C3 Power Steering - Is This Right???

[Don L.]

Hi all,

Today, during my season shakedown, I noticed a wobbly power steering pulley. On disassembly, I found that the key slot was damaged (widened) to the point I can't use it anymore. I found a NOS pulley but I'm worried about the pump's shaft. There's what looks to be a chamfer on the shaft, just behind the key. See attached photo. Is the shaft supposed to be chamfered here or do I have a damaged shaft too?


IMG_0266.jpg

Any advice is appreciated. Thanks!

[Joe L.]

Re: C3 Power Steering - Is This Right???

Hi all,

Today, during my season shakedown, I noticed a wobbly power steering pulley. On disassembly, I found that the key slot was damaged (widened) to the point I can't use it anymore. I found a NOS pulley but I'm worried about the pump's shaft. There's what looks to be a chamfer on the shaft, just behind the key. See attached photo. Is the shaft supposed to be chamfered here or do I have a damaged shaft too?




Any advice is appreciated. Thanks!

Don------


Yes, that part of the shaft should be chamfered. However, I can't tell if yours is damaged.

[Don L.]

Re: C3 Power Steering - Is This Right???

Thanks for the quick reply, Joe!

I just laid a scale parallel to the shaft, and I'd say the depth of the chamfer (laterally) is approx 3/64" to 1/32". Does this help you to know if I have damaged the shaft?

I don't see any irregularities in the chamfer surface if that helps....

[Joe L.]

Re: C3 Power Steering - Is This Right???

Thanks for the quick reply, Joe!

I just laid a scale parallel to the shaft, and I'd say the depth of the chamfer (laterally) is approx 3/64" to 1/32". Does this help you to know if I have damaged the shaft?

I don't see any irregularities in the chamfer surface if that helps....

Don------


I think it's OK.

[Gary J.]

Re: C3 Power Steering - Is This Right???

If the shaft is damaged you can buy a just the pump only. You will to separate it from the housing and it should have a new keyway on the shaft. Would also a good time to insepect hoses also and replace.

[Don L.]

Re: C3 Power Steering - Is This Right???

Thanks Gary. It almost broke my heart but I replaced the ORIGINAL hoses from the pump to the control valve a couple winters ago as part of my power steering system restoration. I'm now afraid that I failed to properly torque the pulley and this is what caused my pulley failure. If the pulley is 1" deep, I'd say that I now have approx 1/8" of slot length on each end of the hole that are still at the proper width and in between, the once narrow slot is about four times wider than it's supposed to be. I'm thinking that the nut backed off, causing wobble, which in turn, ate the pulley up. Maybe?

The good news is that I found what looks to be a nice NOS pulley and I can put it on and be done. What still concerns me is that I am fairly sure I torqued the pulley nut to spec when I put the system back together. Can you imagine how much more closely I'll be watching that pulley nut after I put it back together this time?

[Terry M.]

Re: C3 Power Steering - Is This Right???

Thanks Gary. It almost broke my heart but I replaced the ORIGINAL hoses from the pump to the control valve a couple winters ago as part of my power steering system restoration. I'm now afraid that I failed to properly torque the pulley and this is what caused my pulley failure. If the pulley is 1" deep, I'd say that I now have approx 1/8" of slot length on each end of the hole that are still at the proper width and in between, the once narrow slot is about four times wider than it's supposed to be. I'm thinking that the nut backed off, causing wobble, which in turn, ate the pulley up. Maybe?

The good news is that I found what looks to be a nice NOS pulley and I can put it on and be done. What still concerns me is that I am fairly sure I torqued the pulley nut to spec when I put the system back together. Can you imagine how much more closely I'll be watching that pulley nut after I put it back together this time?

Don
I suggest that once you install the pulley and torque the nut you mark the nut and pulley with a witness mark that bridges both so that any movement between the nut and pulley will be obvious. I have used liquid white out in the past, but I just saw that Aircraft Spruce has a full set of colored pens designed just for this purpose. Their set contains more pens that both of us will use in our lifetimes. I think the white out will work fine for you and once you assure yourself there is no movement between the two items it can easily be removed.

[Patrick H.]

Re: C3 Power Steering - Is This Right???

Don
I suggest that once you install the pulley and torque the nut you mark the nut and pulley with a witness mark that bridges both so that any movement between the nut and pulley will be obvious. I have used liquid white out in the past, but I just saw that Aircraft Spruce has a full set of colored pens designed just for this purpose. Their set contains more pens that both of us will use in our lifetimes. I think the white out will work fine for you and once you assure yourself there is no movement between the two items it can easily be removed.

I've had a bear of a time removing white-out from some items.
A nice Sharpie, silver being my preferred color, works well and can be removed often with isopropyl alcohol.

[Joe L.]

Re: C3 Power Steering - Is This Right???

Thanks Gary. It almost broke my heart but I replaced the ORIGINAL hoses from the pump to the control valve a couple winters ago as part of my power steering system restoration. I'm now afraid that I failed to properly torque the pulley and this is what caused my pulley failure. If the pulley is 1" deep, I'd say that I now have approx 1/8" of slot length on each end of the hole that are still at the proper width and in between, the once narrow slot is about four times wider than it's supposed to be. I'm thinking that the nut backed off, causing wobble, which in turn, ate the pulley up. Maybe?

The good news is that I found what looks to be a nice NOS pulley and I can put it on and be done. What still concerns me is that I am fairly sure I torqued the pulley nut to spec when I put the system back together. Can you imagine how much more closely I'll be watching that pulley nut after I put it back together this time?

Don------


The original nut was a self-locking type nut. The shaft pulley seating surface is slightly tapered which usually controls how far the pulley will seat on the shaft.

[Don L.]

Re: C3 Power Steering - Is This Right???

Don
I suggest that once you install the pulley and torque the nut you mark the nut and pulley with a witness mark that bridges both so that any movement between the nut and pulley will be obvious. I have used liquid white out in the past, but I just saw that Aircraft Spruce has a full set of colored pens designed just for this purpose. Their set contains more pens that both of us will use in our lifetimes. I think the white out will work fine for you and once you assure yourself there is no movement between the two items it can easily be removed.

Good idea. Thanks. I have access to some parts marking pens. I'll use one of them. Once I'm comfortable that it's tight, I'll wipe the ink/paint off with solvent..