Harmonic balancer bolt - NCRS Discussion Boards

Harmonic balancer bolt

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  • Mark E.
    Extremely Frequent Poster
    • March 31, 1993
    • 4503

    #16
    Re: Harmonic balancer bolt

    I believe that's correct, Dom. Cast cranks are generally a ductile iron, while forged cranks begin as a cast carbon steel ingot then go through the forging process.
    Mark Edmondson
    Dallas, Texas
    Texas Chapter

    1970 Coupe, Donnybrooke Green, Light Saddle LS5 M20 A31 C60 G81 N37 N40 UA6 U79
    1993 Coupe, 40th Anniversary, 6-speed, PEG 1, FX3, CD, Bronze Top

    Comment

    • Mark E.
      Extremely Frequent Poster
      • March 31, 1993
      • 4503

      #17
      Re: Harmonic balancer bolt

      I didn't know some harmonic balancers do not have a retaining bolt.

      How are they installed? It seems this might be difficult with a tight press fit.
      Mark Edmondson
      Dallas, Texas
      Texas Chapter

      1970 Coupe, Donnybrooke Green, Light Saddle LS5 M20 A31 C60 G81 N37 N40 UA6 U79
      1993 Coupe, 40th Anniversary, 6-speed, PEG 1, FX3, CD, Bronze Top

      Comment

      • Richard G.
        Extremely Frequent Poster
        • July 31, 1984
        • 1715

        #18
        Attached Files

        Comment

        • Steven B.
          Very Frequent User
          • April 11, 2012
          • 233

          #19
          Re: Harmonic balancer bolt

          For what it's worth, I came across this article that does a reasonably good job at addressing cast vs. forged crankshafts. I thought that tuftriding and nitriding could both be used in surface hardening. Now I'm not so sure. I have a forged crank in a 350 that was out of a C-60 series mid 70's truck. It was the same crank that was used in high performance applications to the best of my knowledge. I was aware that grinding would remove the nitriding or tuftriding because of the shallow surface penetration of the hardening process.

          Steve

          car craft takes a closer look at How to Pick a Crank Shaft

          Comment

          • Richard G.
            Extremely Frequent Poster
            • July 31, 1984
            • 1715

            #20
            Re: Harmonic balancer bolt

            In Tuftriding, the crank is immersed in hot cyanide compounds, creating a tough, resistant surface that improves fatigue resistance.
            It is a good bet that this process is no longer used because of the environmental issues.

            Comment

            • E R.
              Expired
              • November 30, 1987
              • 17

              #21
              Re: Harmonic balancer bolt

              Thanks everyone for the help it was a learning experience
              EV

              Comment

              • Gerald C.
                Extremely Frequent Poster
                • June 30, 1987
                • 1276

                #22
                Re: Harmonic balancer bolt

                What would be the size of the bolt that I would use on my 63 300 hp harmonic balancer if I wanted to install the bolt for engine turning manually purposes?

                Thanks

                Comment

                • Timothy B.
                  Extremely Frequent Poster
                  • April 30, 1983
                  • 5178

                  #23
                  Re: Harmonic balancer bolt

                  The factory bolt size for the drilled cranks is grade eight 7/16x20 (fine thread) and length approx 1.5". It's the same bolt that holds the steering damper to the relay rod on the C2 cars.

                  Comment

                  • Joe L.
                    Beyond Control Poster
                    • January 31, 1988
                    • 43196

                    #24
                    Re: Harmonic balancer bolt

                    Originally posted by Gerald Coia (11656)
                    What would be the size of the bolt that I would use on my 63 300 hp harmonic balancer if I wanted to install the bolt for engine turning manually purposes?

                    Thanks
                    Gerald-------

                    Drilling and tapping for a center bolt is, in my opinion, a machine shop operation. I would not attempt to do it with the crank installed in the engine or, even, with the crank out of the engine on a do-it-yourself basis.
                    In Appreciation of John Hinckley

                    Comment

                    • Richard G.
                      Extremely Frequent Poster
                      • July 31, 1984
                      • 1715

                      #25
                      Re: Harmonic balancer bolt

                      7/16 20 x 2 1/4 Grade 5 with Hole through head for what appears to be provisions for wiring to retain the bolt. (never used in this application)
                      1 3/4 OD x 17/32 ID x 1/4 Thick Washer

                      Comment

                      • Joe R.
                        Extremely Frequent Poster
                        • February 28, 2002
                        • 1356

                        #26
                        Re: Harmonic balancer bolt

                        Originally posted by Joe Lucia (12484)
                        Gerald-------

                        Drilling and tapping for a center bolt is, in my opinion, a machine shop operation. I would not attempt to do it with the crank installed in the engine or, even, with the crank out of the engine on a do-it-yourself basis.
                        I agree with Joe Lucia that drilling the crank with the engine in the car is not ideal. However, several years ago I wanted to drill and tap the 300 hp crank in my '67, but the engine was in the car and I had no other reason to remove the engine.

                        I made a simple drill guide out of a block of hardwood with a 1.25" hole in one end (cut using a Forstner bit) to fit over the crank snout, and a 1/8" hole in the other end to fit over a long 1/8" drill for making a pilot hole. After the pilot hole was drilled, I enlarged the 1/8" guide hole to the 25/64" size for a 7/16" tap, and then drilled the crank with the larger drill. After that I used a tapered tap to cut the threads.

                        Recently I learned from a friend that there are two available fixtures kits that use a similar approach:

                        Use this tool to help drill the snout of cranks on 194 230 250 engines. Also works on SBC 283 327 as well for 235 261 The cranks are not drilled from the factory and adding the 7/16 bolt hole will aid you on installation of the balancer and retention of it. Precision made to fit on the end of the crank. The fillings drop out the side while drilling. A drill bushing is used for perfect alignment of the drill during drilling. This procedure can be performed on a assembled engine. The tool will fit on the snout. Be sure to plug the seal hole with a rag and direct the slot to the down position for chip discharge.


                        283 and 327 CID Chevy Engines Crank Shaft drill and tap fixture tool kit 7/16 If your crankshaft is not out of the engine and can not be drilled and tapped in a crank shaft lath this very handy tool lets even the novice at home machinist precision drill and tap the crank shaft snout on the 283 and 327 Chevrolet inline


                        The only thing that I don't like about the first one is that it does not use a pilot hole, but an insert could easily be made to support the pilot hole drill. The forged crank material is fairly hard to drill, and I think the pilot hole helps with drilling the 25/64" hole.

                        The second one above uses a pilot hole but costs more.

                        Comment

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