Very Frequent User
                    • September 30, 1996
                    • 491

                    #10
                    Re: Heat riser valve clocking

                    Back in the late 70's and early 80's I worked in a Chevy dealership and GM offered "Heat riser valve lubricant" in a spray can. Every tech had a can on his bench, but used it primarily as a rust penetrant. It worked great! Chip.

                    Comment

                    • Patrick H.
                      Beyond Control Poster
                      • November 30, 1989
                      • 11616

                      #11
                      Re: Heat riser valve clocking

                      Originally posted by Paul Drennan (28344)
                      Back in the late 70's and early 80's I worked in a Chevy dealership and GM offered "Heat riser valve lubricant" in a spray can. Every tech had a can on his bench, but used it primarily as a rust penetrant. It worked great! Chip.
                      It's now GM 88862628 Rust Penetrant and Inhibitor
                      Vice-Chairman (West), Michigan Chapter NCRS
                      71 "deer modified" coupe
                      72 5-Star Bowtie / Duntov coupe. https://www.flickr.com/photos/124695...57649252735124
                      2008 coupe
                      Available stickers: Engine suffix code, exhaust tips & mufflers, shocks, AIR diverter valve broadcast code.

                      Comment

                      • John F.
                        Extremely Frequent Poster
                        • March 23, 2008
                        • 2396

                        #12
                        Re: Heat riser valve clocking

                        I ended up tying the valve open.

                        Comment

                        • Joe L.
                          Beyond Control Poster
                          • January 31, 1988
                          • 43198

                          #13
                          Re: Heat riser valve clocking

                          Originally posted by John Ftacek (48800)
                          I ended up tying the valve open.
                          John------


                          That's the best approach. For non-judged cars, removing the valve and installing a spacer (as used for FI applications) works well.
                          In Appreciation of John Hinckley

                          Comment

                          Working...
                          Searching...Please wait.
                          An unexpected error was returned: 'Your submission could not be processed because you have logged in since the previous page was loaded.

                          Please push the back button and reload the previous window.'
                          An unexpected error was returned: 'Your submission could not be processed because the token has expired.

                          Please push the back button and reload the previous window.'
                          An internal error has occurred and the module cannot be displayed.
                          There are no results that meet this criteria.
                          Search Result for "|||"